Lift Option for a Foz...

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 2:41 pm

looks good whoes forester is that?

JPM · Post by **JPM** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:09 pm

It could be yours...

http://perth.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehi ... Z355885899

Regards
Jayd

taza · Post by **taza** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:08 pm

Im thinking im gonna make mine that high

Then on the future never ending mod list: bullbar, rear bar, lsd's, centre lock, better brakes, snorkel, and a heap of more stuff... lol

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:04 am

how many inch does that foz have?

taza · Post by **taza** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:24 pm

thunder039 wrote:how many inch does that foz have?

4.5" in total.
1" raised hd springs, 2" strut lift blocks and 1.5" from tyres.

That's what I plan to do!

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 4:00 pm

very nice indeed

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:14 pm

For the record my experience wasn't entirely because of a lack of down travel, it was more due to heavy duty springs with no weight in the back end.

I was running 3" strut, 2" body and HD springs and went through a few cv boots.

With my outback I plan on running 2" strut, 2" body spacers (additional 2" to the current standard spaces which they're replacing) and the HD springs because I pretty much always have extra load.

I'm running body spacers to even out that geometery and improve wear and tear on the suspension.

taza · Post by **taza** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:32 pm

ScubyRoo wrote:For the record my experience wasn't entirely because of a lack of down travel, it was more due to heavy duty springs with no weight in the back end.

I was running 3" strut, 2" body and HD springs and went through a few cv boots.

With my outback I plan on running 2" strut, 2" body spacers (additional 2" to the current standard spaces which they're replacing) and the HD springs because I pretty much always have extra load.

I'm running body spacers to even out that geometery and improve wear and tear on the suspension.

How often would you say? Every 50,000km? Is it more the boots or the CV joints them selfs that wear out?

Is 3" worth it, CV wise?

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:42 am

It was the boots and I went through 3 (1 front outer, 1 front inner) and 1 rear in 2 months - they weren't 'subaru' brand but they weren't crap either. Keep in mind that while I had 3" strut tops there was also a full 2" body lift, so the CV's where only an inch from stock.

Is 3" worth it? Depends on what you're willing to compromise on! Look at Venom's liberty, it get's through everything with 'only' at 2" full body and strut spacers and 27s... Clearance is only half the issue, solving open diffs and overhanging bumpers are just as, if not more improtant!

If you want to avoid CV wear then run body spacers...

taza · Post by **taza** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:57 am

ScubyRoo wrote:It was the boots and I went through 3 (1 front outer, 1 front inner) and 1 rear in 2 months - they weren't 'subaru' brand but they weren't crap either. Keep in mind that while I had 3" strut tops there was also a full 2" body lift, so the CV's where only an inch from stock.

Is 3" worth it? Depends on what you're willing to compromise on! Look at Venom's liberty, it get's through everything with 'only' at 2" full body and strut spacers and 27s... Clearance is only half the issue, solving open diffs and overhanging bumpers are just as, if not more improtant!

If you want to avoid CV wear then run body spacers...

So only 1" strut lift and the rest body lift if im understanding?

I am finding that my rear approach and departure angles are pretty average and a rearbar is expensive unless home made.
So more lift and it will help atleast some what

I was thinking if my boots go I will get heavy duty lifted Hilux boots, seen them done on other subies with lots of lift and great success.
Ive currently done 30,000km in the foz with my 2" strut lift and have only had one boot go. Still stock CV's (170,000km). Im thinking 1" more couldn't hurt too much as the angles don't seem as steep as on Outbacks (gen 3).

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:07 am

Those hilux boots sound like a good idea!

The strut tops were 3" spacers. The body spacers where 2". That meant that in relation to the hubs the body was 3" higher, in relation to the crossmembers 2". So the difference between gearbox and hub is only 1" higher than stock, however the whole get up is still 2 or 3" higher from the ground.

If you only have strut spacers (say 2") without body spacers, the body is 2" higher than the hubs, and 0" at the crossmembers, creating a greater angle between the gearbox and the hub - this is where the wear comes from.

Don't forget that only using strut spacers also affects the travel geometry of the hub in relation to the front A-arm (aka control arm) and rear trailing arm, neither of which move laterly like the drive shafts do so watch those bushes for accellerated wear

I guess lift it as you want and if you get wear on your componentry quicker than you are satisified with then put body spacers in

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:18 am

taza wrote:So only 1" strut lift and the rest body lift if im understanding?

Nah mate, I had 3" strut lift. I then had 2" body lift. This meant there was only one inch difference from stock in the relationship between the hub and the gearbox, while the body was 3" higher than stock, the drivetrain's crossmembers where only 1" higher.

