What my L Series needs, what I've added

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 9:12 pm

Tony i didn't mean that, i meant that someone i have met said that they are more accurate for this purpose. sorry mate.

Cheers Cam

tony · Post by **tony** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:27 am

take it easy cam, no sweat. did not take any offence.
regards,

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:02 am

Brumby Kid wrote:From memory someone said that for automotive an anologue is better?
Don't get the $10 jaycar, a bit mickey mouse (i have it) they have some good ones though!

Cheers Cam

I have this one, but have yet to try it.
What don't you like about it?

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:28 pm

I did that to make sure I had the correct firing order.
Replace one and start the motor.
As I progressed I could hear the motor starting easier, and "singing" more clearly, both at idle and as I opened up the throttle.

More tinny and crisp sounding, compared with duller snoring/struggling sounds.

But one thing I'm unsure about is if I damaged the leads that are on the driver-side.
One of the looms was particularly tight fitting, and I needed about 20lbs force to push it into the loom.
Removing the old lead was equally hard, and I thought after I finished tucking it all in "...what have I done?..."
The motor runs great, but I'm suss to the possibility of damaging a few of the strands on my brand new leads.
It's only two leads that I forced into one stupidly-tight loom.
I probably didn't even need to use that loom as there was another about 3 inches away.

How do I test if I've damaged the leads?
Would a multimeter set on resistance be able to tell me?

I could see how much resistance I have with them now,
then go back to Auto One to test some of their's with a multimeter.

If I've lost even as much as 1% of my power,
I'm annoyed at myself, for damaging otherwise-flawless leads.
I'd rather not keep them on forever, or even a full year,
and have marginally-reduced power and economy. (both are mediocre to start with)
I'm annoyed most at the time I spent wondering about this potential damage
than the cost of two new leads.

They were Tog Gun leads, possibly made in Australia.

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:20 am

I bought a headlight housing and two rear struts from Guyph.
The rear hatch now goes higher than before and works perfectly.
It'll take a 100 knot wind to keep my rear lift gate from opening now!

The headlight installed pretty easily and I have better beam spread.
Still need to wait for a free night to tweak the beam height to where I like it,
but so far it's heaps better.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:02 am

Good to hear your happy with the parts:)

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:30 pm

I believe youe "L" needs one of these as well

it is waiting for you to pick it up

TOONGA

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:47 pm

TOONGA wrote:I believe youe "L" needs one of these as well

it is waiting for you to pick it up

TOONGA

Now you tell me?
I just bought one of Guyph.

You just gave me an idea though... *Dual air snorkels?* Hmmm....

Would just need to weld another inlet into the stock air-cleaner box.

Guyph gave me a deal as I bought 3 items at once:
- struts
- a headlight
- and a snorkel piece.

If I went to a wreckers the price though what they might have charged me would be like getting the headlight and snorkel for free though. "Mate's Rates" gotta love it.

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:30 am

Ah yes KPM used parts

It was a freebie I scored when I bought my rims for jetcar.

you may need it to make up for the difference in height due to the lift kit.

TOONGA

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 8:43 am

TOONGA wrote:Ah yes KPM used parts

It was a freebie I scored when I bought my rims for jetcar.

you may need it to make up for the difference in height due to the lift kit.

TOONGA

I have one, plus the snorkel joint that fits in the engine bay.

I'm wondering if dual snorkels would be a good idea.

Maybe an exterior snorkel too, reverse-facing mounted on the fender?

I like the look of the snorkels on LandCruisers, but extra length is extra restriction + weight.
Could keep it short and just put a snorkel on the fender...
if it's not too stupid to cut a hole there.

Mostly, when it gets hot outside, air is less dense
and with it being even hotter under the bonnet
my EA82 might be struggling (slightly) for fresh air.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 8:54 am

2nd Hand Yank wrote:I have this one, but have yet to try it.
What don't you like about it?

A bit mickey mouse. But the leads kept on braking, (the tips) even after soldering them on, they still broke:(

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 12:47 am

Brumby Kid wrote:A bit mickey mouse. But the leads kept on braking, (the tips) even after soldering them on, they still broke:(

Sounds like a bad set of leads, but not the meter's fault.
I've had a crappy set of leads on a medium-price range multimeter back home.
I think I'm getting it mailed here with better leads and alligator clips too.

*Tested some brand new, never installed leads of the same lengths I'm suspecting were damaged by the tight "wire-loom" (Canadian/American english). Good news, there's no difference in the lowest Ohm readings between the one's I've already installed and the one's I bought to replace. I can now go back to Auto One to return the extra leads.*

Drained about 1" of oil out of my engine today,
as when it was filled, I overfilled it and suspected it might get taken in by the oil filter.
I was suspicious having a grossly-overfilled oil sump would rob a little power from the EA82.
It now is sitting about 1/4" above the full mark, oil being about body-warmth to the touch.

