ej20 turbo into Brumby (condensed version)

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:27 am

El_Freddo wrote:I'm interested to know what sort of brakes you're running or going to be running

Cheers

Bennie

I am just running the origanal discs and drums, I have Bendix Ultimate pads on the front and that works well. Even though the car goes well I don't reackon it "needs" any more brakes, although when I replace the disc rotors I will get slotted ones for that little extra bite.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:43 am

With the stock brakes will it pass engineering? Or are you not bothering with this? I'm only curious as I've got a plan for an L series brewing

Cheers

Bennie

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:55 am

The engineer said it was OK. I don't know what the actual rule is about brake anymore, the only thing I do know is that on other conversions I have done if the car was drum brake on the front they have asked for discs but no size of disc has been stipulated. I did a SR20 turbo into a MK1 escort years ago which made 250hp at wheels in a 900kg car and all they asked for was some sort of discs and a colapsable steering collom. I chose to put 330mm discs 4 spot calipers up front and discs on rear aswell but I was surprised at how little they asked for.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:24 pm

^ That's awesome VB! Hope it doesn't give you trouble further down the track though. The disc/drum combo is pretty poor if not very well maintained!

I priced up a set of front slotted discs for the L series - they came in at about $140 for ONE disc! They no longer produce the slotted units from the factory so it would have been a special order. Needless to say I've stuck with stock rotors.

If you could, the RX rear disc conversion is well worth the effort!

Cheers

Bennie

sammynb · Post by **sammynb** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:56 pm

$140 a disc isn't bad.
DBA want $170 as a special order and RDA want $431.20 for a set of rears!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Subaru-L-SER ... 150wt_1140

You can buy them on ebay from the states for about $110 each but they want almost $500 to ship them!!!

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:31 pm

Just an update. I have put a new gearbox in my brumby because I forgot to check the front diff oil when I took it out of the half cut and the diff chewed itself up within 15k's. It was easier to swap the gearbox than rebuild diff. I had to give my first born son and a night with my wife as payment to a wrecker for the box:( Ended up using a '97 forester box so I could keep the 4.44 gears. Got the tailshaft balanced and it still vibrates so I will have to think about that a bit. Need a pair of heavier front springs if anyone has some, the new motor and box is fair bit heavier than the EA81 so need to balance that out.

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 3:00 pm

Well it just keeps getting better, after putting the new gearbox in it has started making a noise that sounds like the torque converter. Box works fine and it does not make the noise in overdrive. The result is that I hate this car with every bone in my body now, I have spent a fortune, cut the end of fingers off and also dislocated my elbow doing the box swap and now I have to fix whatever this problem is:mad: If it was worth something in this state I would sell it. Boo Hoo for me 'ey.

chridk · Post by **chridk** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:47 pm

Have you considered going for a manual g/box, I'm not a fan of auto's. Hope you get it worked out mate.
good luck with it
Cheers Chridk

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 6:02 pm

I have thought about it but I have spent so much time and money that I don't want to do it all over again. I really just wanted to have a dummy spit, it was either post here or kick the dog and the dog bites me if I kick it.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 7:33 pm

Here's the thing that hurts the most VB - you've gone the distance, done all the hard work and now this hurdle is about to break you. If you sell it someone's going to get a great deal that you might regret later.

I've seen this happen many many times before

Stick with it and you'll love it! Or give it to me for 6 months and see how you feel in that time, if you don't miss it I'll keep it for you

Cheers

Bennie

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:21 pm

Thanks Freddo, your right obviously. I do enjoy it now really, it has all the features I am after but man does it P me off that I gotta take that lump of gearbox out again. I might ask a mate that has a hoist if i can do it at his place, at least it will be a bit easier.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 1:19 am

velocityboy wrote: I might ask a mate that has a hoist if i can do it at his place, at least it will be a bit easier.

Everyone should have a mate with a hoist or a pit... Or be that mate!

Manual conversion!!

Cheers

Bennie

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 11:12 am

(img)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us/(img) Just an update, have put a new set of wheels on the brumby that I bought a few mounths ago. They are 14x6 alloys that I have polished and painted. Have also painted the sils white, the black sils that were on it looked dodgy to me. It's all well except the intercooler pump has failed and I am waiting for a new one to arrive. I am selling the 14" sunraisers that were on it, will list them in the classifieds.

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:54 pm

Wheels look great, hit the roo bar with some brasso, best alloy polish out there & it'll come up like chrome.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:19 pm

velocityboy wrote:IMG]http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7962/dsc09993r.jpg[/IMG]

Good looking brumby there! Is the the one with the conversion?

Cheers

Bennie

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 7:13 am

Thanks guys, yes it is the one with the conversion. I keep changing the look of it because I wasn't happy with the way I first had it but I like it now so will leave it alone. I enjoy the stage it's at now where I just do little jobs on it now and then, the next thing I want to do is make some ladder racks and put some new carpet in it. Also trying to organise a mate of mine to come and hold my hand on my first 4x4 trip soon.

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:56 pm

Have done a few things lately. The air flow metre has been playing up so I fitted a new one, problem fixed. Got a full 2 1/2" exhaust fitted so it sounds awesome now. I put a boost gauge on it because I suspected it was not making much boost in standard form, I was right only 5 lbs so I bought a cheap bleed valve (boost controller) and now I have it set at 12 lbs. WooHoo!!!

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:46 pm

Have you got the factory boost control solenoid hooked up? If you have the wastegate hooked straight to the compressor outlet, it will only make about 6psi. But with the solenoid hooked up, I think it should be about 11psi

stenno · Post by **stenno** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:05 am

Restrictor pill missing in the vacuum hose? But yeh 12 psi feels heaps different to 5-6

velocityboy · Post by **velocityboy** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:42 pm

It was origanaly hooked up to the factory solinoid when it made 6lbs. I have disconnected it and put a boost controller between the turbo outlet and wastegate. I have not heard of a factory "pill" to control boost and I can't see one. There is what looks like a check valve between the turbo outlet and the factory boost solenoid, it olny allows air to only flow one way and it was working correctly. The low boost may have been because the speed sensor I have used is telling the car it is going a lot faster than than it is but the gearbox speed sensor is telling it a different speed. I wouldn't be surprised if this is enough to confuse the ECU and it therefore was keeping boost at a low "safe" level. I am building a speedo corrector that will fix this problem.