centreing L struts in MY towers

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steptoe
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centreing L struts in MY towers

Post by steptoe » Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:31 pm

OK, how is it done correctly ? Set up a jig to mark centre of MY strut top centre then fit L roughly to mark ?

Thinking need to make template with both MY and L strut mount stud holes to act as a drilling template.

Noticed the hump of the Brumbys top from under bonnet side , sits more jammed in to the rear of the strut tower hole, not centred.

Still yet to even mesure the rubber hump on either .

Any hole drilled in tower for L strut studs will need to be strengthened same as some mod kits are with a thick washer

Only thinking at the moment

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Post by steptoe » Thu May 03, 2012 9:35 pm

No clues ? No tips ?

It dawned on me that the MY two stud top plates are used on the L Series struts ....maybe ??? Matt ? You got two or three studs on your L equipped beast ?

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Thu May 10, 2012 1:12 am

Jonno.. What are you trying to achieve? Why L struts in a MY? aren't the bottom sections the same? just different tops??
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Post by steptoe » Thu May 10, 2012 8:44 am

achieve front L Series 4WD brakes and no camber / \ \ / problems as others have experienced with swapping in L brakes and other bits.

First got idea conversion used L struts and their top mount with three studs over the MY two studs, so need an install of some accuracy - drilling three holes and reinforcement.

Then got a note from nncoolg to say he once had MY with L front discs and not even changed CVs - the bearing smooths on CV outer distance is different between L and MY, L is wider. Nev thinks he may have swapped in a different seal at back of L hubs to counter the different size cone the L hubs were used to compared to the MY shafts Nev retained

A few other threads on this so info will be scattered :)

Phiz and subybrumby both had dramas, both ditched and went back to MY stuff I think, Trev did, I recall. Matt has L stuff in his blue beast previous owner installed and has no issues, also has some lift.

Phiz says he found an angle of the dangle difference between MY and L hubs where strut dropped in, Matt felt the problem may have ben resolved if L strut was used , maybe L hub difference was made up in L strut, but once pulled a strut apart, realise they are tubes and pistons and straight as a die so no correcting angle here ! L Series top mounts may be bettr due to a bearing instead of MY rubber bush and washers of sinterd bronze ? bearing thingys ??

Should have thought Paul would know too.....

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Post by discopotato03 » Thu May 10, 2012 3:06 pm

The delux option would be a coilover conversion using smaller diameter springs and mounts so you have more room in the towers to get the camber/caster - better . This also involves adjustable strut tops with spherical bearings .
Can cost a bit but it solves most of the problems as well .

A .

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Post by revmax » Thu May 10, 2012 4:31 pm

watching and hopeing you get it sorted.
"THE BRUMBY ! , Your not taking the Brumby I just dry cleaned the mud flaps."
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
"B5" 92 Brumby (sold it)
"B6" 88 Beige Brumby
"W1" 83 wagon 308,000 AC and alot of rust repairs. (Wanda)
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Post by RSR 555 » Fri May 11, 2012 1:37 am

Ok. I'd never tried this combo but you're going through all this just to get L front brakes on a MY? I'm guessing that making a dogbone is out of the question?
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Post by steptoe » Fri May 11, 2012 9:20 am

absolutely, out of the question ....your turn to be on drugs of some kind ??

DoubleU Tee Eff is a dogbone , and how does it apply to front brakes ?

Just thinking in prep for presenting a EA82T'd Brumby for engineering approval,

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Fri May 11, 2012 2:10 pm

steptoe wrote:absolutely, out of the question ....your turn to be on drugs of some kind ??

DoubleU Tee Eff is a dogbone , and how does it apply to front brakes ?

Just thinking in prep for presenting a EA82T'd Brumby for engineering approval,
Why is it out of the question? I think this would be a lot easier than trying to make strut tops.

A dogbone is an adapter piece to make room for larger discs and/or larger calipers
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You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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revmax
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Post by revmax » Fri May 11, 2012 5:56 pm

Dogbone HMMM ! getting some ideas.
I have a couple of spare Brumby struts n wheel hubs and some L discs and calapers to play with

Hey I was in Rockingham 2 weeks ago.
"THE BRUMBY ! , Your not taking the Brumby I just dry cleaned the mud flaps."
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
"B5" 92 Brumby (sold it)
"B6" 88 Beige Brumby
"W1" 83 wagon 308,000 AC and alot of rust repairs. (Wanda)
Brumby Trailer (Sulky)
LUV THAT BRUM !
RevMax Hobbies

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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Venom
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Post by Venom » Fri May 11, 2012 6:36 pm

Does it require upgraded brakes?

Talk to your engineer first. Even if it fails the examination (which it will), you get as much time as you like to address the issues.

changing the brakes to something other than stock means a mandatory brake test, which adds 3-400 to engineering depending on who does it. Just the engine conversion certificate is 600-800. Adds up to alot when it might pass with stock brakes and no brake test.
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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Fri May 11, 2012 10:01 pm

was out of the question coz I had no idea what the dogbone was . Hmmm....
Race is on Carl !!

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