Lights, globes, driving lights etc.

[taza]

I think I'm going to have a stab at the wiring upgrade, shouldn't be hard to do then throw some better globes in there, a set of those Phillips extreme something or others will do I reckon.

Cheers

Bennie

I have these in my Foz, Phillips Xtreme +100 H4 globes. They are pretty darn good for halogen headlights They do look slightly white but nothing compared to HIDs.

[GOD]

I have these in my Foz, Phillips Xtreme +100 H4 globes. They are pretty darn good for halogen headlights They do look slightly white but nothing compared to HIDs.

Are you getting decent service life out of your Philips globes? I'm starting to think these Narvas are blowing too often.

Most driving lights can hang down or stand up, whatever suits. Antenna brackets work alright for mounting small lights:


Dane.

[taza]

Are you getting decent service life out of your Philips globes? I'm starting to think these Narvas are blowing too often.

Most driving lights can hang down or stand up, whatever suits. Antenna brackets work alright for mounting small lights:


Dane.

Ive only had them in for a few weeks and used the for probably only 6hours or so. I do still have my Phillips Long Life globes that were previously in there. They were ok but didn't put out much light on highbeam. I also have 130watt globes in my small Hella 140 pencil lights. They make a heap of difference and the 130watt upgrade globes from 100watt only cost me $19 from ebay.
If the phillips blow soon though I will just go back to the Long Life ones and upgrade the spotties themselves.

[NachaLuva]

After being worried bout upgrading my wiring iv decided to give it a go. Iv studied Gannon's diagram pretty well now & reckon iv got it...i hope lol.

Still bit worried tho cos iv heard of so many probs ppl have had, so what im gonna do is not cut the wires...i'll just use spade terminals to connect the relay control wires to the original headlight connector, that way if it doesnt work properly i cant just put the original connectors back on till i fix the prob

Then i can put in my 130/90W bulbs i got from EBay without frying the wiring or switches. I'll have to be very careful with getting the aiming spot on tho.

Re the discussion on pencil vs spread...
I would only go 2x combination beam.
Spread is TOO wide, not giving the distance & pencil only lights up the middle of the road, allowing the roos to jump out of near darkness & "attack" your car. & who needs to see 1km down the road? If i get 400m im happy.

Just my own preference

[taza]

Well I have had my Phillips +100 H4 Halgeon globes in for a few weeks and combine with my small Hella spotties they put out a good light, more would be nice but for now I can live with what I have.

I did how ever buy some cheap $20 100watt HID blue H4 globes off ebay about 12 months ago and never put them in because I thought I needed to upgrade my wiring. Anyway put them in today and suprisingly they worked. But in the day light the Phillips globes seemed brighter
I will try them out tonight and report back on what they are like.... and hopefully my wiring won't burn out or catch on fire

Taza

[taza]

Anyone got Narva 175 spot lights? Thinking about getting a set of them then throwing some 55watt HID's in. Along with HIDing my small Hella pencil spotties.

Ive taken Alex's idea and im going to HID everything!!!

[2nd Hand Yank]

Well I have had my Phillips +100 H4 Halgeon globes in for a few weeks and combine with my small Hella spotties they put out a good light, more would be nice but for now I can live with what I have.

I did how ever buy some cheap $20 100watt HID blue H4 globes off ebay about 12 months ago and never put them in because I thought I needed to upgrade my wiring. Anyway put them in today and suprisingly they worked. But in the day light the Phillips globes seemed brighter
I will try them out tonight and report back on what they are like.... and hopefully my wiring won't burn out or catch on fire

Taza

Would love to hear how that goes.

If I could choose,
I'd prefer to have less electrical load.
35W HID vs. 100W globe?
Maybe that'd be a worthwhile upgrade for my driving lights...
if it will fit in the "Ultra Compact" housing.

Is less electrical load or longevity the reasons most people like HID's?

I usually prefer the appearance of old-fashioned globes.
Fortunately, there are different colour-temperature ranges available for HID.

[Alex]

35watt HIDs use a hell of a lot less power than a 100w halogen.

