EA81 supercharger revamp by Tweety

[Bantum]

Cool nice to know ...

P.S. - I've just read though about a dozen or so pages and found this :



Still looking for more details on the AFM ...

Add : Just found this as well : http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/

& this page has the service manual for SPFI : http://jdfinley.com/downloads/SubaruEA8 ... lPart2.pdf

The manual is worth a read & if you can get hold of code reader & plug it into the ECU, it should be able tell you what error codes it may have, a tell tale as to what's not working & the possible fix ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

[steptoe]

What I have learned to appreciate with olde worlde Subaru efi wiring in their original installations is the test plugs about the place. Combined with original service manuals each terminator on each plug has a reading that can be checked and observed from these plugs for fault finding. Figure Fuji likely had a complete mate for the plugs to check with a master unit observing voltages, values etc as car rolls off assembly.....

[Tweety]

The guy that cleaned the tB yesterday said he had hooked up his computer to the test plugs to do the timing and it was out by a few degrees. wonder if I can hook up my standard timing light to do the same.???

[steptoe]

sure that you can hook up your timing light as normal and observe the outcome

[steptoe]

I had an EA82 mpfi throttle body to fit up on my mongrel EA82 the other day and paid a bit more attention to it and its orifices and it is likely much the same as yours function wise.

On the outside is two vacuum ports , one sucks from just above the throttle plate, the other from just below.
The fat screw-in fast idle control solenoid, 24mm spanner job, is simply a rubber ball tipped valve for an air bypass of the throttle plate, passage is about 6mm inside throttle body above the plate and enters plenum through the base - not back into throttle body tunnel itself. Is simply an on or off thing. Power on and plunger pulls up to open the circuit. The end of the adjuster screw is not even tapered as I imagined, just a square cut off rod set about 2.25 turns open from fully screwed in.

So, if you are still reading Tony and unnerstand , if you add power steering or AC this could be a handy fast idle circuit to include to help with the accessory load

[Subydoug]

Hmm, my first impression of that IACV was that it PWM'd the power to the solenoid giving it variable air for idle. Thinking about it now your probably right and its just an on/off thing.

Doug

[steptoe]

variable would have to be more complext than the 2 wire solenoid thing, a stepper motor type set up

[steptoe]

Hey Tony, if you go to download section and download the XT Vortex manuals section 2 & 3 and open it up and read the 88 page one 2.7 it explains a lot on how the efi system works with trouble codes and how to test things - for a Vortex.

Find same thing for 86 etc spfi factory shop manuals for US where your manifold likely came from and life should be simpler....

[Tweety]

got a link to that jonno? cant seem to find it

[Bantum]

Cool nice to know ...

P.S. - I've just read though about a dozen or so pages and found this :



Still looking for more details on the AFM ...

Add : Just found this as well : http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/

& this page has the service manual for SPFI : http://jdfinley.com/downloads/SubaruEA8 ... lPart2.pdf

The manual is worth a read & if you can get hold of code reader & plug it into the ECU, it should be able tell you what error codes it may have, a tell tale as to what's not working & the possible fix ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

[Tweety]

top work Bantum. I've got that diagram. I'll do some reading on the rotorcraft EFI

[steptoe]

nah, boys not that, on the front page you get before you sign in, or as you sign in, but before new posts....left hand side you will see downloads..pick from there. May not be relevant to spfi but it is a good intro tyo efi and test procedures...easy reading and informative with typical Japanese perfection - mostly.....

This page http://www.ausubaru.com/ under top left "site navigation", see below word "downloads" click on it to see what is available, pick out the 88 Vortex XT click on download, takes about ten minutes to dl to your computer.This one is US so has details on the ER27 flat six they got in XT6 Vortex

[Tweety]

I'm learning so much from internet searches.

from http://www.fixya.com/cars/t14138690-90_ ... ngine_miss

It is an answer to a question about the Coolant temperature sensor. This is how critical some sensors are to the good running of your computerised vehicle. Some of you know a lot about this but I dont and I'm learning the simple things about the system I have installed.

