Lift Option for a Foz...

taza · Post by **taza** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 11:22 pm

Lift option...
Guys im thinking what I currently have isn't enough..
I have raised springs and 1" lift blocks. 2.5" total including tyres.
Thinking of pulling out the 1" blocks and putting 2" in the front and 3" blocks in the back. When loaded up even with the 240lbs springs the rear still sags abit. So with an extra inch in the back it would be more or less level when loaded up.
So 4.5" total lift in the rear and 3.5" in the front...
What you guys think? I know CV's can be an issue but isn't it usually only the front people have issues with?
I would like 350+ under the rear diff and a good 320+ under the front sump.
All strut lift! I know with 3" strut all round the front can sometimes be an issue but if I cover the boots with another split boot and cable tie it on to protect it abit more.

Opinions and ideas much appreciated!

Taza

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:12 am

Wow that's a lot of clearance, even Cruisers & Patrol's only have about 240mm on 33" tyres.

Davidov · Post by **Davidov** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:35 am

I currently have a touch over 310mm at rear diff with my OB. Anymore lift would probably be over the top. But i just think you should get another 2" in the rear and 1" in the front.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:05 am

would it be safer in the long run to install new struts? so you don't chew out your cv's?

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:08 am

Davidov show us some pics of the car:) from the description you gave me its quite a nice lifted ride:)

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:53 am

Why is it not enough? Are you getting hung up on stuff? Worried about breaking things? Or compensating for a lack of height due to saggy springs?

You would surely be doing some diabolical things to your suspension geometry and how the car handles with that much strut lift. Its also no where near compliant with the new nation wide vehicle modification guidelines that will/are coming in, probably for that exact reason.

Personally i want to piss off my strut tops and have longer travel shocks. Use adjustable strut tops in the front and adjustable trailing arms in the rear end for camber/castor adjustment. With the right spring it should sit at stock height (or within 30% as per modification guidelines), but have an extra 1" of drop and compression.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:12 am

If you do that you can kiss your down travel in the suspension good bye!

I think compression travel is just as important in 4wd'n as your suspension droop, if anything it could be more important. You'll find that you'll be lifting wheels more often than not.

Lifting the rear more to compensate load carrying is not the way to go either, it will have adverse effect on your handling when you're unladen. Ask ScubyRoo about his experience with little to no suspension down travel on a corrugated road.

If you want more lift I'd be looking into something like a 2 inch body lift with 3 inch struts, that would be a sweet setup!

As for the rear end, have you thought about looking into air bags? It's more expensive but the best setup in the long run IMO. This is what I want to do, but need to find the correct unit and the cash to fund that little project.

That's my 2c for you anyway.

Cheers

Bennie

taza · Post by **taza** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:35 am

d_generate wrote:Wow that's a lot of clearance, even Cruisers & Patrol's only have about 240mm on 33" tyres.

Yeah it would be abit

thunder039 wrote:would it be safer in the long run to install new struts? so you don't chew out your cv's?

I have new ones in the rear. Only 20,000clicks on them.

guyph_01 wrote:Davidov show us some pics of the car:) from the description you gave me its quite a nice lifted ride:)

Agreed

Venom wrote:Why is it not enough? Are you getting hung up on stuff? Worried about breaking things? Or compensating for a lack of height due to saggy springs?

You would surely be doing some diabolical things to your suspension geometry and how the car handles with that much strut lift. Its also no where near compliant with the new nation wide vehicle modification guidelines that will/are coming in, probably for that exact reason.

Personally i want to piss off my strut tops and have longer travel shocks. Use adjustable strut tops in the front and adjustable trailing arms in the rear end for camber/castor adjustment. With the right spring it should sit at stock height (or within 30% as per modification guidelines), but have an extra 1" of drop and compression.

The way the cars going its not going to be worth anything. I was thinking of cancelling the comprehensive insurance and just going 3rd party.
The back and front end still get caught up on rocks and the likes, especially when you have to get some momentum going to get over them (open diffs

). I am worried about busting the exhaust and completely ripping off the rear bumper..

The springs are only 8-9months old and don't sagg until the car is loaded up with a few hundred kg's. Then they sag anywhere upto an inch, so technically I loose clearance at the back

El_Freddo wrote:If you do that you can kiss your down travel in the suspension good bye!

I think compression travel is just as important in 4wd'n as your suspension droop, if anything it could be more important. You'll find that you'll be lifting wheels more often than not.

Lifting the rear more to compensate load carrying is not the way to go either, it will have adverse effect on your handling when you're unladen. Ask ScubyRoo about his experience with little to no suspension down travel on a corrugated road.

If you want more lift I'd be looking into something like a 2 inch body lift with 3 inch struts, that would be a sweet setup!