When I reved my engine to check the sound of the leads, plus lower oil,
my engine seems hesitant even with no load to rev quickly to high RPM.
Feels like something's holding it back...

I want to check my distributor and coil for oxide/scale buildup, engine timing and maybe my spark plugs as well.

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:38 am

I'm getting a chattering noise sometimes when I put the engine under load, say full throttle up a moderate hill.
Does that mean I need a new clutch plate and/or clutch disc?

I'm looking for some macpherson struts, as L Series don't have regular shocks in the front.
I'd prefer to get something better suited to offroad use, like corrugations, if possible.
I think the occaisional chattering noises from my transmission should be fixed first though.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:49 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:I'm getting a chattering noise sometimes when I put the engine under load, say full throttle up a moderate hill.
Does that mean I need a new clutch plate and/or clutch disc?

.

Sounds like ignition timing is to far adavanced or octane rating in fuel is to low.
Check ignition timing, if that is OK then use 98 octane fuel.

alx92 · Post by **alx92** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:35 pm

its probably the engine itself thats holding it back...

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:21 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:I'm getting a chattering noise sometimes when I put the engine under load, say full throttle up a moderate hill.
Does that mean I need a new clutch plate and/or clutch disc?

revmax wrote:Sounds like ignition timing is to far advanced or octane rating in fuel is to low.
Check ignition timing, if that is OK then use 98 octane fuel.

Revmax is talking about "predetonation" or "pinging" which can be very damaging to engines. It is best described as sounding like a bunch of nails being shaken in a tin can. It occurs the worst under full load & low rpm, most noticeable going up a hill.

It usually gives greater power but not always, but as i said it destroys the engine so for max power you should advance as far as u can till the engine starts to ping then back it off a smidge (ozzie term meaning a "tad" lol

).

In my experience, the electricals give the most trouble in cars esp older cars so I'd concentrate on that 1st.

It sounds like your engine is bit tired, so i'm sure the ancillaries will be too.
I'd be putting in new points, plugs, borrowing/buying a timing light & giving it a decent tune. You've done the leads so that should be it. Oh & check the vacuum advance on the dizzy...take the hose off at the engine side & suck thru it...You should notice the engine speed up.

Hope this helps...

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:51 pm

revmax wrote:Sounds like ignition timing is to far adavanced or octane rating in fuel is to low.
Check ignition timing, if that is OK then use 98 octane fuel.

Really?

I thought it's a manual transmission sound because I heard the same kind of sound when driving from a stop in my '08 Honda Civic with a manual transmission, especially if I was starting uphill, or with the wheels turned sharply; too much load for the flywheel/clutch while being partially engaged, is my best guess as to why this happened on my Civic. It never did this on my Civic while any gear was fully engaged, but then again my Civic only has about 40,000 kms on it.

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:58 pm

nachaluva wrote:Revmax is talking about "predetonation" or "pinging" which can be very damaging to engines. It is best described as sounding like a bunch of nails being shaken in a tin can. It occurs the worst under full load & low rpm, most noticeable going up a hill.

It usually gives greater power but not always, but as i said it destroys the engine so for max power you should advance as far as u can till the engine starts to ping then back it off a smidge (ozzie term meaning a "tad" lol ).

My "power" goes to poo when it makes that sound. It seems to me like the car version of a worn bicycle chain slipping under heavy load. I could be wrong, though I am suss as to my brand new Honda Civic also making that noise at low rpm...

In my experience, the electricals give the most trouble in cars esp older cars so I'd concentrate on that 1st.

It sounds like your engine is bit tired, so i'm sure the ancillaries will be too.
I'd be putting in new points, plugs, borrowing/buying a timing light & giving it a decent tune. You've done the leads so that should be it. Oh & check the vacuum advance on the dizzy...take the hose off at the engine side & suck thru it...You should notice the engine speed up.

Hope this helps...

I doubt that this sound is electrical, but I could be wrong.
I already have new spark plug leads and the engine sings more crisply. (I listen to exhaust and under-bonnet notes)

I'll give it a more thorough tune soon.
I've already changed or checked all the fluid systems.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:22 pm

Dunno, bit hard to tell without hearing it.

If it is a clutch slipping tho you'll hear the engine revs go up.
Cant really suggest anything more...sorry

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:39 pm

nachaluva wrote:Dunno, bit hard to tell without hearing it.

If it is a clutch slipping tho you'll hear the engine revs go up.
Cant really suggest anything more...sorry

If it is a knocking sound, then my Civic might also have been knocking?

I haven't driven many manual transmission cars, but it seems to be a common engagement sound when I drive. Its actually more common for me in other vehicles at low speed and low throttle input.

It could still probably use a tune. I've yet to dip under 10L/100km.

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What my L Series needs, what I've added

new plug leads, installed one-by-one

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