Rebuilding an ea82

jims · Post by **jims** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:48 pm

Do you mean you ground the head back of the nut and then placed the head end in? It had a little lip on it a guess? Then is it just a matter of yanking the thing out?

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:13 pm

jims wrote:Do you mean you ground the head back of the nut and then placed the head end in? It had a little lip on it a guess? Then is it just a matter of yanking the thing out?

Yeah, here are some photo's:

This was the first attempt. I ground too much off and it would slide over the lip of the pin too easily to get it to move.

This is the second attempt. I had a gudgeon pin out to trial it. I left as much as i could of the head of the bolt there but still be able to get it down the inside diameter of the gudgeon pin.

This is the final product. I had to dislodge the gudgeon pin slightly with the smaller end to allow the second end to grab on. I drilled an 8mm hole in a piece of scrap metal i had to make it a slide hammer. I had to get a FBH hammer and hit the slide hammer to get the really stuck ones out. I used some wooden cooking skewers to jam the bolt in there and stop the bolt head sliding up and over the lip. The skewers worked best as you could jam them in but they would come back out too if needed.

jims · Post by **jims** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:17 pm

Where the pistons still in the engine at that stage?

Is that the gudgeon pin on your tool there?

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:21 pm

jims wrote:Where the pistons still in the engine at that stage?

Is that the gudgeon pin on your tool there?

Yes they were, stick the bolt in the access hole to pull the gudgeon pins out. You can't split the block with any pistons still on the conrods.

It's not a gudgeon pin on the tool, just a bit of scrap metal i had to create some weight/force for a slide hammer. I stuck the two bolts together with a nut and pounded the scrap metal...

jims · Post by **jims** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:26 pm

Ah I see, thanks! Will give that a go

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:32 pm

That's the way to do it, don't be surprised if they don't slide out easily. a couple of my EA81 pins were so stuck I had to clamp the engine to my bench and whack the absolute living crap out of my slide hammer before they would budge.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:03 pm

Gonna have to get on to IP Australia over getting my pin puller patented before any more copy it

I know genuine EA81 gudgeon pins had a bloody annoying ridge in the centre that will catch your tool if its diameter is the same as the main ID of the pin, so tool pick has to be slighly smaller, and you have to visualise the gaps of the clip that allow your tool tip slip through and over the edge of the pin, using some oposite direction force, yes say with chop sticks or skewers.. I've dragged an EA81 block around the shed floor by its gudgeon pins.
I used a head bolt from an EA Falcon slowly ground down to fit - just like the copy above in the pics

jims · Post by **jims** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:14 pm

Done

Here is what I ended up using:

[ATTACH]3830[/ATTACH]

Ground a little hook into the end and then just slid that metal piece for all my worth.

Thanks for all the info guys, wouldn't have got it done otherwise...especially without Ron's help.

They were stuck in there pretty good but they did all come out. Very satisfying.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 12:40 am

I love the ingenuity that everyone has in making the tools they require to do this job. We made an attachment for our slide hammer that did the job well

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

tony · Post by **tony** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:09 am

I used a Loxin or similar bolt that fitted snugly through the centre of the pin. push it in and tighten the bolt up as tight as you can, then lever the lot through. put a washer under the head to lever on.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:39 am

Jim, you had it too easy with that tool making ! My first attempt was similar to tony - tried expanding Ramset bolt type bolt inside and went through a lot of grinding to get mine right. Have also been lucky with my first engine - they came out just by shoving in a screwdriver and slide out !

jims · Post by **jims** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:07 pm

I got the block split today. Removed the crank and main seals and then the pistons.

I have a couple of questions though. I started the clean up the piston heads with a soft wire brush attachment on a drill. I did one and then thought I should first just ask to see of this is okay to use this method?

[ATTACH]3832[/ATTACH]

Also, some of you suggested changing out the main bearings once I split the block. Are these main bearing the front/rear and centre crankshaft bearings?

Cheers,
James

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:37 pm

well, I used to use steel wool on the sides and wire brush on tops, and a broken ring (break one if you don't have one yet ) to clean out the ring grooves/lands etc.

What is with the pitting / fang marks?

You might wanna try my label method - zip ties
red for one , two for blue, three is green and four yellow - easy to remember , one & red same number of letters, two and blue rhyme in English, three and green both got double ee, yellow has most number of letters so it goes on four.

Reassemble ya just snip 'em off as you go

jims · Post by **jims** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:01 pm

Those marks are on all the pistons. Says something you can't quite make out in the picture. A number and letter I think, can't quite remember.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:04 am

jims wrote:Also, some of you suggested changing out the main bearings once I split the block. Are these main bearing the front/rear and centre crankshaft bearings?

Yep they're the main bearings. Also do the big end bearings - the ones on that the connector rods (con rods) are "holding" onto the crank with - these are probably more important than the main bearings in the grand scheme of things.

Get the crank mic'd up and see what you've got then check the specs. I didn't have to put oversized bearings in an EA build I did a few years ago and there was 300k+ km on that engine!

Cheers

Bennie

jims · Post by **jims** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:34 pm

Yay! The engine is completely broken down and cleaned up now right back to crankshaft. Time to start ordering parts

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:36 pm

's'a wonder Bennie hasn't suggested ordering an EJ

jims · Post by **jims** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:02 pm

I'm just finalising my parts order but I'm debating whether or not I will buy all new lifters. I can get them from the US for $100 plus postage. Opinions? I would like to save the money if I can but am I likely to regret it? How vital do you think this is?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:25 am

vital for your sanity - such a bitch to get at them if they fail - they've done 200 and you want another 200. many will have done rebuilds without replacing. work out how long it takes to earn that hundred and how long it would take you to replac them .....

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:56 pm

Havent been on here for a while so I am catchin up,
Re new lifters, have a look at my thread titled
"EA82 engine knock/tick"
The 4 lifters I replaced on the drivers side head have now been in for 3 or 4 thousand ks and all is quiet. I cant fault them at all.
Details are-
Bought from REPCO for $18.50 (not a typo either, the price is correct)
Nason (brand) hydraulic lash adjuster/Tappet
Part No RHT6400
I suggest going to REPCO and asking them what the correct part number is and when they do this compare it to the part number above.
This means if you order the lifters and the wrong ones come in it wont be your fault for giving them the part number.