MY EA81 radiator cooling fans

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat May 13, 2017 1:13 pm

Anyone have any knowledge on the wiring and purpose of the radiator cooling fans on an EA81 fitted with A/C and twin electric fans.
The twin electric radiator cooling fans in my 82 model EA81 Touring wagon and not switching on when the coolant temp gets high preferring to blow coolant everywhere instead (via the overflow bottle).
I see on the firewall side of the inlet manifold 2 x temp switches are fitted.

As per the following photo (switches circled in red) I think the one on the right drives the temp gauge on the dash but I don't know what the other one does.

If anyone has any schematics for the fan system it would be appreciated and/or other info.

I think one of the cooling fans only comes on when the A/C comes on but I dont know if this same fan comes on when the temp rises.
Would also like to know which relay(s) may control the fans and where these are located in the car.
Any advice appreciated.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat May 13, 2017 2:35 pm

The sensor on the left of your pic usually tells the manual choke to turn off, if you have manual choke.

As for A/C wiring, the relays on the drivers side strut tower do all the work (if you have a "factory fitted" system) There's a few different systems as far as I know. In my manuals schematic it looks like the main radiator fan only comes on with the thermo switch in the radiator. The condenser fan should turn on with the A/C button in the dash and stay on as long as the A/C compressor is running (so it cycles on and off with the evaporator temperature sensor) The weirdest thing I found with the system in my manual was that the condenser fan turns off if you turn the headlights on

If your main fan isn't coming on I would suspect the thermo switch in the radiator. If your condenser fan isn't coming on with the A/C button it could be many things. I would look at fuses first - the A/C fuses are separately mounted glass tube holders in the wiring, not integral to the fuse box. I think there's one by the battery and one under the dash near the fuse box. Next I would suspect the relay(s) on the strut tower, being 30 years old they could be at the end of their useful life.

Hope this helps, I'll try and get a decent photocopy of the wiring diagram out of my manual. It's hard though because the book is so thick I can't get the whole page on the scanner

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat May 13, 2017 4:15 pm

Silverbullet.

Your the man !!!!

From your info re the radiator thermo switch turning the main radiator fan on I thought that the thermo switch should be a normally open type and when it gets to temp the contacts close sending the circuit to earth so turning the fan on.
Note - I replaced the radiator thermo switch a year or two ago.

I pulled the switch wiring, started the car and used a jumper wire from the switch wiring plug to the chassis.

This caused the main radiator fan to come on AND the A/C fan too.

Now, the A/C circuit is a different kettle of fish in my case as the last time the A/C worked was when we found out we were having our first 2 kids.
They will be 15 in July so it has been a "couple of years" since the A/C actually worked.
I have never opened the A/C system up so I am hoping it is still basically OK though I appreciate things like O-Rings will be shot but hopefully there is still some gas in the system keeping things sealed.
The condenser might be stuffed too as it sits in the front of the radiator and catches all sorts of particles as you drive along.
Pushing the A/C button does nothing so the gas level is well and truly below the level to get the system to work.
I have cleaned the radiator thermo switch wiring plug and plugged it back in.
When time permits will run the car and see how things go.
Might have to look into the radiator itself as I think it is the original from the car too.

Thanks for your help and if you can find any schematics it would be greatly appreciated so I can trace all of the cooling system/A/C fan system.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat May 13, 2017 5:02 pm

Aha good to hear you got some joy

Yep putting the thermo switch wire to ground is a good way to see if the fan still works. If you really want to test your A/C system but think there's no gas in it, you can un-plug the two wires from the pressure switch on the drier and join them together, just see if the compressor etc comes on. You could even do it with the engine off, just key in the IGN position.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat May 13, 2017 5:06 pm

Thanks again, will have a look at your suggestions for the A/C test tomorrow and let you know how I go.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat May 13, 2017 9:00 pm

The AC electric fan probably turns off with the headlights on under the presumption that you're driving at night when the ambient air temp is lower than daytime temps. It wod also be a way of reducing electrical load on the system.

As a safety the AC fan will most likely come on if the primary fan is not dropping the coolant temp.

Cliff, as long as you can turn the pump by hand, your AC system should be fine

Cheers

Bennie

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat May 13, 2017 10:22 pm

Ended up getting time to pull the wires off the drier, used a lead to join them together and started the car.
Both the fans started up when the cabin fan was switched on and the A/C button pushed so all is well.
Thanks guys for all the help.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat May 13, 2017 11:16 pm

El_Freddo wrote:The AC electric fan probably turns off with the headlights on under the presumption that you're driving at night when the ambient air temp is lower than daytime temps. It wod also be a way of reducing electrical load on the system.

