Hydraulic clutch in L series
- PeeJay
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Hydraulic clutch in L series
Does anyone have some pics or some tips on the easiest way to install a hydraulic clutch into a 2" lifted L series with EJ20G? I've got a dual range Forester X box to put in next week.
I havn't taken any photos of mine but I can try and describe it...
- the clutch master cylinder mounts in the accellerator cable hole.
- take the accellerator cable out of the firewall and relocate it so it goes through one of the other holes, next one down is fine.
- the clutch master cylinder will need abit grinded off on the drivers side of it (where one of the two mounting bolts goes) and a new hole drilled for that mounting bolt, this is so it will clear the brake booster.
- mark where the two mounting bolts need to go on the firewall and drill them
- make a bracing plate out of ~3mm metal and mount that on the inside of the firewall, fill gaps up with gutter silicone or the like so it mounts nice and flush (this works well).
- weld a piece of right angle steel to the side of the clutch pedal approx 1inch offset to the passenger side of the car. This is to have a hole drilled in it for the pivot point. The original Lib stud goes through this which goes into the original Lib push rod which goes into the master cylinder. It makes it alot easier if you have the original Lib clutch pedal so you can reference this to get the pivot point in the right place, a different of only a few mm can make it not work.
- the clutch master cylinder mounts in the accellerator cable hole.
- take the accellerator cable out of the firewall and relocate it so it goes through one of the other holes, next one down is fine.
- the clutch master cylinder will need abit grinded off on the drivers side of it (where one of the two mounting bolts goes) and a new hole drilled for that mounting bolt, this is so it will clear the brake booster.
- mark where the two mounting bolts need to go on the firewall and drill them
- make a bracing plate out of ~3mm metal and mount that on the inside of the firewall, fill gaps up with gutter silicone or the like so it mounts nice and flush (this works well).
- weld a piece of right angle steel to the side of the clutch pedal approx 1inch offset to the passenger side of the car. This is to have a hole drilled in it for the pivot point. The original Lib stud goes through this which goes into the original Lib push rod which goes into the master cylinder. It makes it alot easier if you have the original Lib clutch pedal so you can reference this to get the pivot point in the right place, a different of only a few mm can make it not work.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
No pretty sure it goes where the accellerator cable used to. I remember having to relocate the accellerator cable elsewhere.
When you actually start doing it its obvious where the master cylinder has to go anyways.
When you actually start doing it its obvious where the master cylinder has to go anyways.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
ah thats right, I should have remembered that considering I had to file out the accellerator hole to fit the Lib cable.
I was actually thinking of speedo cable. But I think my L series had the speedo cable comming through the wrong hole in the first place!
I was actually thinking of speedo cable. But I think my L series had the speedo cable comming through the wrong hole in the first place!
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163