Need pro help to fix my riped out captive nuts

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Tue May 15, 2007 4:51 pm

Hey all,

I fixed this problem myself but it has since broken again so time to get it done once and for all professionally. L wagon front passenger side captive nuts, where the radius rod connects to the Gbox Xmember have been ripped out of the body to varying severity.

I got a local quote for $700 a side. Although the right is fine it will need the same treatment to make them the same, and to correct any material thickness that's used (5mm?). But $1400 is just plain ridiculous. The guy said that it could be cheaper depending on how long it takes to fabricate the bits he uses to fix.

So my question is how have others fixed their ripped out captive nut issues? Apparently the car will need to be engineered to once the job is complete, as its a modification to the chassis. The cost in included, I just don't want the engineer to discover my car is lifted 3" (NSW only allowed 2") and give me more things to fix...lol

So give us your stories of how you fixed how much it cost and if you can recommend any repair shops (Sydney).

p.s Also need a new windscreen and my heater core seems to be leaking again...

Cheers

Smokey

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Wed May 16, 2007 4:26 pm

Drill a hole up through the old captive nut hole and then cut into the floor on the inside careful no to go through anything but the captive nut channel. Clean the area with a wire wheel then using a bit of 6mm flat bar weld the new captive nut to the plate and plate it in the hole do the bolt back up when it is tight weld the plate in the channel then seal the hole in the floor up

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Wed May 16, 2007 8:20 pm

weld the new captive nut to the plate and plate it in the hole

Suby Wan Kenobi - Good advice but will only work where you can get to the spot through the floor. One of the three damaged nuts is accessible and this will be a good fix for it, but the others are on the engine side of the firewall. To temporarily fix the issue I went in through the side arch just back from the front strut, and put a plate in there, but not being a very good welder, its only good enough to get arround, till its done properly.

I need to get it done by a pro either someone on here who's confident and wants to tackle it or a shop. I'm happy to pay properly of course, but finding a shop is the hard part. Most smash repairs are scared when they see it and the pro engineering mobs won't touch it due to not being licensed to work on cars.... Catch 22. So that leaves the hardcore 4x4 shops who rebuild cars and parts. And there is not so many of those to arround, not to mention the $80/h they charge.

So who is Sydney that can weld. I really need your help here guys. Rego is due soon also. From memory a car in NSW can only go 3 months out of rego before it needs a blue slip (pit inspection...phoowh, scary).

Colin.

Fatz · Post by **Fatz** » Wed May 16, 2007 9:30 pm

when it stops raining here ill post up pics of what i did..
Works excellent.
tougher than a fresh l series with no lift;)

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Thu May 17, 2007 3:09 pm

Oh, more problems, sorry to hear.
Must be fairly bad? well I seem to remember a certain video of Smoov jumping the subie off some sand hills, which moved the trailing arms, yeah but I guess that sort a thing brewed trouble for the front too.
I just thought i'd bring that up in case your looking at deciding to spend $1400 on it.

"the engine side of firewall" - basically for a start almost all the outer skin metal around there needs to be removed, then you'll see further the extent of the fix. And you can't just "tack weld " things here, needs to be a secure weld with good heat penetration,

In my case the problem was the structure rusted, but bolt holes etc still aligned properly, so was a case of building up new steel around it. For you it seems there are bends in the structure, i dunno, but this could be difficult.....

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Fri May 18, 2007 5:11 pm

Fatz - Looking forward to it mate!!!!

Fredsub - Yeah that lift was not the best of installs either... The rear didn't even have the brackets back to be body where the fuel (carb) pump is. In front of the trailing arms.

There are a few bends involved but these are not a problem, its the mess the ripped out nuts have made, and also now compounded by my 1/2 ass welding skills and a lack of heavy material used.

Come on guys who else has had this happen to their pride and joy and how did u fix it?