Starter motor not engaging always

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:02 am

ran out of time to pull the starter today, maybe needs some adjustment ?

anyway, perhaps I should acquire some replacement parts first...like the drive pinion (looking at the dismantled view in the gregorys, looks like the likely culprit), or should I just get another starter from the wrecker/new ? any recommendations ?

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:34 am

I have 3 lying around taking up space, if you can make you're way to robertson you can have one for $20.

Jordan.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:06 am

why thanks Jordan, I should visit this new wreckers yard at Robertson

Are all starters the same on My or L ?, gregorys shows 2 types, direct drive (mine) or reduction drive.

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:17 am

Dont know about MY but both types fit in L series, reduction type is better IMHO

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:24 am

EA81 and EA82 starters are definitely the same.

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:14 pm

The only reduction drive starter I have came from the automatic '84 Touring Wagon.

I'm not sure which part of that determines which one gets the reduction drive, I'm guessing the auto.

And yeah the starter's I've pulled from EA82 manuals and MY manuals have been identical.

Jordan.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:58 am

The starter motors look different in the Gregorys manual and in real time view- between MY and L series.

I think it is important to have same number of teeth and same size between the two before even trying

But it sounds as if they are interchangeable between models

I have been having odd starter moments ever since I put my 5 speed in with spacer on starter. really thought it was cactus recently until pulling solenoid off to inspect, realise it is not serviceable, put it back and been fine for three weeks, except for one time

$20 bucks sounds reasonable - does the reduction drive from the auto look the same Jordan?

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:17 pm

You have by now remedied the problem but if you havent then it could be the brushed have died, too dusty a condition and the throw out screw make it hard for the gear to throw out or you have had water in it another one thing that will stop them.

L series and MY starter motors will interchange

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:25 pm

Last I heard he had the starter in and everything was working smoothly again.

Jono I'll look into it for you tomorrow.

Jordan.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:17 am

The "new" one went in, it didn't give a hint of not working, so all good,
Thanks again Jordan

I had previously dismantled the old one, cleaned it/greased it/cleaned the brushes on the motor etc Put it back in, made no difference. I don't think its the motor thats the problem, its the throw out arm, as you can hear the starter motor spinning, but the engine is not turning.

And I looked at both side by side and couldn't tell any difference, the gear/cog on the throwout arm looked the same for any wear(if any?)

So have no idea what the problem is with the old one - speculations are
1. maybe the throwout arm is bent to a differnent angle due to age/whatever
2. the throwout solenoid is somehow weakened? as the throwout cog needs to force itself to lock into the gear set on the flywheel.......

and I can't see anything that is adjustable in it??

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:52 am

the solanoid wont be weakened otherwise it would not engauge the power to the starter motor... unless the little rod and bar thing that connects the terminals is "longer" or out of alignment so that the starter moter gets power before the cog is engauged????
My guess would be worn pivot and cog end assembly on the throw arm, it would not take much, It could also be bent but i dont know how you would have managed that?
When you manually pull out the cog with your fingers how much slack is there before you feel the resistance from the solanoid/throwarm? Is there a differance in slack between the two moters? My guess would be that any slack more than 10mm or so would be to much, maybe even less?

Probably not worth worrying about it given the price of a 2nd hand moter, but annoying if you cant figure out whats wrong with it.

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:35 pm

Just for you Jono, sorry it took so long:

Jordan.