How to select a good EJ motor to swap in.

[mud_king91]

every fwd gets torque steer... theres a guy on here selling rs gear

[steptoe]

Put it this way.. I know a fella that was one of the earlier ones to fit an EJ20G with RS Lib box to his Brumby. Some time later he switched in a a NA EJ20. It may have been because it was a work car and was better all around for his staff not to driving a missile around town. An analogy given was that it still did great travel times as in could haul arse up hills and mountain ranges, get to 110 kph in no time and set some pretty pleasing paces.

An EJ20 could just be a good compromise between all choices and suggestions. I may go that way one day too

Very hard to compare EJ20 in its Foz to see how it would go in an L with L ratios, wheels and weight etc

[Venom]

What year did they start that?
I'd prefer not needing a chip-key; can't swim with them.

Not too sure precisely what date, I think about 2001 onwards?


Much later engines (after 2004/5?) also have CAN communications with various things like ABS. In which case the ECU does not function without components like ABS. Aftermarket ECU i think is a workaround, buts its an extra 1500-2000 cost.

Someone more knowledgable should know exactly what years to avoid.

[taza]

Would a 1998 EJ20 be better than a 1994-earlier EJ22, technology-wise?
Some of the newer motors make impressive power and torque despite smaller displacement.
That's what I meant, I should look for EJ20's as well, not just have blinders on for an EJ22?
Also why I started the thread; which years and engines to keep my eye out for.

I also misjudged the difference in weight between my L series and Taza's Foz.

I'm used to having my foot buried in the throttle
a full 20-30 seconds from a stop, (including time lost changing gears) accelerating for a 110km/h freeway.
That might take me just past the limit, but it takes its sweet time so it's easy to not "accidentally" drive too fast.
If I did that with Taza's 2.0 in my L Series, I'd probably end up at 150-160km/h instead of 115 km/h

I find if I don't use cruise control on the highway I look down and im doing 140-150km/hr quite easily. But if you had you foot planted while on the highway you would look down at the speedo and you would be doing 170ish, prob more in an L-Series due to the lightweight.

Taza

[steptoe]

I think I had better get meself an adaptor plate

[El_Freddo]

Don' forget Matt that your L-Series weighs about 500kg lighter than my Foz. So an EJ20 would be heaps more lively in your L than in my Foz. The low end torque offroad wise is decent for a 2.0l but considering you L would be half a tone lighter offroad too with smaller wheels it would go really well.

The light weight is one thing to consider, but the other thing to look at is the fact that the L series has 3.7 ratio diffs and the foz has 4.11 ratio diffs with slightly different forward gear ratios - you're comparing chalk to cheese with the L and the foz!

If I did that with Taza's 2.0 in my L Series, I'd probably end up at 150-160km/h instead of 115 km/h

Trust me you won't - your L series will start shaking at 130 and you'll notice the engine revving very hard, especially if you've got an exhaust that's suited to the EJ.

Very hard to compare EJ20 in its Foz to see how it would go in an L with L ratios, wheels and weight etc

That's what I've been trying to say!

I find if I don't use cruise control on the highway I look down and im doing 140-150km/hr quite easily. But if you had you foot planted while on the highway you would look down at the speedo and you would be doing 170ish, prob more in an L-Series due to the lightweight.

The gearing on the L series won't let you do it unless you're bouncing off the rev limiter. This is Ruby Scoo on our way home from Perth when we thought the black circle with the black line through it still meant a free for all like it was in the territory:



This was with a fresh MPFI EA82, we could have wound it up further but ran out of road to do it. She got a bit light at that speed - 2 blokes and our camp gear in the back with stock 23 inch tyres. This was pretty much a stock setup.

The L series gearing can actually effect the economy too - I get better economy cruising at 100km/h than I do at 110km/h. The EJ doesn't like to rev high and I can feel that - I would like to swap out 5th for a taller gear for lower revs.

That said I'm still getting better economy with the EJ22 than the EA82. And as Venom has said about engineering, same goes for me

Cheers

Bennie

[Alex]

i hit 190km/hr in my l-series with 27inch tyres and ej22, she was starting to run out of puff.

wasnt very stable.

matatak was right next to me in his MY wagon ej22 powered.

the VN commonwhore was about 5 lengths behind us

dont under estimate a ej powered l-series. Theyre really quite quick

[2nd Hand Yank]

I find if I don't use cruise control on the highway I look down and im doing 140-150km/hr quite easily. But if you had you foot planted while on the highway you would look down at the speedo and you would be doing 170ish, prob more in an L-Series due to the lightweight.

Taza

On the 110 km/h freeway, my foot stays within 5 cm of the firewall.

[2nd Hand Yank]

^^ EJ's don't like revving?

Well if I run taller than stock tyres that should help a bit.

Engineering...
Does that mean your car isn't insured, or just the motor isn't?

[2nd Hand Yank]

i hit 190km/hr in my l-series with 27inch tyres and ej22, she was starting to run out of puff.

wasnt very stable.

matatak was right next to me in his MY wagon ej22 powered.

the VN commonwhore was about 5 lengths behind us

dont under estimate a ej powered l-series. Theyre really quite quick

I would expect it to be similar or slightly quicker than my 08 Civic,
since my stock tyres were 205/55R-16's; heavier, wider.

