What can be done with a 93 L Series?

[El_Freddo]

Not only are they allowed to be wired with the high beams, they must be. The idea is that wherever you'd have high beam off, the driving lights are off as well so they don't blind anyone. Then when you've got the road to yourself, flick all the lights on.

And you need a switch in the cab so you can over-ride the system and not have them work, it's easy to do!

Yes, bright lights will blind, confuse and sometimes stop a kangaroo. But that's the roo's problem, not mine - I'd rather have as much light as possible, then work on dodging or flattening (depending on which car I'm in) whatever beasts may appear.

I wouldn't worry about the blinding of kangaroos - they're good when they stand still. You need to worry about them when they're moving. I always try to get the car in front of them as you'll sustain less damage than if you collect 70-110kg of animal at speed with the front end. Kiss your subi goodbye in that case.

Cheers

Bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

And you need a switch in the cab so you can over-ride the system and not have them work, it's easy to do!



I wouldn't worry about the blinding of kangaroos - they're good when they stand still. You need to worry about them when they're moving. I always try to get the car in front of them as you'll sustain less damage than if you collect 70-110kg of animal at speed with the front end. Kiss your subi goodbye in that case.

Cheers

Bennie

That's what I thought... though dimming your hi-beams plus toggling driving lights sounds a complicated if the traffic is busy the other direction.

You try to get a car in front of them? I had to think about that one for a few seconds.

I try to do the same. I don't understand why most people driving on a country road at night want to drive the speed limit. Some of the rural roads here are 110km/h. If I'm by myself and it's pitch black, I find 80-85 km/h a comfortable speed, so I can scan back and forth for critters near the road. If someone wants to pass, I let them, then if they are not passing the speed limit, I'll tail them by 50-150m so that THEY are the "first line of defence" against roos. (or farm dogs? )

Some things Australians say are perfectly-good Australian English, but they are either uncommon word-useage or not good in the grammar I'm used to from Canada/USA. I'm trying to learn Aussie English as fast as I can. I also realized I made an Australian typo "tire" instead of tyre, but it took me a day to remember.

[2nd Hand Yank]

Not only are they allowed to be wired with the high beams, they must be. The idea is that wherever you'd have high beam off, the driving lights are off as well so they don't blind anyone. Then when you've got the road to yourself, flick all the lights on.

I've just never seen them used on the road before. Maybe because I'm a city-boy? I like being in the country though.

Yes, bright lights will blind, confuse and sometimes stop a kangaroo. But that's the roo's problem, not mine - I'd rather have as much light as possible, then work on dodging or flattening (depending on which car I'm in) whatever beasts may appear.

Good point; better they stay put so you know what they're doing.

Do any "driving lights" put out light sideways, maybe a 45 degree angle from your direction? I'd like to be able to see 10-20 m either side of the road. It would also help when you turn the wheel. I find it kinda dumb that the automotive industry's standard is to not provide a driver much of a view at night while turning a corner.

Both. The idea is to use the standard wiring to trigger a new relay, which switches nice, new, good quality power wires to the lights. There are instructions floating around if you're not sure.

It'd be interesting to see if that's already been done. My subi has quite a few modifications. The radiator and A/C condensor is protected with "fly-screen" behind the stock grill. I didn't see that on the other L Series I looked at.

I was more thinking about keeping the odd size away from the steering, brakes and powered diff. Probably doesn't make a lot of difference.

So you mean having tyres on the rear being larger than on the front?
Does anyone here do that? I'm wondering what's the advantage, since the back end is lighter... unless you pull trailer a lot. Hmm...

Wheels hanging outboard of the guards is due to the offset (backspacing) of the commonly available 14" wheels. You'll have the same problem with any size tyres on those rims. Get rubber flares to make it all legal.

More shopping from 4wd shops?

4wd accessory shops. Or maybe you could make one if you're a master seamstress

Ah, so they can be bought.

