Lift Kits

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:44 am

BYB kit better.
High-Rise faster to get. Very close second.
Scorpion.. Over priced

Also remember this is a BYB site... will be hard to get anyone to admit to liking any other kits than the BYB ones. PM me for my "honest" opinion.

Dave

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 6:17 pm

Hi-rise are basically BYB kits any way. I don't care who buys them, I just don't like the bloke that makes them. One thing I will say is that we try to give some thing back to the community for free, unlike any of our competitors.

I will bag the mob that make them (Hi-rise), but I won't rubbish any one for buying them. I have a few good mates that have their kits and it doesn't worry me at all.

I wouldn't mind knowing your honest opinion, whether it is good or bad.

Any of the other manufacturers build good kits. You can try Subaxtreme, Subaru shop, Scorpion automotive in QLD, I think RSRLegacy makes them as well. Subamods I think is his name. There is also a few people in WA that are making them. There are plenty to choose from.

If you want to know more about our kits, contact Dave directly at [email protected]

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:02 pm

I'll put my honest opinion in - I like the splined steering extension that Scorpion has in their kit - Always have and always will. Apart from that its not hard to make a kit which works great. Best value for money would be a byb kit (and that includes the build yourself option) - you get a alloy kit the same as Scorpion, then I'd just spend the extra $110 for the steering extension from scorpion.

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:07 am

Glad some one is brave enough to be honest.

For obvious reasons I am not going to say what car exactly, but we have found a steering arm that is factory made that is the correct length. Kinda hard to get, so some kits go out with extended steering arms, others go out with "standard" ones.

We have thought about doing the extension that same as the way Mike does but I am not overly impressed with it. I have taken a few of their kits out here when putting bigger lifts in and have found the extensions are loose. I don't know if it was fatigue or over tightening from the fitters but the alloy thread was not real good. If the same thing was mode from steel it would be perfect.

I honestly can't see why the welded ones are not liked by many people. They are a steering arm, not a tail shaft. Total revs per minute would be one. There is stuff all load on them. The my's have the rubber mount that displaces shock, the power steer models in the L's and every EJ displace the shock throught the PWS unit. Even the L manual steer jobs have rubber mounting.

stinky · Post by **stinky** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:24 am

Also make sure you buy the smallest lift that you feel will suit your tyre choice. I've had stock, several 2" a 3" and a 4" and I found the 4" was a little too big with blocks moving and bending ( and probably their bolts too ) after about 6 months. We fixed the problem by welding everything together but that's hardly ideal. Mind you I'm also the only person I know who has bent a re-inforced diff hanger so it could be the driver not the car that's the problem

So pick a maximum tyre size, then pick a lift that will fit them comfortably without rubbing. 27" is about the tallest you'll want to put under an ea81/ea82 therefore a 2" with a bit of hammering or 3". My current beast has 3" at the front and 2" at the back.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:29 pm

BYB-01 wrote:I don't know if it was fatigue or over tightening from the fitters but the alloy thread was not real good. If the same thing was mode from steel it would be perfect.

My extension is plated steel.

BYB-01 wrote: I honestly can't see why the welded ones are not liked by many people. They are a steering arm, not a tail shaft. Total revs per minute would be one. There is stuff all load on them. The my's have the rubber mount that displaces shock, the power steer models in the L's and every EJ displace the shock throught the PWS unit. Even the L manual steer jobs have rubber mounting.

The problem is that the RTA in NSW doesn't allow welded steering components. You crash and someone is killed, and that part failed, you're rooted. One in a million will fail, I don't want that part...

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 1:58 pm

Like Brett said... I have seen the spline extensions strip and fail... i have never seen a welded one fail.

Dave

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 8:56 pm

I've had a splined extension fail. Not nice at all.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 9:59 pm

tim_81coupe wrote:I've had a splined extension fail. Not nice at all.

8O what do you look out for to prevent this?
and what could a possible roadside fix for it be? that is if one survives stopping 8O

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:05 pm

Look out for any sideways movement in the steering extension. The instant you get any side play from the extension it's about to go.

I've been lucky in the 3 times its happened to me (!) that I've been driving at a slow speed (carpark). I've also been lucky in that the extension has failed because it has pulled outwards before popping loose. I only have a 2" extension on a 3" kit, so all this is my own doing.

I am in pretty desperate need of a 3" extension, I did use a twin uni Liberty extension for a while, but this gave a bad jerking on the wheel. At the moment I am running the alloy extension and a slightly longer piece of spline, this seems to be OK but I really want to change to a proper extension. Welded that is.