A 35watt HID uses alot less power than a 55w halogen too.

[2nd Hand Yank]

35watt HIDs use a hell of a lot less power than a 100w halogen.

A 35watt HID uses alot less power than a 55w halogen too.

Is the difference in electrical load something you can feel at the throttle?
I can feel my A/C condensor.

[pitrack_1]

Just returned form a trip having fitted Narva 160x115s. Mine is a "combo" set- one "pencil" beam and one "broad' beam. Fitted with 100W globes- which make them non-ADR compliant I believe.

I bought them for country on-road driving mostly, both sealed and unsealed, long straight stretches and windy narrow vegetated. Around the NSW Tamworth/Gunnedah area is a good example.

Some comments:

They really help the (rather defocussed) SH Forester high beams.

The "pencil" beam can be considered more a long range beam rather than a pencil beam. I've seen some REAL pencil beam Hellas on (of all things) a Marina, and it doesn't compare for narrowness. However it's more real world usable than real pencil beams.

The "Broad" beam is really broad and excellent for lighting up roadsides but perhaps not far down the road. It has a wide horizontal spread with a relatively narrow vertical spread. As a result, good horizontal tilt alignment is required.

The website 300/400m road illumination diagram is comparable to the mobile claims of 8 hrs talk time and 800hrs standby- vastly overrated. Especially with the broad beam light. I dare anyone to see anything at several hundred metres at night anyway, especially some grey-camouflaged roo without reflective eyes.

The combination is good, one illuminated down the road and the other the roadside verge. However they want you wanting more of both types- 2 long range would be great on straight long stretches of roads, and 2 broads would be killer for those roos (rather than car-killer, or killer-car). 2 of each type would be excellent! Half the problem is the vehicle's inbuilt hi-beams, which don't really contribute to either and seem to wast a lot of light upwards, too.

My old N13 Pulsar has dual beam headlight units, which I've found quite adequate for the driving I've described- the H4 low/high beam become broad beams on high, and the dedicated high beam inners are more long range beams- so you do actually get two of each. Only 55W each beam, they cover off the whole road/verge better than the 1 broad/1 long + 2 nondescript high beams on the Forester, if not maybe quite as far as the 100W long range lamp.

They are reasonably priced and built, come with protective covers for impact protection and appropriate basic wiring inc. relay, toggle switch and suggested (simple) wiring diagram.

I'd STRONGLY suggest they are wired with a separate waterproof fuse holder- I don't think they come with one, I bought my own also. Also use cable housing, e.g.the split type that's easy to fit. I'd also suggest replacing the toggle switch it comes with standard with a nice rocker switch from Narva, complete with driving light symbol and red indicator light. If I get a chance, I'll post a picture.

Funnily, the SH Foresters have NO spots to mount auxiliary switches- we found a spot near the handbrake, I think it may be the spot for the o/s electric seat heating switch perhaps.They have a sort of swivel/ball mount which allows them to be mountable either stand-up, hang-down (pendant) or right-angles, standing out in front of the mounting point (ie the bolt goes in horizontally as opposed to vertically). The tightening of the bolt tightens the ball and holds the lamp unit in place. However, this makes alignment difficult esp. if you have the bolt head in an inconvenient spot- e.g. under the bull bar mount point obstructed in front by the bullbar itself, like me of course! this especially applies to the broad beam which can be affected by tilt and the ball mount allows for this.

I had mine wired up by an auto-electrician (to make sure I didn't stuff something- the wiring of modern cars can be downright weird) and it cost (I think) $165. I had bullet-type terminals fitted for ease of connection disconnection. However, for security I replaced the standard M5 (I think) bolt with an allen head M5 bolt for a bit more security. Make it more difficult to tighten (and therefore loosen, i.e. steal) though.

[steptoe]

2nd hand , your AC compressor is an engine load, not really an electrical load - that is what you feel when switching AC on and off.

