Tweety's ea81 build

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 9:42 pm

So February 2015....early, mid or late Feb ??

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 5:55 pm

Running tappet clearances different to specified, slightly adjusts your cam timing and lobe shape.
Most of the time it makes little difference, but to get maximum performance out of it, set it to what is specified for that cam, not the motor.
The difference is more noticeable on a new motor, has less effect on a worn motor.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:11 am

Thanks Greg (Tambox)

yeh will certainly leave it as is until run in and depends on the tappets if they are loud.
Jonno.....it will be on pension day sometime in Feb 2015. lol

We just ordered new front struts for our Hyundai i30. 270,000kms over 6 years and its the first thing to "go". So that puts us back a little.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:55 pm

Checked out the tag that came on the new cam. .016 " clearance for all valve tappets for "running in purposes".

Interesting.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:20 pm

Guess you have to ride it to the shop to get next specs .....

happy to report my combined tappet adjustment resulting in even comps, new plugs, colder air duct and a remix of the fuel side - achieved target fuel goal and better..and is really a tractable engine to drive now. Responds better to leaner mixtures than richer - wonder if your 38/38 will end up same - keeping circuits to leaner side of things ??

Only about 75 sleeps to find out ......

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:59 pm

Here you go

On the bottom is the run in instructions as we previously discussed. eg 20 minutes over 2000 rpm.

Cam was done by Clive Cams Ferntree Gully. Vic

Nubaru · Post by **Nubaru** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:32 am

that looks like a wicked

cam with some high lift. Did this engine get new valve springs ? Care to share the price to custom machine a supplied cam for a 4 cylinder these days? I should reread this nice long thread shouldnt I ?
The cams for these boxers, even fewer lobes to machine coz doesn't one lobe do a valve each side like four lobes on cam in total - 8 valves ?

Excuse me re running in setting - does not say running in clearances - looks to be the cam profile needs a 16 /1000 " clearance - bigger than factory !

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:58 pm

Hi Nubaru,

Yeh, .016" much more than factory .010 inlet and .014 exhaust.

Cost Aus dollars for cam. Well dont really know. Engine builder quoted around $2000 for the basic engine new pistons (1mm oversize making 1820cc), bearings, triple valve seat grind, etc.
Add to that the cam, new camshaft gear, second hand crank (mine was stuffed), engine balanced and all 4 inlet valves replaced with new ones. Total price $2770. you'll have to guess the cam cost in that. Good final price I reckon.
Original engine had a broken ring that made its way to the rear cam gear doing damage.

Valve springs were retained. This engine was rebuilt for high torque at low revs for to suit cruising with VW full automatic trans. And towing my small camper trailer. Hence EB said no need to replace the springs as wasnt going to rev engine hard.

Weber 38/38 sequential also should make low rev power and torque improve with some fuel consumption increase expected. Should push 640kgm trike along nicely.
Tony

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Dec 09, 2014 8:12 pm

Well, Tweety's new engine might be started up by the end of the week.

After many hours looking at radiators like the porsche "centre" radiator requiring 2x 6 inch thermatic fans etc about $400 worth I re- entertained using the Alfa radiator.

Alfa 33 early model had an ideal radiator size being 570x240mm then the later model had 570x340mm. This 100mm extra height was my problem mounting it in the rear. The earlier radiator is no longer available in Australia and maybe the world. I had one but it got damaged, and these Alfa radiators are around $300. But I have 2x 10" and 12" fans in my shed to fit them.

Mounting the Alfa s2 radiator up back was rejected as the oil filter on the ea81 is so restricted it would be hard to spin off. Also the radiator would be mounted on an angle with limited air flow.

I've decided that the oil filter could be spun off with a custom tool. Two long prongs and a handle at the end would suffice. Spear the end of the filter with the prongs and turn handle. Easy. spinning a new one on is ok by hand.

There is enough ground clearance under the sump to mount a scoop to force air around the back of the sump pass the exhaust crossover pipe to the radiator. Unfortunately there is only room enough for one 10" thermo fan suck side.

Asthetics was a concern. Anything distracting from countless hours of work? A freely spinning thermo fan from the rear isnt my idea of the "wow" factor. So I have some black mesh and other material in store for that. I've got mesh on the engine side protecting the fins from spanner lapses.

Start up is now - take out all s.plugs, turn over engine till oil pressure light goes out. Replace plugs. little fuel down gullet, choke on and haave video and spare continence pads ready.... 20 minutes running at 2000 rpm. Check timing. Fill auto trans with oil (is half full and will need more so torque converter fills up)Engine shut down. Dump running in oil and replace with same. Let cool. Ride up and down hills and varying speed . Let the engine work a bit. Not too high revs. have bourbon. pics soon of radiator.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:52 pm

AHA !!
Here we have - a trike, with a 20,14 revamp EA81

Enginuity 1
self control 0

No efi ECU or sensor on this build Tony !! Start first go !
I reckon you will see a mod coming up of a filter strap, or do a remote filter

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Dec 09, 2014 10:00 pm

Haha.
yeh the remote filter was a thought. strap? didnt think of that. anyway it will be on the tinkerers list. Wonder if a more common and cheaper filter could be adapted to such extension? buy filters in bulk. the mind never stops.

my challenge is first crank start. check all 3 times over.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:13 pm

Some progress.

