EJ20 into EA82 Is it legal in NSW?

subalex · Post by **subalex** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:10 am

Welcome to the club mate... this means that you'll be joining the dozens/hundreds of others here online scouting for the rear discs from an RX (rare) to swap over unless you've got in mind to do the 5 stud conversion which makes brakes a much easier job to find since they're from Libertys or Imprezas.

Just to make this thread more interesting... last I checked the modifications table it was actually possible to get an L-series certified running an EJ20,EJ22,EJ25 and even turbo variants of all those (imagine an XT Forester or STI Impreza engine - never without AWD and massive brake overhauls as well thanks) BUT, strangely enough.. NOT a 3.0 H6 engine. This is, mind you, using the online calculator on the registry's website. Considering the power differences between the say 2.5 turbo and 3.0 nat. asp. I'd find it hard not to come up with a good argument for it. Considering the power difference I wouldn't though. Would you??

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:53 am

98choppa wrote:
(i thinks that would be sufficient,the liberty had rather unsubstantial brakes to be honest)

anyone,,,anyone?

Liberty brakes are extremely substantial when fitted to an L series. When I had XT6 brakes on the RX (they are the same size as stock series 1 liberty) they were in a word brilliant, that car stopped hard. I can only imagine what 4 pot wrx brakes would be like on one!

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:03 pm

subalex wrote: Just to make this thread more interesting... last I checked the modifications table it was actually possible to get an L-series certified running an EJ20,EJ22,EJ25 and even turbo variants of all those (imagine an XT Forester or STI Impreza engine - never without AWD and massive brake overhauls as well thanks) BUT, strangely enough.. NOT a 3.0 H6 engine. This is, mind you, using the online calculator on the registry's website.

Tare weight of L series turbo 4wd sedan is 1070kg according to NSW RTA documentation. Using the VSI Table you can fit a 3.2L NA engine, or a 2.6L Turbo engine. This is WITH certification. You can fit a EZ30 to an L and get it certified. The current model EZ30 is 180kw. The older EZ30 is 155kw and a waste of time compared to using an EJ turbo. The new one would be pretty sweet though.

I couldn't see a problem with running those engines as 2wd either, so long as you spent the time and money on braking and suspension set up. Plenty of cars out there fatory with that sort of power/weight ratio and 2wd (albeit mostly RWD which is not unheard of in subes) Imagine a 260kw STi engine through a RB25 5 speed driving a 4.44 rear diff - with decent (ie not L series) suspension design - the thing would be a weapon.

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:50 pm

Just to bring up again, surely brakes are related to the weight of the car and not how fast it can go? I can't see why the brakes need to be upgraded when you do these engine conversions. Of course, better brakes are always good, but really, if you drive it the same as before then you aren't going to have any issues, there is minimal extra weight involved. Just because the engine is changed doesn't mean the brakes are not going to work as good surely?

As for brakes being inadequate on the Libertys, I guess it's how hard you drive/stop. The only time I've ever had issues wis with really long downhill sections at speed or trying to keep up with the RS Liberty club cars on cruises in a non-turbo. After I upgraded to the larger 277mm discs and twin piston calipers (found on RS, WRX) I've never had fade that I can recall or any feeling of them not being up to task. Was very rare before the change anyway.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:17 pm

Corner to corner the upgraded power car is capable of carrying more speed, therefore will need better brakes to pull up.

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:01 pm

I would say brakes should be matched to the power of the engine. If you are driving "enthusiastically" then for every kw/h you transfer into momentum, most of that will need to dissipated as heat in the brakes. Of course if you're not a racer then just painting the brake drums red will do fine, like on the ricer cars

subalex · Post by **subalex** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:36 pm

LOL! Paint the brakes red... I like it.

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:16 pm

i think the wa things are done- particularly in WA is that engine conversions are done and if done well the cops/pits dont even know and can pass it as a roadworthy car. and obviously if you have such a car you'd know its limitations for handling braking etc so you can do something about it.

98choppa · Post by **98choppa** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:54 pm

righto boys,this is fair enough,
i started it up yesterday and rolled up the car park,eased out the clutch-- then i nearly put the subwoofer through the back window----wo.
thats a big motor for that car,its never been to that place before!....feels like it lost its virginity!?! nuff said.

turbo? 2.5? youre insane.

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 3:06 pm

PeeJay wrote:I would say brakes should be matched to the power of the engine. If you are driving "enthusiastically" then for every kw/h you transfer into momentum, most of that will need to dissipated as heat in the brakes. Of course if you're not a racer then just painting the brake drums red will do fine, like on the ricer cars

But surely brakes have to pull up the weight of the car & contents only. Momentum of a moving object is relative to the mass only, physics doesn't care what engine you have. All I'm saying is the only reason you should need to upgrade brakes is if you are going faster than the OE brakes can slow you at any point in time without fade, and that doesn't matter what engine you have, it's how late you brake. I guess this is more likely with a more powerful motor, but it doesn't have to be.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:43 pm

Having an RX with the L series 4 wheel disc brakes and standard diameter wheels, all i can say in regards to braking is that if you are pushing the car hard enough on the road as to get brake fade then you need to change the fluid to something better than whats been in there for the last 20years or get to the race track. Even with hard driving in the hills i only start to get a bit of noticable fade after 15mins of pushing. And really if you are wanting to drive that hard for that long on a normal road you either are in a stolen car running for your life or have a death wish.