Brumby rear wheel drive

ausbrumby · Post by **ausbrumby** » Fri May 11, 2012 9:46 am

Just wondering of some possible ways to make my Brumby a rwd?
Cheers

purp · Post by **purp** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:47 am

Take out the front drive shafts and put it in 4WD?

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:52 am

purp wrote:Take out the front drive shafts and put it in 4WD?

except this would only make it 50% drive.
there is a way of doing it, not sure have you tried searching the forum?

chridk · Post by **chridk** » Fri May 11, 2012 4:23 pm

I drove my brumby with no front shafts in 4WD for 5 years with no drama's

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Fri May 11, 2012 4:28 pm

chridk wrote:I drove my brumby with no front shafts in 4WD for 5 years with no drama's

but wouldnt you only have 50% of the power to the wheels?

purp · Post by **purp** » Fri May 11, 2012 5:22 pm

thunder039 wrote:but wouldnt you only have 50% of the power to the wheels?

The centre diff is locked solid, 50% of power to front and 50% to back. But that is the theoretical split if all wheels have he same traction. If, for example the front two wheels were on ice and the rear on tar and you floored the accelerator, the front would spin, but the rear would grip and move the car. If the centre was a totally open diff, like the front and rear, then the front would spin and the rear would grip, then all the power would go to the front and the car wouldn't move.
Likewise, if the centre diff were and open diff and the front drive shafts were removed (or even just one of them) the car wouldn't move...

So with the drive shafts removed, a tiny fraction of the power is being used to spin the stubs on the gearbox and the diff, but all the rest is going in to the rear of the drive train.

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri May 11, 2012 5:23 pm

thunder039 wrote:but wouldnt you only have 50% of the power to the wheels?

no, they are normally fwd and you dont lose 50% then, no different to being in 4wd without a front drive shaft. its a direct power transfer front and rear wheels, ie front and rear are locked together in 4wd normally. the diffs are open, not the box.

you will need to dismantle the outer cv joint and leave splined shaft in and bolted up (the bit the castle nut bolts on to). otherwise you might find your front wheels going a different direction to the rest of your car...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri May 11, 2012 6:32 pm

thunder039 wrote:but wouldnt you only have 50% of the power to the wheels?

100% to the rear, 0% to the front. He's simply shifting which wheels are driven. When in front wheel drive mode the front has 100% and the rear gets 0%.

Cheers

Bennie

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Fri May 11, 2012 7:23 pm

ok thanks i didnt relise the center diff was an open diff in the old 4wd subaru's

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri May 11, 2012 7:26 pm

its not open. it is direct transfer. no slip front or rear, which is why you shouldn't run 4wd on the bitumen in the old subies.

in other words there is no centre diff. its either engaged or not engaged.

Post by **Alex** » Fri May 11, 2012 7:28 pm

MTB92 wrote:its not open. it is direct transfer. no slip front or rear, which is why you shouldn't run 4wd on the bitumen in the old subies.

in other words there is no centre diff. its either engaged or not engaged.

Trust what this guy says.

Sent from my HTC Velocity 4G using Tapatalk 2

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri May 11, 2012 8:40 pm

1 Find 2 flogged out outer CV joints to suit a brumby (outer only) ensure they have good thread for the castle nut

2.remove your complete shafts and store for a later date

3 insert outer CV's

4 put the hi lo lever into high range (not low as this defeats the purpose)

5 drive your rear wheel drive brumby

(6 replace rear diff after around 6 months of solid driving)

TOONGA

stenno · Post by **stenno** » Fri May 11, 2012 9:04 pm

Step 5.5 reinforce rear diff mount and upgrade front diff mount bush.
Step 6 do skids.
Step 7 win?

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:14 pm

stenno wrote:
Step 6 do skids.

LOL . Love it !

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat May 12, 2012 12:17 am

stenno wrote:Step 6 do skids.
Step 7 win?

Step 6 - these skids you talk of - are they in your pants after you drop the clutch and leave your rear end bits all over the ground while trying to hang a wheelie??

Step 7 win? Well, the ? is correct!

Cheers

Bennie

ausbrumby · Post by **ausbrumby** » Sat May 12, 2012 9:34 am

Do your pretty much saying if I run it in 4wd without front shafts, I will break stuff?

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Sat May 12, 2012 9:49 am

ausbrumby wrote:Do your pretty much saying if I run it in 4wd without front shafts, I will break stuff?

no, then you will have a rear wheel drive brumby.

if you run it 4wd WITH front drive shafts, on the bitumen in the dry for a decent length of time you could break something.

if you want rwd, just follow the instructions above!

just to make sure you understand it; you must leave (or replace) the part of the shaft that goes through the wheel with the castle nut on it through the front hub. that is what holds your front hubs, disk and wheel on. you do this by taking apart the outer cv.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sat May 12, 2012 10:49 am

ok thanks for the clarrification learn something everday! thats why i love the forum

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun May 13, 2012 9:37 pm

ausbrumby wrote:Do your pretty much saying if I run it in 4wd without front shafts, I will break stuff?

Depends on how you drive it. That's basically what it comes down to. If you flog it but keep up with checks on the rear end and replacing/reinforcing anything that's worn you should be right. Should being the operative word!

I'd also double your diff hanger, the "moustache" bar. Get another one, cut the ends off and stitch weld it top and bottom to your current one (removed from the vehicle for the work).

Cheers

Bennie

Bradenrm · Post by **Bradenrm** » Sun May 13, 2012 11:04 pm

Hmm, got a front cv on the way out in mine..........