Radiator is now mounted. You can see below how it impedes on the oil filter access.

This shot from the rear illustrates that asthetics issue. I've got some black mesh but better still is some left over black wood heater flue that might look good. There was once a trike called a Scorpion that ran a Suzuki swift engine/trans and had the radiator in full view at the back and looked terrible.

The Alfa 33 radiator has plastic ends. There are two cylindrical mounts on each side down low. The top mounts were the problem for me. Adding mounts about the attractive black surround wouldnt be nice so made up these "H" brackets that will have heater hose on them for a snug rubber fit.

Radiator hoses posed a few issues. But were solved with a flexi hose on the top doing a "J" route to the radiator. This might be altered later on for something better. Problem is I have a 100mm long insert (not shown here) that runs in line with the hose. It carries a probe for digital temp gauge and probe for thermo fan switch. Direct hose from thermostat tp radiator isnt long enough and isnt direct either. hence "J" hose.

Gotta wire in the fan. Wires in situ. Do the rear mesh. Test fan. Then start up. Not sleepin much.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 4:40 pm

Need help now.

Engine was ready for start up. plugs out and turn over and oil pressure light went out after about 20 seconds. Good.

Replace plugs, tip little fuel down carbie, choke on and turn over. no start.

Check spark- no spark.

Check elec system. two wires from electronic dizzy - brown to negative on coil, black with light yellow stripe to positive.

When ignition is on, power is at coil positive and negative. But, when I pulled off the two wires inside the dizzy cap and placed my test light on them, it lit on the striped wire that goes to positive but when placed on the brown wire it blew a fuse?????

So I know its spark I'm having trouble with. anyone got ideas on how to test? I have suspicions of the main coil to cap high voltage lead. How can I test that?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:05 pm

with subaru wiring yellow trace on black wire is to coil neg, red trace is to pos.
Lets dumb this down a bit Tony, the pickup in dizzy has two pins. You need to know which pin goes to which side of coil yeah ? Brown wire not in Subie coil colours !!

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:04 pm

anyone got ideas on how to test? I have suspicions of the main coil to cap high voltage lead. How can I test that?

Pull it out of the centre of dizzy cap, connect it to a spark plug (earthed on the motor), crank. You should get lots of sparks.
Or measure it with your multimeter, provided its a standard sort of lead, 2000-5000 ohms.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:41 pm

Thanks Greg and Jonno.
Jonno the two wires are- brown and black/yellow trace.

See pics below.

I have another stock dizzy is poor condition and the below pic is of the wires off that. You can see the brown colour clearly.

So lets assume the "brown" is red...that goes to positive and I had it on negative. So switched them around. Still no spark.

Greg. Will go to garage and try your trick....standby....nope. no spark.

Have 12 volts at positive on coil. I've done a fair bit of rewiring on the trike so what other readings should I have. ?

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:04 pm

That "brown" is actually a dirty old yellow Tweety! Which ever colour you want to call it, it goes to the Negative side of the coil.
The black with white trace goes to the Positive side of the coil.
What are the colours coming from your loom? On a standard EA81 there should be a thick black/white trace PLUS a thick black/red trace both going to the Positive side of coil.
To the negative side of coil from the loom should be a smaller black wire with yellow fleck and a yellow wire with brown fleck.
John (#2)

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:46 pm

Thanks John (2)

Yeh, had it right all along. The wires I had marked previously but doubted it as there is no spark.

I dont have a brumby loom, its Panther trikes loom.

At any rate the other wires from the positive terminal of the coil are - one to ignition and one to the kick down micro switch on the carbie. VE autos have an elecrical and vacuum kickdown systems.

So problem prevails.

I have 12 volts on the positive side of the coil. when I place a test lamp on the negative side I blow a fuse marked "coil" in the fuse box. I think because the test lamp is shorting out the system?

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:53 pm

in the morning I'll check main centre lead coil to centre dizzy on ohm meter.

module could be dashed? unlikely.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:08 pm

That is correct Tweety. When you touch the positive terminal it will light up the lamp, but if you touch the negative terminal with your lamp, which is Low impedance unlike a multimeter, you are false triggering your coil. No doubt the fuse is blowing because of excessive dwell time. Electronic ignition coils are less forgiving then the standard automotive coil of the era (due to primary winding resistance). What I would do If I were you is plug the spare distributor you mentioned into the wiring on your trike and give the shaft a flick with the ignition on. If you have the HT lead from the coil near a ground it should ark across as the reluctor points pass thru the magnet (and you would be surprised how slow you can spin it!).

If your spare distributor is incomplete, mark where your current distributor is positioned so you can put it back in the right spot. Remove the bolt holding it down, pull it up about half way and spin it, same as above.

If that still doesn't ark, I would guess that your ignition module inside the distributor has failed (join the club, I went thru 3 of them). Only way to test that properly is with an O-silly-scope.

If it does ark, but when you put it in the car and crank it, it stops working (Been in this club too) its probably still the ignition module, certainly was in my case.

Just quietly, breaker points FTW!

Regards

Doug