4 x 140 PCD to 4 x 114 - :( help! - I'm stuck

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 11:27 pm

#*^! engineers !

I tried to get some hubs engineered, (by 2 different engineers) without welding up the original stud holes - without success.

* Engineer reasonably requested that the holes be welded up. (fair enough)
* He also said that they had to be welded by someone with knoledge of the necessary procedure - yer, well ok ( diffferent materials, different welding techniques , OK, I can live with that) I may need to have the procedure varified by the engineer, before the welding takes place.

...but " what is the "exact" material that the "L" series hubs are made from? (yes, I know it's metal of some description

)

Does any one know? Is there a spec sheet that will have this info - somewhere? A metalergist (the expert who does metal analasys) wants to charge between $280 to $350 to tell me what the material is..

after taking a sample and testing it. I thought someone here may know , or has done this already.

I have heard that the most common technique is to heat the hub to a certain temperature, in some sort of oven, weld it using a similar material to the hub re heat it and let cool.

I was wanting to do the new 5 stud conversion, but will be priced out of my budget, so this is the next best thing. Just want to get some better rims eventually ( 17"s would be nice).

another thought, does anyone have 4 x 114 conversion and done something different? I'm open to suggestions ( but in reality, if it were dead easy, everyone would be doing it)

4 x 114 stud pattern, obviously isn't as good as 5 stud, but it's gotta be better that 4 x 140.

Any thoughts anyone?
thanks
Chris

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 8:42 am

Try the USMB, somebody from the states might know

http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/forum

How much are you looking at for your 4x100 adaptors?

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 8:56 am

I am re drilling the original hubs.

There are no adaptors, so it is just a change of stud pattern. Not difficult to do, The new pattern is offset slightlyso the load is really not to close to the original stud pattern can be re drilled cheaply with new studs put in. It is quite usable as it is, just with an engineers report will be legal.

Front hubs are done - exept for the welding of the old holes. I want to get all the problems sorted before I do the rears - as I don't have spares.

Costs to have done are about $80 each + engineers cert

I'll duplicate the request on USMB

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:08 am

Oh ok.... cool

What wheels are you planning to put on it?

Im assuming that you are gonna post heaps of pics

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:15 am

Hopefully some bling chrome 17's or black chrome - with 45 profile rubber.

I havn't chosen anything yet as I want to make sure that the legality side of what I am doing works first. + I want to do a retrim ( sourcing leather and the right material now) , ummm paint (started on the roof) ... etc and so forth

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:58 pm

I do believe the hubs are 4140 steel alloy. Welding them then tempering them should be ok. They should be tempered to homogonise the steel after the heat from the welding process.

MechaWagon knows more about this than I do.

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 10:20 pm

Thanks Muddy, I owe ya

The answer I have been looking for.

I'll ask Ben what further details he knows or where the material content was learned, unless he posts it first.

With the hub material known, the correct welding technique and temps can be done, redrilled and certified.

Could be written up in the tech manual may be?
thanks

Oversteer · Post by **Oversteer** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:48 pm

Th steel the disc hubs are made from is easy enough to weld and certify(arc or TIG)....I`ve had a set done and the machinist/engineer said a cert wasn`t a problem.

Rear drums....welding of the cast drum material is not recomended because the heat will stress the surounding material.....it just not worth it and an engineer will/should never past a low grade welded cast iron part like the drum.

OS

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:55 pm

OS, can you please forward me the name of that engineer if you can, i'll give him a call .

They all seem a bit pedantic around here.
Thanks
Chris

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:11 pm

The engineer in Taree will pass redrilled hubs without welding the old holes.

He was the engineer that Nev Gosson's car was certified by with the 4x114.3 rims.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 8:07 pm

Whatever happend to Nev anywho?

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 9:38 pm

This is the hub so far, there is only about 3/16 " (5mm) between the old holes and the edge of the new studs see below:

click to enlarge

Thanks Ben, Ill look up the guy in Taree

WombatRacing · Post by **WombatRacing** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:17 am

Any more progress with getting them welded or engineer aproved?

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:35 pm

Everyone's on Holidays

so no further news yet. I have contacted someone who can do the job, but wont be back till mid January. They will supply the method used to weld the holes to the engineer.

They wont quote on the job, but did say that it doesn't take long

WombatRacing · Post by **WombatRacing** » Sun Jan 01, 2006 9:29 pm

Keep us posted as Im very interested in changing my stud pattern.

Cheers Wombat