I had it at 103mph in the USA;
speedo was electronic and mph/km selected at the push of a button.

[Venom]

Engineering...
Does that mean your car isn't insured, or just the motor isn't?

If you modify your car (e.g. engine swap) and don't tell your insurance company they can cancel your policy or deny/reduce a claim you try to make. Insurance companies only cover legal modifications. I don't know what the legalities of an engine conversion are in WA. In most other states modifications like an engine conversion require approval by an engineer, depending on what engine you've put in.

[TOONGA]

here in WA there is a government document that tells you what engine you can legally put in to a car.

Niterida has the document Im sure he sent it to me as well but I can't find it (for now)

it is more than likely on his page

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _ncop.aspx

it could even be this pdf

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... 011_v3.pdf

the formula could even be in this image



TOONGA

[niterida]

Brumby is officially rated at 970kg

So you can out a 970 x 4.0 = 3880cc NA motor or 970 x 2.75 = 2667cc Turbo motor in them (luckily for me a 13B turbo rotary is 2608cc )

Not sure what weight the L and MY cars are but you get the idea........

But any engine change that is not the same family as the original will need to be approved and engineered.

[El_Freddo]

^^ EJ's don't like revving?

They love to rev - but for long periods of time they also like to drink!

A stock liberty pulls about 2750 rpm at 100km/h - a 500rpm difference to the L series gearing. At 110 the liberty pulls 3250 or there abouts, which is the same as the L series at 100km/h...

I think you can work out what I meant.

Cheers

Bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

here in WA there is a government document that tells you what engine you can legally put in to a car.

Niterida has the document Im sure he sent it to me as well but I can't find it (for now)

it is more than likely on his page

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _ncop.aspx

it could even be this pdf

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... 011_v3.pdf

the formula could even be in this image



TOONGA

So a naturally aspirated EJ25 would be a legal swap,
except my drivetrain might not be able to handle it?

I wonder what would be needed to make an L Series trans handle the EJ25.

Likely, an EJ22 will be plenty of power...
but since it involves major reworking + engineering,
an EJ25 is tempting.

[2nd Hand Yank]

Brumby is officially rated at 970kg

So you can out a 970 x 4.0 = 3880cc NA motor or 970 x 2.75 = 2667cc Turbo motor in them (luckily for me a 13B turbo rotary is 2608cc )

Not sure what weight the L and MY cars are but you get the idea........

But any engine change that is not the same family as the original will need to be approved and engineered.

Nice ride.

Do we have any engineers on the AUSubaru forum? Mates rates?

[2nd Hand Yank]

They love to rev - but for long periods of time they also like to drink!

A stock liberty pulls about 2750 rpm at 100km/h - a 500rpm difference to the L series gearing. At 110 the liberty pulls 3250 or there abouts, which is the same as the L series at 100km/h...

I think you can work out what I meant.

Cheers

Bennie

Okay, I understand now.
So an EJ22 is a bit more like a ute-motor, where people complain of higher revs killing their economy.
My 08 Civic was just as thirsty at 3700rpm vs. 2700rpm.

Too bad I can't put that 1.8L motor with 10.25:1 compression and 140hp on low grade petrol into my L Series.

But an EJ22 is supposed to be more fuel efficient than my old EA82.
I've never seen it dip below 10L/100km, even with 44 psi and highway driving!

Wouldn't an EJ22 still be more fuel efficient at 120km/h than my EA82, L Series gearing?

[revmax]

so what does a NA 2.0L impreza (EJ20) spin at, at 100km, 5th gear

[2nd Hand Yank]

When people have done motor swaps,
how have you gone about upgrading your exhaust?

I'm thinking what might be good is 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" single exhaust
with a high-flow catayltic converter and a quieter performance muffler
perhaps with a resonator too to dampen low frequencies, as that's what it already has.

I'm open to junk-yard scrounging, if there's a 2 1/2" single exhaust else that will fit well.

I think my stock exhaust may be already sapping some of my horsepower.
It's got fair bottom end, but starts going to sleep past 2500-3000rpm.

[MTB92]

But any engine change that is not the same family as the original will need to be approved and engineered.

i had a bit of a read through and i couldn't find anything about of the same family, seemed to be more about engine mounting points. there is also an emphasis on workman ship of any modifications/welding/etc. i am pretty keen to know the answer, i am doing an ej conversion in Nov, and want it all to be legit.

that document also says "Fitting of a replacement engine with not more than 20% greater mass and/or power output than engines offered by the first manufacturer as a standard or optional engine.", so i could argue that ej is not 20% more powerful than a turbo EA82. (this may also mean i need to find disks for the rear)

There is a checklist on there, the only thing i can find that i would be a bit worried about is where it says "Has the engine been fitted without the alteration of the vehicle's chassis,
sub-frames, cross-members or body members?" and i believe the cross member holes need to be elongated. may be an issue, hopefully not.

i know Guyph said he got over without an eng cert, but whether we still can...