Drive Shafts.

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Gazza01
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Drive Shafts.

Post by Gazza01 » Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:44 pm

Young fellow just got his drive shafts replaced in his Brumby by a local garage. He complained to me that that now when he does a full on 360 degree turn both right and left he gets a clackety clack sound. I checked and he is right. My question is WTF is going on. I've got to jack the beast up and spin the wheels and turn them to be sure its the drive shafts. No noise in a straight drive, but it sound very much like drive shafts to me. I actually bought the new drive shafts on Ebay for $120 each. He denies do burn out and bush bashing in it.

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:15 pm

If they are aftermarket shafts with a tripod bearing inner joint, not the genuine Subaru ones with a 6 bearing inner joint, that will be the problem. The proper Brumby shafts have 6 ball bearings in a cage inside the inner joint, these don't click. Seems hit and miss with the new aftermarket shafts whether they click or not, usually they do in my experience. Also if the suspension is wound up at all it will make the clicking worse. Eventually the inner boots will split and get grease everywhere.
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Gazza01
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Post by Gazza01 » Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:42 am

Thanks for that info. He has had his Brumby lifted 2 inches and still has his 13 inch wheels on it. I might go back and put on the 14 inchs wheels back on for him and see if there is any difference when doing the 360 turns. I guess it will not make that much difference. I'm over this lifting cars. This Brumby drives like like sht since being lifted compared with mine that hasn't been lifted. and still has the 13 inch on.

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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Tue Mar 24, 2015 11:38 am

Why would a body lift kit affect the CV joints or make it drive like shit in any way? It shouldn't. Is it a proper full lift kit or just strut top extenders?

If the CV joints are clicking on full lock then they are faulty (new or not). The size of the wheels wouldn't make any difference to this.

If the car drives like shit, there is a reason and it's unlikely to be because of a lift kit, although that could perhaps amplify the symptoms of an unrelated cause.

- Wheel alignment is good?
- Tyres in good condition?
- All bushes in good condition?
- Tailshaft is balanced?
- Rear driveshafts and CVs in good condition?
- Brakes / hubs in good condition?
- Suspension is in good condition? (struts/spring not worn out, strut tops not broken?)
- Steering rack joints all in good condition?
- Wheels all balanced properly?
- Wheel bearings in good condition and wheel bearing castellated nuts all torqued up properly?

What are the "driving like shit" symptoms?

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Tue Mar 24, 2015 5:32 pm

Should clarify what I said; I meant "wound up" meaning if the original height adjustable front shocks had been wound up (2 adjusting nuts each) You're right Andrew a 2" body lift shouldn't put extra angle on the CV's unless it has only the strut tops put in. But then you never know what other people are doing from the other side of a computer screen.

In my experience, whenever I use the tripod inner race CV's in my ute, they click and rattle from the word go. This was made worse by previous owner having left the front struts wound up half way (didn't notice until after) Only the 6 bearing inner joints have stayed quiet for any length of time. You could be right, maybe something else in the car is out of whack putting stress on the inner CV's. But I also notice all after market brumby shafts one side boot rubs on the steering column.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
Image

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