As for the rear end, have you thought about looking into air bags? It's more expensive but the best setup in the long run IMO. This is what I want to do, but need to find the correct unit and the cash to fund that little project.

That's my 2c for you anyway.

So having an extra inch in the back could more than likely make the handling worse?
Would swapping my 1" strut tops for 2" so I have 3" all round be better? The back end especially seems to catch on things and when loaded up it gets really bad.

I know guy has that issue with too stiff springs and he has no suspension travel and is forever bouncing and loosing traction

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:45 pm

Yeah heavy duty springs for a heavier car is not the way to go, lol. I've found out the hard way.
Btw, Anyone want to buy them for there outback or foz? My car is just to light for them....

Davidov · Post by **Davidov** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:56 pm

With the 3" I have in my ob ride comfort and handling are a non issue. With my springs the ride is actually better than it was at stock.

Since the forester has greater suspension movement that the ob you should be fine with the same amount of lift.

Will put up some pics soon. Been using my phone for the forums so its a bit hard to do some images.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:58 pm

guyph_01 wrote:Yeah heavy duty springs for a heavier car is not the way to go, lol. I've found out the hard way.
Btw, Anyone want to buy them for there outback or foz? My car is just to light for them....

Hard being the key word here but like you said, they were in a light car. In an Outback (H6 even better) they would do the job fine.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:07 pm

Taza.. If you run a 2 inch kit all round body lift then you'll have no issues with CV shafts and just have the extra 1 inch spacer on the rears. IMO if you go much higher then this you'll loose too much centre of gravity. If you need a higher vehicle because your tyres are too big then (don't take this the wrong way) you really should be looking at a larger 4X4.

Sorry to say but I tried many ways to type this without sounding rude

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:23 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Hard being the key word here but like you said, they were in a light car. In an Outback (H6 even better) they would do the job fine.

Hummm, I know someone who is building a twin turbo blue outback, Maybe he might be interested in them???

taza · Post by **taza** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:45 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Taza.. If you run a 2 inch kit all round body lift then you'll have no issues with CV shafts and just have the extra 1 inch spacer on the rears. IMO if you go much higher then this you'll loose too much centre of gravity. If you need a higher vehicle because your tyres are too big then (don't take this the wrong way) you really should be looking at a larger 4X4.

Sorry to say but I tried many ways to type this without sounding rude

Na your right mate, I am only running 27.5" tyres. No rubbing whats so ever:mrgreen:

The current 2" all round is fine and the front approach angle will be improved one day once I get a Subaxtreme bar its just the back catches.
So an extra inch in the back couldn't hurt?

Plus after seeing both Guyph's and Davido's front boots split due to too steep angle I think the front will be fine

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:35 pm

so what have you decided on taza? just an extra 1 inch lift in the rear with spacers?

taza · Post by **taza** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:10 pm

thunder039 wrote:so what have you decided on taza? just an extra 1 inch lift in the rear with spacers?

Yeah I think so.
The Supercharger is going on today/tomorrow. got called in for some work this arvo so that the afternoon gone.
Got a new exhaust going on tomorrow morning because the current one is rusted out and split.
So swap the 1 inch blocks out in the rear and put 2" in, I think this might happen next month. Not any real rush as now living in the city its not as easy to just zip off and go offroading or down the beach after work.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:31 pm

taza wrote:Yeah I think so.
The Supercharger is going on today/tomorrow. got called in for some work this arvo so that the afternoon gone.
Got a new exhaust going on tomorrow morning because the current one is rusted out and split.
So swap the 1 inch blocks out in the rear and put 2" in, I think this might happen next month. Not any real rush as now living in the city its not as easy to just zip off and go offroading or down the beach after work.

sounds great! look forward to seeing the car once its all done!

Post by **yarney** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:49 pm

I have 2" strut tops in the front and 3" in the rear with stock springs.
I find i don't have an issue with clearance but i have had a cv boot let go but i expected that once i put new ones in they should last.
The down side is the sway bar links will break if you put them in with that setup mine did. Atm i don,t have any (sway bars not connected) at all.
If you put hd springs in you will have the struts topping out all the time but you will have very good handling my Liberty sits level on any corner no mater how much right foot you give it or how much weight you have in it. And it dose not sag at all.

Jan

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 6:35 am

guyph_01 wrote:Hummm, I know someone who is building a twin turbo blue outback, Maybe he might be interested in them???

He would be if they are free

taza · Post by **taza** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:59 pm

Whats everyone think?
Im thinking this kind of lift but with 1inch extra in the rear.
Total 5" in the rear inculding tyres and 4" in the front...
this has 4" all round with tyres!