Shuddering on down change, could be related to clunk
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Shuddering on down change, could be related to clunk
I have noticed that on changing down gears, as im letting out the clutch, the car shudders. Most noticeable on 3rd to 2nd. Only happens when revs arent matched during down-change. ie 2000rpm in 3rd causes revs to increase to 3000rpm in 2nd.
I have also noticed i have a "clunk' just before i drive off.
If i put the handbrake on and try to move forward, i can make it 'clunk', then i can get it to do it again if i try to reverse with the brake on.
It is really hard to diagnose by myself as i cant be under the car while im testing it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
I have also noticed i have a "clunk' just before i drive off.
If i put the handbrake on and try to move forward, i can make it 'clunk', then i can get it to do it again if i try to reverse with the brake on.
It is really hard to diagnose by myself as i cant be under the car while im testing it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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warped flywheel perhaps.
with the clunk, im sure youve checked the castle nuts etc? Also make sure all the control arm/radius rod bolts are tight, particullary where the radius rod goes back into that plate with three bolts.
shagged bushes at the top of the radius rod? Shagged bush in the rear diff? Is the clunk there all the time; ie, does it go away if you engage 4wd and so on?
engine mounts, gearbox mounts. Engine stay rod?
theres afew ideas there, although im sure youve checked most of them.
alex
with the clunk, im sure youve checked the castle nuts etc? Also make sure all the control arm/radius rod bolts are tight, particullary where the radius rod goes back into that plate with three bolts.
shagged bushes at the top of the radius rod? Shagged bush in the rear diff? Is the clunk there all the time; ie, does it go away if you engage 4wd and so on?
engine mounts, gearbox mounts. Engine stay rod?
theres afew ideas there, although im sure youve checked most of them.
alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12637
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
The clunk would be CV's. My cv's have been on the way out for the best part of two years now. Its always clunked in the way you've described.
The shuddering is the flywheel, most likely warped a little bit, nothing really to worry about unless you don't like it (I always double the clutch and match revs, the shudder is my reminder when I don't do it
)
Cheers
Bennie
The shuddering is the flywheel, most likely warped a little bit, nothing really to worry about unless you don't like it (I always double the clutch and match revs, the shudder is my reminder when I don't do it

Cheers
Bennie
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Ok thanks guys
The CV's are less than a year old from REPCO! (they are supposed to have a 2 year warranty) I got them to pass rego last august.
I thought the shuddering could be warped flywheel, but i doesnt shudder when im accelerating and slipping the clutch purposely.
I had a bit of a look and checked the tightness of a few bolts around the crossmember/ engine mounts, suspension etc. during the week.
I'll have to go visit dad and see if he can help me diagnose the faults.
Thanks
The CV's are less than a year old from REPCO! (they are supposed to have a 2 year warranty) I got them to pass rego last august.
I thought the shuddering could be warped flywheel, but i doesnt shudder when im accelerating and slipping the clutch purposely.
I had a bit of a look and checked the tightness of a few bolts around the crossmember/ engine mounts, suspension etc. during the week.
I'll have to go visit dad and see if he can help me diagnose the faults.
Thanks
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12637
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
I think you'll find if you have the rev's high enough you won't feel the shuddering, if you drop the revs the shuddering will be there. Have a play at low speed - moving off from a standing start at low revs then high revs.Suparoo wrote: I thought the shuddering could be warped flywheel, but i doesnt shudder when im accelerating and slipping the clutch purposely.
Cheers
Bennie