If you only have strut spacers (say 2") without body spacers, the body is 2" higher than the hubs, and 0" (no spacers) at the crossmembers, which results in greater angle between the gearbox and the hub - this is where the wear comes from. If you put HD springs into it as well, then you're looking at almost 3" of difference which is significant and might make it hard to get a good wheel alignment (can any verfy this?).

taza wrote: I am finding that my rear approach and departure angles are pretty average and a rearbar is expensive unless home made.

You better get busy then!

taza wrote: I was thinking if my boots go I will get heavy duty lifted Hilux boots, seen them done on other subies with lots of lift and great success.
Ive currently done 30,000km in the foz with my 2" strut lift and have only had one boot go. Still stock CV's (170,000km). Im thinking 1" more couldn't hurt too much as the angles don't seem as steep as on Outbacks (gen 3).

Don't forget that only using strut spacers also affects the travel geometry of the hub in relation to the front A-arm (aka control arm) and rear trailing arm, neither of which move laterly like the drive shafts do so watch those bushes for accellerated wear

I guess lift it as you want and if you get wear on your componentry quicker than you are satisified with then put body spacers in

Those hilux boots sound like a good idea!

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:34 am

i was told by a cv guy that cv's tend to let go after lifting due to changing the angle they're used to running in and that once you've lifted a car alot they'll let go but once you replace them with new ones that will run at the same angles from new you wont have as much of an issue.... not sure if he was just trying to weazle me into buying some new ones instead of boots of him but thats what he'd learnt from experience..

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:49 pm

In my experience , the best way to lift any subaru is, two inch full lift kit. That way drive train and cv's are at the same angles. Then with liberty, foresters , etc , they let you put one more inch in the towers . Eg - once raised springs, three inch strut tops instead of two inch. The reason why , unlike the brumbys and M.Y's there is less angle on the drive shafts . By putting the lift kit in, drive shaft are at same angle as normal. Then by adding the the one ince extra , it does change the angle in the drive shafts, but still not as much as the standard brumby is . And most imporantly , you have adjustment for wheel aligment .

But that is just what i have found.

taza · Post by **taza** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 6:00 pm

rtcb65 wrote:In my experience , the best way to lift any subaru is, two inch full lift kit. That way drive train and cv's are at the same angles. Then with liberty, foresters , etc , they let you put one more inch in the towers . Eg - once raised springs, three inch strut tops instead of two inch. The reason why , unlike the brumbys and M.Y's there is less angle on the drive shafts . By putting the lift kit in, drive shaft are at same angle as normal. Then by adding the the one ince extra , it does change the angle in the drive shafts, but still not as much as the standard brumby is . And most imporantly , you have adjustment for wheel aligment .

But that is just what i have found.

But the think if you don't gain clearance at the sump or diffs, which is where I need/want the clearance. With a full body lift you don't get that.

I prett much have my mind on keeping my raised springs, removing the 1" strut lift blocks and putting 2" blocks in. So 25mm more all round and then if I have CV issue put 30mm body spacers in all round. Atleast then I would keep the body clearance of the extra 25mm but have the same as I currently have under the whole car.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:39 pm

i was lookig at buying some 1 inch strut spacers from subtle solutions. was wondering people experience with them? or are there a better option for the spacers?
i also i noticed they only have 1 inch availble from there website, do they make 2 inch aswell?

taza · Post by **taza** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:07 pm

thunder039 wrote:i was lookig at buying some 1 inch strut spacers from subtle solutions. was wondering people experience with them? or are there a better option for the spacers?
i also i noticed they only have 1 inch availble from there website, do they make 2 inch aswell?

I might be selling my 1" blocks. They are Subtle Solutions ones.
The service is great and postage is pretty quick from the US.
Bodge does 2" blocks but know one is able to get a hold of him....
Don't get plastic ones or stack multiple blocks as thats dangerous.

Oh aa quick quesion mate, have you solved your steering wheel wobble? I think I might of bent a strut.... Just to top off the F**Ked gearbox, engine and bumpers... lol

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:16 pm

im sourcing a new strut over the next 2 weeks to replace it, there was about 5mm difference in the right and left wheel at the top of the wheel to the shocker

will hopefully have it back on the road driving straight by the 19th.
i think i like the idea of the 1 inch blocks will keep it at a safe hieght from cv stress.
when you take yours out PM me and i will let you know as im interested if i havnt already ordered some from the us.

taza · Post by **taza** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:35 pm

thunder039 wrote:im sourcing a new strut over the next 2 weeks to replace it, there was about 5mm difference in the right and left wheel at the top of the wheel to the shocker
will hopefully have it back on the road driving straight by the 19th.
i think i like the idea of the 1 inch blocks will keep it at a safe hieght from cv stress.
when you take yours out PM me and i will let you know as im interested if i havnt already ordered some from the us.

Sure. I want 2" block to go with my springs, possibly 3" and part body lift.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:51 pm

body lift does, that involve lifted struts or am i on the wrong track?