EA82T ECU jumper wire connector ????

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:22 am

According to factory manuals the ECU test jumper wire connector is green with a single wire located under the dash near the ECU. I am looking between ECU and the acc pedal area and find everything but a GREEN plastic single wire connector. And guessing there needs to be another green plastic opposite sex connector within reach

Any tips in finding it.

It is 3plug flapper AFM 3/87 auto factory sedan Oz delivery

Thanks

I have some flashing LED on ECU issues I think I should fix

flashes evenly on off as if it is the O2 going rich lean at 1200 idle

unhose the auxillary valve, leave it unplugged and idle drops LED stops flashing. Also seen it trying to spit code

timmo · Post by **timmo** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 1:40 pm

yeah the connectors are green, the male & female plugs should be bundled up with a heap of other random connectors in the area you are looking. With the high idle so the auxillary air valve isnt shutting off or is there a vac leak? Obviosuly you have tried screwing down the idle adjustment?

timmo

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 5:08 pm

When there are no codes to show, the led on the side of the ecu shows the o2 sensor activity, if it is on, it is running rich (or in open loop mode) if it is flashing, it is in closed loop mode and stoich, if it is off, it maybe running lean, possiably caused by a vaccum leak.

Test mode connectors are green and are t shaped plugs, there should also be some balck connectors there too for clearing stored codes

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 8:49 pm

yeah manual indicates when all is rosey and no fault codes the LED is on/off depending on lean/rich state. Given that the O2 sensor looks original and may have seen coolant as well as exhaust a newie should change some things.

With lots of discerning lookng at manuals (all over them) I find check connector III under bonnet is also connected to these jumper wire connections, so may be a back up

Been thinking air leak too. WD40/ CRC556 (it's a SUBARU part # !) will be chucked around

Not tried the idle screw in throttle body yet, no point if there is another cause. The paint dab on throttle adjuster is intact too. Will disconnect and plug aux air tubes and play and isolate any air leaks.

Unknown history ...

timmo · Post by **timmo** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:06 pm

the screw with the paint dab you mention is to adjust the tps. Try the idle screw, at least then you can see if there is a leak with the cold start valve thingy. ie if idle doesnt drop you have a leak (this was my problem the pipe near close to the inlet manifold was cracked)

timmo

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:49 am

Right

1.0 Have found both green connectors by removing fuse panel. Noted and tested ALL the other connectors just sitting down there. Lots of free fused spots at the back of the fuse panel. NO tapping into wires for me, with this car. I have choice of Batt +, Acc+, or Ign + spots.

2.0 paint dab is on other side to TPS that faces cable wheel like and idle tension adjust. also gonna try a 1/2" irrigation tap on the cold start thingy hose.

3.0 The hose between cold start and manifold looks good but i'd root it if i touch it so might just get more heater hose and some clamps after i set my plug gap and replace leads - got an intermittent miss #2

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 2:20 pm

Suparoo wrote:When there are no codes to show, the led on the side of the ecu shows the o2 sensor activity, if it is on, it is running rich (or in open loop mode) if it is flashing, it is in closed loop mode and stoich, if it is off, it maybe running lean

So this could be the random flashing i'm getting from my standard MPFI ECU while driving? I've always wondered what that was, at times i've had the O2 sensor code while cruising, turned out it was buggered. Now when cruising i get a really long flash, random short ones - not like reading code lengths of short/long flashes. Is this the O2 sensor operation being shown?

If i want to read codes, when is the best time to do it?

I should've known this info 2 years ago...

Jono, the connect III plugs under the bonnet i think may be for computer diagnostics plug in... never really known what they're for and never used them - probabily never will either.

Cheers

timmo · Post by **timmo** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:05 pm

jono wrote:
2.0 paint dab is on other side to TPS that faces cable wheel like and idle tension adjust. also gonna try a 1/2" irrigation tap on the cold start thingy hose.

yeah thats the one, it would adjust idle if you screw it enough, but my understanding is that its there to adjust the tps. Idle is adjusted with the idle screw on the back of the throttle body and cable tension with the thread and nuts (technical term!) where it sits near the top of the bell housing

jono wrote:3.0 The hose between cold start and manifold looks good but i'd root it if i touch it so might just get more heater hose and some clamps

yeah obviously the crappy hose cant handle the heat there and it just gets brittle and breaks

timmo

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:06 pm

El_Freddo, from what i have read the LED will flash on off evenly spaced for lean OFF , rich ON or viseversa, cannot recall - just as a readout of the O2 sensor , nothing wrong coz your ecm dash light not on. I did see a bit of dit dah stuff on mine for a while and i guess it was code ( hard to judge what it was)but has gone for now