These are the only reasons I could think of as well, leaning towards the electrical load being the main reason. They must have designed it not with Australia in mind, when it's still 30C + at night and you need the A/C you'd probably need the condenser fan too

That's good news Cliff, so your A/C system seems to be electrically fully operational, just needs a gassing you're set

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun May 14, 2017 8:37 am

Silverbullet wrote: That's good news Cliff, so your A/C system seems to be electrically fully operational, just needs a gassing you're set

Probably because it hasn't been used for about 12-13 years!

Cheers

Bennie

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun May 14, 2017 12:12 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Probably because it hasn't been used for about 12-13 years!

Cheers

Bennie

I have been pretty slack with the A/C.
What with family stuff, moved houses, getting our old house ready for sale, car isn't a daily driver etc the years have flown.

On the plus side, yes, it hasn't had any use for 15 years.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Wed May 17, 2017 9:52 pm

I think the thermo switch that controls the electric fans and screws into the radiator is a Trident P/N TFS195.
Can anyone confirm this or suggest another brand/part number ?

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Tue Jun 06, 2017 9:21 pm

Bugger....
Replaced the fan thermo switch into the radiator and now I have a pin hole leak in the radiator tank next to the switch.
Spose it has gone 34 years so cant complain.
Off to the wreckers in the next week to see what I can find.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:17 pm

Ordered a new aluminum radiator.
Be here Tuesday hopefully.
Informed it will fit early Brumby's and Leone's and will fit dual elec thermo fans.
If it isn't right it can go back.
Here's hoping it doesn't need any mods to fit.
I don't have any other details till it arrives.

pedroj · Post by **pedroj** » Sat Jun 10, 2017 8:43 am

Hi Cliff, be very interested to hear how it goes, I suspect I will need to do some thing similar sooner rather than later.. please keep a hold of the part numbers is it is a success as you may find a tribe of us trying the same thing.

Peter

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jun 10, 2017 11:15 am

pedroj wrote:Hi Cliff, be very interested to hear how it goes, I suspect I will need to do some thing similar sooner rather than later.. please keep a hold of the part numbers is it is a success as you may find a tribe of us trying the same thing.

Peter

I plan to keep all info and pass this on to the forum.
The price I am being charged is $211 delivered and if it is no good it can go back. This is a bit more expensive than the likes of ebay but with it being delivered and can be returned if not good I thought to give it a go.
Will keep people updated.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 9:00 pm

New radiator arrived.

Short and Long stories following. Sorry it's all a bit long but stick with all of this as it tells a good story.

Short story first.
Radiator went straight in with both electric fans attached, no mods required at all.
It looks to be slightly wider but with rough measuring looks the same. The fans look to be slightly closer to the engine especially towards the Power Steering pump. Still, no issues and still enough clearance. There was a plastic drain plug in the drivers side tank which I removed and replaced with a steel plug.

Longer story now.
For those interested, I couldn't get a part number or manufacturer from my supplier. If anyone wants to order one of these radiators I can give you the suppliers company name and the contact (the owner). From talking to the supplier, there are 3 different radiators fitted to EA81 powered MY's/Brumbies.
The radiator I bought ONLY suits early MY's/Brumbies up to (we think) 83 or 84. This fits as my wagon is a 5th Month 1982.
This means anyone with a mid to late 80's or early 90's to end of manufacturer MY/Brumby, this radiator may not fit. I don't know what the differences are though.
This means for this weekend I managed to complete-
1. Pulled out all of the wiring loom that runs across the front of the car under the radiator to find where the front indicator power and earth wiring runs. Knew there was a fault and found where the earth wiring splices in it was all corroded and broken.
ran new earth wire across the car, re wrapped and wiring now into split flexible conduit too.
2. Replaced all accessible push mount wiring straps associated with holding the wiring under the radiator. Hint-used 6mm cable ties that come with the push mount adaptor fitted.
3. New crankshaft front oil seal installed.
4. New elec thermo fan thermo switch fitted to the new radiator.
5. New radiator installed.
6. New coolant used.
Had enough for now. Car is running a bit rough but this could be points/plugs/combination of both. Was like this before all the above work started. Ran the car with everything new fitted and the thermo fans came on with the temp gauge at about 1/3 level which is fine by me. At least they now work.

Again, if anyone wants one of these radiators let me know and I will pass on the info. I get nothing out of this except saving someone the hassle of finding a radiator that fits.