As for roos and high beams. A truckie of thirty years boasted to me recently that he had not hit one roo since he started driving at night on only low beams in roo infested areas, reckoning that high beams is what startled them and dazed them. i prefer to see them early enough with high beams myself. Horn blast does wonders - almost to the point I considered a horn and blinker relay set up just for kangaroo alleys - their hearing has greater distance capabilities than our night sight

[2nd Hand Yank]

2nd hand , your AC compressor is an engine load, not really an electrical load - that is what you feel when switching AC on and off.

As for roos and high beams. A truckie of thirty years boasted to me recently that he had not hit one roo since he started driving at night on only low beams in roo infested areas, reckoning that high beams is what startled them and dazed them. i prefer to see them early enough with high beams myself. Horn blast does wonders - almost to the point I considered a horn and blinker relay set up just for kangaroo alleys - their hearing has greater distance capabilities than our night sight

My mistake, but I knew it's a load of something.

Sounds like dipping your lights to low when you see them might help...
I can't see how always running low beams prevents any roo strike though.
Sometimes they are just travelling across the road, not paying attention it seems.

Horn and blinker relay?
So this would flash your high beams and simultaneously beep your car's horn?

[2nd Hand Yank]

Just returned form a trip having fitted Narva 160x115s. Mine is a "combo" set- one "pencil" beam and one "broad' beam. Fitted with 100W globes- which make them non-ADR compliant I believe.

Some comments:

They really help the (rather defocussed) SH Forester high beams.

The "pencil" beam can be considered more a long range beam rather than a pencil beam. I've seen some REAL pencil beam Hellas on (of all things) a Marina, and it doesn't compare for narrowness. However it's more real world usable than real pencil beams.

The "Broad" beam is really broad and excellent for lighting up roadsides but perhaps not far down the road. It has a wide horizontal spread with a relatively narrow vertical spread. As a result, good horizontal tilt alignment is required.

The website 300/400m road illumination diagram is comparable to the mobile claims of 8 hrs talk time and 800hrs standby- vastly overrated. Especially with the broad beam light. I dare anyone to see anything at several hundred metres at night anyway, especially some grey-camouflaged roo without reflective eyes.

I'd STRONGLY suggest they are wired with a separate waterproof fuse holder- I don't think they come with one, I bought my own also. Also use cable housing, e.g.the split type that's easy to fit. I'd also suggest replacing the toggle switch it comes with standard with a nice rocker switch from Narva, complete with driving light symbol and red indicator light. If I get a chance, I'll post a picture.

I had mine wired up by an auto-electrician (to make sure I didn't stuff something- the wiring of modern cars can be downright weird) and it cost (I think) $165. I had bullet-type terminals fitted for ease of connection disconnection. However, for security I replaced the standard M5 (I think) bolt with an allen head M5 bolt for a bit more security. Make it more difficult to tighten (and therefore loosen, i.e. steal) though.

What part makes it non-ADR compliant?
Every driving light set I see here comes with 100W globes.

Ah so the pencil beam is not as bad as I thought.
I don't want what looks like a laser beam in beam-profile.
Do you agree with them claiming 500-700m with the pencil beam?

Sounds like the broad underperforms in the 300-400m range, and beyond 100m?
My L Series also has very de-focused high beams,
so perhaps having vertical focusing with more power will at least improve my vis up to 100m.
60 mph = 88 ft/sec, so 110km/h = roughly 30m/sec
3 seconds depth of very good visibility at 110km/h?
My ultra-compacts, 150/85 are rated just under what your 160x115's are for beam distance.

Separate waterproof fuse holder? How is it normally set up?

So you really want 2 broads and 2 pencils/long range?
If I'm getting welding done, I could add tabs below and above my top bar.

Would it be better to have the broads below and pencils on top, or vice versa?

[NachaLuva]

Separate waterproof fuse holder? How is it normally set up?

So you really want 2 broads and 2 pencils/long range?
If I'm getting welding done, I could add tabs below and above my top bar.

Would it be better to have the broads below and pencils on top, or vice versa?

Always put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. If there is a short AFTER the fuse, it just blows...no fire!