The simple solution will cost u about $20. Change out the Coolant temp sensor. Some people call them the master sensor,because they control so many things. Like the operation of your engine cooling fan, your on board computer takes readings off of this thing,and it not only controls your fan,but your FUEL. This little thing can cause all kinds of issues. Like over heating, running to rich or to lean. It can act like you have waterin your gas tank, or rotten varnish gas.it can drive you nuts. When you start hour motormin the morning this little sensor senses the temp ( of coarse) and tells the ECM the temp,in turn the ECM provides a richer fuel mixture when your car us cold.(modern choke if you will. The ECM also regulates how long the injector pulses are as well. As your engine warms up, this sensor tells the ECM, if it's working correctly,that the coolant is getting warmer as leans out your fuel mixture. This sensor can cause all kinds of havoc. Like it will start sometimes ok and at other times it won't or if it does it will be real heavy and want to die. Sometimes feathering the pedal will keep it alive but it will be stumbling to stay on and often die. Other times it will drive fine,then it will start bucking at all speeds,like it's loading up, or running to rich. This sensor can cause your engines fan not to come o. And cause overheating.it can also cause the fan to run when it shouldn't be. I had all of these problems,and rally thought that I hD some old gas a d it had started to varnish up everything, as my Subaru had sat for a couple of weeks while I changed out all of the wheel bearings.but after some detective work and a lot of reading I came to the conclusion that the culprit must be this sensor.I changed it out and now it runs great, and when I park it in the driveway and it reaches temp the driverside fan kicks on now. Can't remember the last time I heard it come on. Lol. The passenger side fan should come on when your AC is turned on, just so you know. And make sure when you put your filter cover and intake hose back on to get them on correctly, or you will get a resonating hum from hour air cleaner. The part is cheap, getting things out if the way to get to the sensor a little tuff, but it will I'm sure solve your problem. Good luck.

also this site is very interesting on effects of a faulty MAF. eg can make the air/fuel ratio poor. I think this is my issue on tweety

http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article ... ategy.aspx

[Tweety]

this thread on USMB has a few good comments particularly form the famous General Disorder.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/top ... -question/

[Tweety]

[Tweety]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/top ... -2?hl=spfi

timing....the last few comments here...to boost it to 28 degrees. I wont do it yet but sure does ask more questions.

[steptoe]

Tony, what are the letters that identify with each pin, embossed or cast into the plastic casing of the afm ?

[Subydoug]

I doubt advancing the timing like that will do much tony. I accidently set my vortex to 20deg (meant to be and drove it for a while. While it ran ok it was very jerky. When I realised what I had done was wrong I swapped it back and the car ran better. Smoother at low speeds. Just my experience.

Regards

Doug

[Bantum]

Ok - what exactly are we looking at here ?

I'm assuming that is the MAF ? It looks like a 'venturi' effect going on there ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

[Tweety]

There are two hot wires in the top hole Greg from the MAF. That is the housing.

Got the MAF today. Looked the same- looks can be deceiving.

Here is the one purchased first pic- the original one 2nd pic. One the face the numbers are identical. So are they the same? No.





the new one is the next pic. all numbers are the same. Note- the number 2 in the groove.



The next pic is the original one. you might not see it but where the number 2 was on the one above there is a number 1.



As they looked identical I tried fitting the purchased one. was really hard to get in the hole. So, thinking it is only a slight amount of plastic difference, grounded a little off the circumference. Still wouldnt go in. Then placed them together and look at the base of each of them in this pic.

Purchased on is the left. Note the base is larger. The original one the base fits in the hole.



For $30 plus $50 postage its not the end of the world financially- just very very frustrating and disappointing. Next step is to obtain a multimeter and test the original one. I'm not very happy though. This is beginning to be a saga.

86-94 SUBARU MASS AIR FLOW METER 22680 AA100 AFH38-01 both these units have this stamped on them. like I said one has a number 1 and one the number 2. means many people will buy it thinking it fits their alloy mount.