L Series 5MT shify rod bushes/bolts .
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
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L Series 5MT shify rod bushes/bolts .
Hi all , was back at Pick and Payless today for a spare set of L DR 5MT shift rod and stay brace/rod .
Only one car had them (box gone) and the console was out so an easy snaffle .
I removed the shift rod from the gearstick itself to check over the bushes and was amazed at how much clearance there is between the steel bush and the bolt itself .
I know people here say that replacing the bushes makes a huge difference and it would want to judging by the play in this one joint .
The gearbox end of the shift rod has two of these joints set at 90 degrees to each other and I've noticed that Subaru set the inner one so it can't be removed without drifting out the roll pin that retains the "cup" end on the selectors striker rod . I suppose this is so that the bolt can't fall out if the nut goes postal but a dab of nut lock would ensure that anyway .
Does anyone have the part numbers for the nylon and rubber bushings and is it usual to replace the inner steel bush too ?
BTW the reason I want the rods themselves is because my stay rod may have been shortened a bit too much for the L AWD transmission conversion . It's gearbox end mounting bracket has been spaced back which helped but I think the answer may be another stay rod narrowed and shortened a little less and a slightly shortened shift rod to pull the stick a little further forward .
Regardless it has too much play in the joints so may as well do it all in one go .
Cheers A .
Only one car had them (box gone) and the console was out so an easy snaffle .
I removed the shift rod from the gearstick itself to check over the bushes and was amazed at how much clearance there is between the steel bush and the bolt itself .
I know people here say that replacing the bushes makes a huge difference and it would want to judging by the play in this one joint .
The gearbox end of the shift rod has two of these joints set at 90 degrees to each other and I've noticed that Subaru set the inner one so it can't be removed without drifting out the roll pin that retains the "cup" end on the selectors striker rod . I suppose this is so that the bolt can't fall out if the nut goes postal but a dab of nut lock would ensure that anyway .
Does anyone have the part numbers for the nylon and rubber bushings and is it usual to replace the inner steel bush too ?
BTW the reason I want the rods themselves is because my stay rod may have been shortened a bit too much for the L AWD transmission conversion . It's gearbox end mounting bracket has been spaced back which helped but I think the answer may be another stay rod narrowed and shortened a little less and a slightly shortened shift rod to pull the stick a little further forward .
Regardless it has too much play in the joints so may as well do it all in one go .
Cheers A .
- bobbyjimmy
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- FROG
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part time 4wd or full time
and year model?????
FAST GIVES ME ABOUT 15 DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS IS WHY I ASK
and year model?????
FAST GIVES ME ABOUT 15 DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS IS WHY I ASK
GRAB THE VIN FROM DONOR VEHICLES
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- discopotato03
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Fang I think our idea of getting the stay bar length right is half the fight .
If I had my time over again I'd have stood both an AWD and a PT box on their noses (on wooden blocks so they don't stand on the input shaft) and measured the difference in length where the stay rod mount faces are . If you had an unbent exhaust hanger bracket you could measure its offset because it mounts to the exhaust pipe itself in the same location . Once the difference is known the PT type stay rod could be shortened by the same amount and locate the shift mechanism where it would be in a factory AWD car .
The reason why its length is important is because it literally is the bottom plate and the base mount for the gear stick itself .
There are two ways to go about getting the distance between the gearstick and the gearboxes linkage right . You can remove the shift rod itself and lengthen/shorten or remove the gearstick and "move" the hole where the shift rod attaches to it .
Anyway if we can get Ellies two rods working well I'll post the lengths so that others have a base line to work from .
Cheers A .
If I had my time over again I'd have stood both an AWD and a PT box on their noses (on wooden blocks so they don't stand on the input shaft) and measured the difference in length where the stay rod mount faces are . If you had an unbent exhaust hanger bracket you could measure its offset because it mounts to the exhaust pipe itself in the same location . Once the difference is known the PT type stay rod could be shortened by the same amount and locate the shift mechanism where it would be in a factory AWD car .
The reason why its length is important is because it literally is the bottom plate and the base mount for the gear stick itself .
There are two ways to go about getting the distance between the gearstick and the gearboxes linkage right . You can remove the shift rod itself and lengthen/shorten or remove the gearstick and "move" the hole where the shift rod attaches to it .
Anyway if we can get Ellies two rods working well I'll post the lengths so that others have a base line to work from .
Cheers A .
Just a quick note… I have been off the board for over a week and not following all the threads (due to time and interest) however if I can get an idea of exactly what your after I may be able to measure my AWD box as its still out, albeit under the car and the zort bracket it not bent and selectors working fine. In addition to this I also have a spare d/r selector set up so could compare bits/take some pictures for you.
Toyota 105 Series LandCruiser (that nobody on here wants to really hear about).
RX Touring Wagon - fitted out for 4WDing (currently collecting dust).
RX Project - will be road only at this stage (and currently taking way to long to finish).
RX Touring Wagon - fitted out for 4WDing (currently collecting dust).
RX Project - will be road only at this stage (and currently taking way to long to finish).
- discopotato03
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