89 EA82t Surgeing while cruising

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 6:34 pm

jono wrote:the 4 pointed thing under the rotor is a reluctor

Na thats not what i meant, on the underside of the cap, the alluminium post lookin things that the spark jumps to from the rotor.

I was talkin to the guy from repco, and he said i probably have a import dizzy.

4plug ecu are built as either NA or Turbo, there is not select mode thingy.

I wanna get a fuel ratio gauge, maybe that will give me an indication of what is goin on combustion wise.
Im also gettin my injectots cleaned/flowed to make sure they are all puttin out the same amount of fuel.

Thanks for your help fellas

schultzie · Post by **schultzie** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:57 pm

when i was getting detonation the car was getting like a stutter, no noise ( cant remember now but pretty sure there wasnt noise)

try closing the gap up i think 1.1 is to big even try 1.0 might help but i could be wrong, the af meter might be another thing as well to help diagnose but i have never used one so cant offer advise

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:06 pm

i have never heard of spark plugs having to big a gap, unless thyere not designed for it
as far as i no for NGK plugs if they have say -11 at the end of the number then they are designed for the 1.1mm gap which gives a better burn
obviously to small is not good but ive never heard of to big with the right plugs

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:02 pm

The more you raise the boost on a turbo engine the more you have to close the gap on the plugs to provide a good spark

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:21 am

Suby Wan Kenobi wrote:The more you raise the boost on a turbo engine the more you have to close the gap on the plugs to provide a good spark

That is so so true, here then you can get some gain by using a CDI.
I once had a crazy surging?(for want of better description) under driving/load conditions, free revving it went fine to usual 6500rpm with no apparent misses,so had me stumped for a bit too.

replaced sparks - problem still there
replaced dizzy cap and all was well, but I was using a carby dizzy on the ea82t, so easily got a replacement from Repco.

BTW, too big gaps you can have,even with CDI 1.35mm is too big - get missing under load, 1.2~1.25mm is good.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 4:05 pm

I went looking for a new dizzy cap, but apparently i have an import dizzy as the bosch or echlin caps dont fit, its like they are 2mm too small. Even the bolt holes dont quite match up. So i tried my dizzy out of the touring wagon, that too doesnt fit, surely i dont have 2 import dizzys.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:51 pm

been looking at my import dizzy (4 plug - no guts) and its cap is about 10mm shorter in height than the 'normal' cap. If i measure JUST inside the base of the CAP with verniers between the lugs that appear around inside i get ~74.0mm. I guess the dizzy is just below 74 for a snug fit on the raised inner bit . Might just take me dizzy in for a it up when i take it out !!

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:16 pm

Jonno the 4 plug CAS dizzy's I've seen have the rotor button anchored by a phillips head screw in the side . The no guts probably means the cover for the slotted disc and optical sensors , there should be 2 or 3 screws in the side of the body to lock the cover plate in place .

I suspect there is a difference between the mech/vac and optical dizzy caps and rotor buttons . The dead give away for an optical dizzy is the lack of a vacuum can on the side . When I replaced my 3 plug RX's cap I noticed that the screws were different length but they can be changed over .

Cheers A .