3at

[1983wagon]

G'day guys
Firstly want to say this forum is awesome and very addictive to read. I think I'm on this more than my Facebook which is a good thing.
Ok now as a few know. I am running a 3 speed auto with 4wd on my ea81. Now I am getting worried about all the negative comments I'm reading on other forums about them. It's only done 140,000 ks. I will be keeping it no matter what as I do not want to stuff around with a conversion now or mess around with its originality to much. I am currently rebuilding the engine and my question is... Is there anything I can do or not do to keep the auto running the best it can be. I no it's slow as bat **** and I do not mind as its not my daily. It will not be used off road but simply as a weekender.
I've only done about 50kms in it before I pulled it off the road but while I did drive it I noticed the only way it would go into third was if I let go of the accelerator so it could drop into third. If not it would just rev higher in second untill I did. And also when I test drove it i tried it with the 4x4 button, I would hear a knocking sound. Even when just driving straight. So I quickly turned it off as I didn't think it was doing to much good to the trans. I must stress other than that the auto is very smooth and no clunking into gear. The trans fluid was fine so you can rule that out.

If anyone has had any experience with these trans which may be rare than any tips or info would be great to hear as you have all been really helpful already.
Cheers, Evan

[TOONGA]

I know this was a one owner sleeper but do you know when the trans was last serviced, not just a fluid change a complete service? How are you checking the transmission fluid hot in neutral with the engine running or stopped cold? these boxes hold alot of fluid, 6.4 litres according to the FSM. available here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/

the 3EAT is a mechanical automatic transmission (no computer) given the age of the box the internals (even with low KMs) will have wear, which could be leading to the shift problem into 3rd.

the band could be worn or the duty solenoid(s) or both. If you know how to adjust the tension for the band that may help, otherwise you will need to seek out an honest auto trans mechanic.

Is the fluid new or does it look new, as I have asked people this question before and while it may look good on the dipstick when placed on a white tissue it was anything but the nice red colour it should have been.

TOONGA

[steptoe]

so it ain't got an E in its name then Jules ...3AT looked like Jat to "adjusting to inside light eyes" for a moment ...it's a JATCO box for sure. I had one FWD auto, never drove it, one 4WD3AT in my Turbo L sedan and it bloody held onto 2nd until I lifted foot off loud pedal too. Was pretty annoying trying to drive like a tear arse Tommy in his turbo !

I never pulled the pan off to service it, I never added Nulon G60, just kept cleanish fluid look on the dickstick up to correct level.Car had 188,000 on it when I got it, did 20,000 on the auto like that never gave up on me.

Only when I pulled it out to add a 5sp 4WD box I found a service or rather a transmission specialists sticker up on the body where only could be stuck on if it was out of car - suspect it was a 'rebuild'. Given condition of car when I got it - saved from a wrecker wrecking more bits off it- figured not the most loved car and the cooked engine - may not have had much care in its later years before I got it.

Further to only when I pulled it out did I find at the low side of its body, rhs up front, two? bolt on things , actually one was screw in, with a fibre washer? was not even finger tight - source of fluid leak, maybe even a pressure leak, maybe a stuffed diafragem. Think this had a vacuum attachment up to inlet manifold. Given vacuum changes have something to happen when you change gears - may have been the problem for not shifting up with second flat stick ? Same problem for you there ?

Old cars always gunna be suck it and see....

B R E A T H E .........

When you selected 4WD you have engaged tailshaft contains uni joints that go dry, rust, seize, wear roller marks into insides of cups - one each end, rear diff and then two axles both with a double off set joint each end - the noise coulda come from these. Tailshaft unis sort of make a ting ting noise that changes between FWD and 4WD in manuals anyway



And...of the possible 42 possibilitis listed in the L manual auto box trouble shoot chart - this unwilling to shift from 2nd up to 3rd (top) while foot is on accy pedal - is not listed

[Bantum]

Yep, I've have had the same thing happen in my beast, you'd have to rev the tit's off it to get it to change gears sometimes, so I took it to a friendly auto mechanic and he adjusted the 'bands' for us - it seems to have done the trick ...

I think he also replaced the kick down solenoid, as they are prone to corruption ...

Another tip is to 'down shift' by selecting second while braking, works a treat using the engine as a brake ...

P.S. - If you haven't already, it might be worth changing the fluid as it has been sitting around for a while & may have deteriorated ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

[Subydoug]

How hard are you holding your foot down? Mine shifted beautifully and kickback was good to. There are some electronics involved with the tranny. There is a switch on the throttle and if your holding that in it won't shift up. Mine had around 350k on it. The other thing to check is all the vacuum lines going to the tranny are fine. That's how it determines how much load is on the motor. If that line is disconnected it won't shift. If you need any parts yell out as I have mine sitting out the back. Correct way to check tranny fluid is to warm up car. Shift into drive, shift out of drive then check it.

Regards

Doug

[1983wagon]

Not holding my foot down hard at all. Just normal acceleration. But if I'm accelaerating to 60 from stop than I will have to slightly let go of accelerator (not fully) than it will kick up to 3rd. I think the band adjustment and solenoid sounds logical... The down shifting seems fine. As the car is 30 years old i think you may be on the money steptoe in regards to the 4x4 noise. Once the engines done i might just take it to a trans specialist get him to go over the whole lot and a full service. Thanks for the info and quick responses guys:)
Cheers

[Silverbullet]

In regards to 4x4 you should remember to never engage it unless you are off road, lest your axles wind up and cause serious damage. Also I could be wrong but I'm quite certain the rear axles, diff and tail shaft are always spinning (just free wheeling) even when 4WD isn't engaged.

There's quite a few auto specialists in Adelaide, shouldn't be hard to find someone who can have a look at it for you.

[Subydoug]

Correct, tailshaft spins regardless of if your in 4x4 or not. Thats why you can ingage 4wd while moving, otherwise you whould have to completely stop to pull it in.

Doug

[TOONGA]

Yeah my bad so used to writing the "E" in the auto bit ...

Make sure the guy knows subaru boxes, otherwise there will be phone call after phone as the price of the service heads past the roof.

TOONGA

[tambox]

Another common problem that kills old auto's is the seal between the diff and the gearbox leaks. This lets auto fluid into the diff. Check the diff oil for level and colour, if it is above full, there is a fair chance it has scored some ATF.
Rubbers go hard with age and little use.

[NachaLuva]

Glad you're sticking with the 3AT & keeping it original

Hope its just some adjustment & new vacuum hoses etc

[steptoe]

Things change with some of the rear drive components between free spinning while in FWD and with load/torque with 4WD engaged. My 3AT also had chatter when in 4WD, on dirt or grass when turning such as a U turn or the like. The manual suggests if you get this, drain off approx 3 litres ATF and replenish with new. The idea of G60 is to treat and soften the o rings and seals with use. May save or put off a rebuild.

I have no idea how an auto tranny works, but when I read a band tightening and a solenoid fixed similar problem I might try to do it in reverse - replace the solenoid then try, see if it really needs its bands done. There are pressure test plugs , three, I think, designed to be tapped into and driven with an oil pressure gauge visble to driver or underfloor mechanic zip tied in place or a camera and compared to a set of figures.