Show us some pics of the car, including the lift kit. It'll probably be a 2" body lift. Suspension lifting is uncommon with these cars.

Dane.

I'll try to get around to it sometime soon.

[El_Freddo]

That's what I thought... though dimming your hi-beams plus toggling driving lights sounds a complicated if the traffic is busy the other direction.

No, the toggle switch is a part of the wiring system for the high beams - they're still triggered by the standard column mounted stalk but you have an override switch to turn them off for what ever reason. Here's a diagram of how to wire you driving lights with the L series:

You try to get a car in front of them? I had to think about that one for a few seconds.

I try to do the same. I don't understand why most people driving on a country road at night want to drive the speed limit. Some of the rural roads here are 110km/h. If I'm by myself and it's pitch black, I find 80-85 km/h a comfortable speed, so I can scan back and forth for critters near the road. If someone wants to pass, I let them, then if they are not passing the speed limit, I'll tail them by 50-150m so that THEY are the "first line of defence" against roos. (or farm dogs? )

Fair call. I usually find it better being the first car - you stir up the roos for who ever is behind you. Plus a sweet exhaust that opens up some of that subi beat makes things even better. Personally, I'm one of those locals doing the speed limit. If I hit a roo directly at 85 or 100km/h my car will be a write off anyway - so why piss fart around when you need to be somewhere? Plus the extra speed is great for getting in front of the roos in general.

As for not seeing driving light being used on the road before - the one's mounted on my roo bar in the sig pic below are in a legal position but not legal due to having an odd number of lights. I don't know why this is the case but apparently it is, I need either 2 or 4 lights
If you're talking about the roof mounted driving lights these are "offroad use only". Yeah right! Too much bonnet glare anyway!

If you mount some lights that shine off the side of the road you're going to find it very annoying when travelling along those country road that had a lot of roadside vegetation - you'll light that up like a christmas tree and not actually see down the road with the forward facing lights...

The tyre of a different size on the rear: What dane is saying is that if you have to use the smaller spare tyre make sure you put it on the REAR only as there is no steering or drive going to those tyres when onroad. DO NOT use 4wd with the smaller tyre, it will cause issues and could lead to a broken gearbox!

Cheers

Bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

No, the toggle switch is a part of the wiring system for the high beams - they're still triggered by the standard column mounted stalk but you have an override switch to turn them off for what ever reason. Here's a diagram of how to wire you driving lights with the L series:

thanks.

I'm not sure if I want to invest in them yet though.

Fair call. I usually find it better being the first car - you stir up the roos for who ever is behind you. Plus a sweet exhaust that opens up some of that subi beat makes things even better. Personally, I'm one of those locals doing the speed limit. If I hit a roo directly at 85 or 100km/h my car will be a write off anyway - so why piss fart around when you need to be somewhere? Plus the extra speed is great for getting in front of the roos in general.

Getting in front?

Roos must have a radically different temperment than white-tail deer.
I'm used to seeing deer in rural areas and they hardly move when you pass by them at 90 km/h, and they're only standing say 10 metres from the road. Mostly they could care less about passing cars.

My driving strategy for avoiding wildlife is all out of whack.

Does anyone use those animal whistles with good results?
I've heard some say it attacts certain animals; they wonder what the sound is.

As for not seeing driving light being used on the road before - the one's mounted on my roo bar in the sig pic below are in a legal position but not legal due to having an odd number of lights. I don't know why this is the case but apparently it is, I need either 2 or 4 lights
If you're talking about the roof mounted driving lights these are "offroad use only". Yeah right! Too much bonnet glare anyway!

If you mount some lights that shine off the side of the road you're going to find it very annoying when travelling along those country road that had a lot of roadside vegetation - you'll light that up like a christmas tree and not actually see down the road with the forward facing lights...

I've never seen driving lights (that weren't offroad only; frequently capped to protect the housings while not in use) mounted in that position before coming to Australia.

