Diff locks won't disengage.

Battlewagon · Post by **Battlewagon** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 3:23 pm

Having got the new 96 outback battlewagon home, I've found that turning corners is difficult, it feels like the diffs are locked.
Am I doing something wrong? Is there a switch/fuse somewhere that I've missed?

Foghorn · Post by **Foghorn** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:37 pm

if it is an AWD then maybe you have blown a diff ???

B4 you get to worried Check your tire pressure might be all it is !!!

Battlewagon · Post by **Battlewagon** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:39 pm

Did some research, and found a term I'd never heard before: torque bind. OMG.
Now I'm having nightmares about what it's gonna cost to diagnose/fix this.
Solutions seem to range from an auto fluid change to replacing the rear of the transmission.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:58 pm

Try putting the 2WD fuse in the little holder, just behind the RHF strut tower. If this allows the car to behave like it should then yes, there is a torque bind in the centre diff. There are 4 general things to try.

1. Change the auto trans fluid (make sure you big the correct grade for your box) and while you have the fluid out, check the filter is clean.
2. Change the rear speed sensor on the back of the box.
3. Change the centre diff out for a known good one.
4. Replace the complete box (sometimes this works out to be the cheapest option, especially when you can pick them up for around $200)

Foghorn · Post by **Foghorn** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 6:22 pm

wow where do you get $200 auto box's from ??? best price i could get was $350 for one that would need to be rebuilt. Rebuild cost i found was around $2500+

Battlewagon · Post by **Battlewagon** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 6:44 pm

So, what is the correct grade of auto trans fluid for the 96 four speed auto?
What brands do you recommend, which to avoid?
Perhaps some aftermarket additives?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 9:47 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Try putting the 2WD fuse in the little holder, just behind the RHF strut tower. If this allows the car to behave like it should then yes, there is a torque bind in the centre diff. There are 4 general things to try.

1. Change the auto trans fluid (make sure you big the correct grade for your box) and while you have the fluid out, check the filter is clean.
2. Change the rear speed sensor on the back of the box.
3. Change the centre diff out for a known good one.
4. Replace the complete box (sometimes this works out to be the cheapest option, especially when you can pick them up for around $200)

Wow you dont muck about! I'm guessing you've seen this a few times before lol

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 10:25 am

Foghorn wrote:wow where do you get $200 auto box's from ??? best price i could get was $350 for one that would need to be rebuilt. Rebuild cost i found was around $2500+

If you have patience and keep a eye out for bargains, then you'll find them. I have paid as little as $100 for a Gen1 AWD box and as high as $1500 for a 2003 B4 Twin Turbo one.

Battlewagon wrote:So, what is the correct grade of auto trans fluid for the 96 four speed auto?

Battlewagon wrote:I'm not 100% sure without looking at the workshop manual but of the top of my head, I'd say yours uses Dextron III

What brands do you recommend, which to avoid?
Perhaps some aftermarket additives?

For testing purposes, I'd just buy the cheapest brand like SuperCheap Auto stuff and fun that for a month or 2 and if this fixes the problem, then drain it and use some better known brands like Penrite, Castrol, Valvoline, etc..

If the aftermarket additive are needed, which I personally aren't a fan off, then I'd also go with well known brands like Nulon.

nachaluva wrote:Wow you dont muck about! I'm guessing you've seen this a few times before lol

It's one of the worst problems in Subaru's because they use the AWD system. They have better AWD couplings in the newer boxes, so it's rare to see them in them yet but time will tell.