cv boots breaking

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camo85
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cv boots breaking

Post by camo85 » Tue Oct 31, 2006 8:38 pm

hi, howz does everyone stop their driver side inner boot from tearing ,i've busted several in the last year,read something about porsche make leather boots ,but i haven't been able to source any.:(

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:48 pm

your car is obviously lifted then??....i tore one last week..

the only thing i can say is to learn how to replace them!...as they are only like $10 each...but a bitch to replace!

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:05 pm

If it only seams to be that side and that particular joint all the time... make sure the boot is not getting dangerously close to your steering arm... it's possible it is hitting it and wearing it away. Some CV boot companys actually list a different part number for the drivers side compared to the passenger side to avoid this.

Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.

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Suby Wan Kenobi
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Post by Suby Wan Kenobi » Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:41 pm

I agree with Subarino on this one. I have had a boot wear through on Dads MY at one stage and it was cause i had a 2WD front in there and it was rubbingo n the steering extension
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wrx_nut
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Post by wrx_nut » Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:40 am

if the car is turbo'd the RHS inner boot may be breaking because of the heat coming off the downpipe... Since my ea82t conversion around 5months ago the RHS inner boot has ripped...

$10 bucks a boot sounds good where you getting them from? i paid around $20 each :P

wrx_nut
85' Touring Wagon, EA82T, 3" Lift, 27's, RS intercooler
90' Brumby (B&S Project!) still cutting rust :P

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fredsub
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Post by fredsub » Wed Nov 01, 2006 5:47 pm

wrx_nut wrote:if the car is turbo'd the RHS inner boot may be breaking because of the heat coming off the downpipe...

wrx_nut
yeah had same problem, until I wrapped it with the inner wine-cask foil bag, tied on with cable ties...lol
now it seems to last forever:p

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wrx_nut
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Post by wrx_nut » Wed Nov 01, 2006 5:57 pm

haha seems like a good one....might have to get on the cask wine :P

how many k's u getting outta boots?
85' Touring Wagon, EA82T, 3" Lift, 27's, RS intercooler
90' Brumby (B&S Project!) still cutting rust :P

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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Wed Nov 01, 2006 7:58 pm

Yeah i pay a little over $20 for mine too... would be interested in where they are sold cheeper.

Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:22 pm

the shop is called Malz..they have a shop in cannington and midland, soon opening in balcatta...here's the page with the boots on it...

i bought boots last week for about $10, $12 max, with grease and the clamps!...note the complete shafts as well!...

sorry about the quality..had to change it so the file wasnt too big!

Image
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:04 pm

belieive it or not super cheap have drive pro ones for $10 got a outer for the lib the other day!!
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The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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camo85
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Post by camo85 » Sat Nov 04, 2006 11:27 am

My brumby isn't lift just stock i think the steering shaft is to close to the boot,may b worth while getting shaft bent.boot only last like 2500k's with some 4x4ing.thank for the advice fellas

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SUBYDAZZ
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re: boots

Post by SUBYDAZZ » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:39 pm

Definitely agree with the turbo heating making these perish quicker.

Folks I have spoken to have said it's more about the quality of the rubber, genuine boots go for around $35, though I have found a $10 will often last longer. Either way I think it's a fact of life that these things will go sooner rather than later. Keeping them clean of grime and dirt may make a difference too as you can imagine the more crud that is on the boot wearing into the rubber as it turns the less long-lived it is likely to be.

I wouldn't have thought it makes any difference whether your Suby is lifted or not, but with spring lift I would assume they are more likely to wear quicker due to changed CV geometry.

I'd actually like to try putting two universal type boots on the one joint to make it more long-lived, anyone reckon there's merit in that idea?
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SUBYDAZZ
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Post by SUBYDAZZ » Wed Nov 08, 2006 2:05 pm

camo85 wrote:My brumby isn't lift just stock i think the steering shaft is to close to the boot,may b worth while getting shaft bent.boot only last like 2500k's with some 4x4ing.thank for the advice fellas
Not sure how the steering shaft (column) could be too close to the CV boot, all Brumbys would be the same? If you bend the shaft I don't think that would be a particularly good idea, and surely when you turn it the bent part would either get further away or even closer?

Or am I missing something here?
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