Roof rack lights = bonnet glare? Lol.
Sounds like a roof rack isn't such a great idea.

Does installing driving lights have a noticeable effect obstructing the radiator's air-flow?

The tyre of a different size on the rear: What dane is saying is that if you have to use the smaller spare tyre make sure you put it on the REAR only as there is no steering or drive going to those tyres when onroad. DO NOT use 4wd with the smaller tyre, it will cause issues and could lead to a broken gearbox!

Cheers

Bennie

Ah, so it was a warning to try to use my oversize spare in the rear?
Rotate a back tyre to the front and the spare to the back?

Thanks

[El_Freddo]

I'm not sure if I want to invest in them yet though.

That's fine, my point of posting that image was to try and show how it was wired in to help you understand how it was done properly (read legally).

Getting in front?

Roos must have a radically different temperment than white-tail deer.
I'm used to seeing deer in rural areas and they hardly move when you pass by them at 90 km/h, and they're only standing say 10 metres from the road. Mostly they could care less about passing cars.

If you spook a roo it will move. If you keep your car "balanced" they will be fine unless something else spooks them... When I say balanced I mean a neutral engine tone so no slowing or speeding up. The only time you'll really have trouble seeing them is when they're on the move, typically in 3s, and moving fast through paddocks, vegetation and across roads.

Does anyone use those animal whistles with good results?
I've heard some say it attacts certain animals; they wonder what the sound is.

I think someone did a study on them that showed it did not deter roo's specifically - rather it would spook them at times or had no effect at all on moving them away from the approaching vehicle.

Roof rack lights = bonnet glare? Lol.
Sounds like a roof rack isn't such a great idea.

Bonnet glare from the light that shines on it from the lights above... It's illegal in oz to have lights mounted above the height of your vision in the driver's seat.

Does installing driving lights have a noticeable effect obstructing the radiator's air-flow?

Can do. Depends on how big they are, where they're mounted, how many you have in the air scoop area of the radiator. Most modern cars since the 70's seem to scoop most of the cooling air from below the radiator grill.

Ah, so it was a warning to try to use my oversize spare in the rear?
Rotate a back tyre to the front and the spare to the back?

Correct. But your spare would be undersized...

Cheers

Bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

That's fine, my point of posting that image was to try and show how it was wired in to help you understand how it was done properly (read legally).





If you spook a roo it will move. If you keep your car "balanced" they will be fine unless something else spooks them... When I say balanced I mean a neutral engine tone so no slowing or speeding up. The only time you'll really have trouble seeing them is when they're on the move, typically in 3s, and moving fast through paddocks, vegetation and across roads.



I think someone did a study on them that showed it did not deter roo's specifically - rather it would spook them at times or had no effect at all on moving them away from the approaching vehicle.



Bonnet glare from the light that shines on it from the lights above... It's illegal in oz to have lights mounted above the height of your vision in the driver's seat.



Can do. Depends on how big they are, where they're mounted, how many you have in the air scoop area of the radiator. Most modern cars since the 70's seem to scoop most of the cooling air from below the radiator grill.



Correct. But your spare would be undersized...

Cheers

Bennie

Thanks for posting. Maybe shopping online for a driving light kit would be better/cheaper.

Our deer must be more settled than roos. They expect a certain level of noise but are smart enough to tell when a person is walking towards them. (extremely hard to track on foot while hunting, or just walking up for a better look) I think people on foot scares them a lot more than in a car. That there could be the hazard? Deer are unafraid of cars?

Pair of 3's? Thanks.
I just liked 80 km/h because it felt like I'd be able to stop or slow down in a reasonable distance if a mob was on the road.

no whistle got it

I never really liked roof lights anyways

I'll see how big the opening under the bumper is

My spare can't be undersized.
It's 195/70R-14 and the rest of my tires are 185/70R-14.
That's the way the used Subaru was sold to me.