I'd put the pencils abv as they are much more alignment critical.

& yeah i think i'll be keeping my lights on high beam... i wanna be able to see jumpy things in heaps of time so i can slow right down. Even in daylight roos are unpredictable, fast & can change directions in a single bound!

I'd also have a look at those sonic roo deterrents. They produce a high pitched whistle that is supposed to scare away roos. Some ppl swear by em.

I have been very lucky with roos, had many close calls, no hits then 2 in 1 day! Fortunately (for me lol) I was hitchhiking. 1 was totalled (lil Hyundai) so i just got out & thumbed next ride lol. Other was a Wolsley...huge English (very British lol) car with real wood paneling & mega solid panels. Slightly dented bumper so we kept going haha

[pitrack_1]

Piccies and part nos (except fuse holder) located at

showthread.php?p=177657#post177657 (hopefully this is the correct way to cross-link a post)

And I'll try to remember to post a pic of my fuse setup.

My responses to a few queries:

- I don't think 500+ m is realistic for the Narva long-range (nee: pencil) beams, however my alignment is not optimal. Perhaps my eyes aren't either.
- I'd love 2 long-range and 2 broad beam. Could cross 'em up and really pretend I'm a rally driver!
- (I've not checked this completely) 100W bulbs are possibly above ADR /ECE spec on wattage, otherwise are on luminance. Have a look at ADR 46/00 and the ECE stuff contained therein (good luck!) prob. APPENDIX A UN-ECE REGULATION NO. 1/01 Para 6.4
- Should note the long-range are not ADR compliant even with 55W bulbs- but the broad beams are (as per Narva website- ADR 46/00).
- I think it does come down to a consideration of other road users- not just drivers, but pedestrians, cyclists, etc. I am very reluctant to use them on well-travelled roads.
- It could be said if it dazzles other drivers then it could dazzle roos too!
- I've found horns work like a directional switch for roos. If you want 'em to change direction, just honk! I've made them do this, including making one particularly stupid and suicidal individual fall over on a wet road directly in front of me (at very slow speed of course) by honking just as it was about to land (I let it hop up and run off).
- At other times I've been able to 'steer' roos down the road with the headlights. You just cruise up behind them, aim right of them & they'll steer left, aim left & they'll steer right. I'm not sure now whether this was a reaction to vehicle sound or the light. If they slow down, you get close or, if necessary, honk and resteer 'em as necessary. You can do this until they tire, you get bored, or (hopefully) you can steer them safely off into the bushes. I've chased one off a bridge like this.
- Horns don't work with wombats. They just stand, snarl at you, refuse to move until you shut up and then waddle off at their own pace. They win!

[apg39]

Thought I would ask here... I have a 'friend' who is wiring his lights in today but wants to use driving lights whenever he wants not just when high beams are on. But the wiring kit he has relies on that wire going somewhere. Can he just hook it up to an accessory wire instead of the high beam wire?

[NachaLuva]

- Horns don't work with wombats. They just stand, snarl at you, refuse to move until you shut up and then waddle off at their own pace. They win!

Wombats are such funny animals. Not quite cute & cuddly (except as babies) but have the funniest waddle lol

Thought I would ask here... I have a 'friend' who is wiring his lights in today but wants to use driving lights whenever he wants not just when high beams are on. But the wiring kit he has relies on that wire going somewhere. Can he just hook it up to an accessory wire instead of the high beam wire?

Tell your "friend'' lol that its illegal & dangerous not to have "his" driving lights wired up thru the high beam. But if he is determined then he could take the power wire to the relay from the park lights. That way he can switch the driving lights on anytime the headlights are on. But i really would advise against it

[apg39]

Well can someone tell me which is the high beam wire because I cant seem to find a wiring diagram? 1990 carby L series.

[2nd Hand Yank]

- At other times I've been able to 'steer' roos down the road with the headlights. You just cruise up behind them, aim right of them & they'll steer left, aim left & they'll steer right. I'm not sure now whether this was a reaction to vehicle sound or the light. If they slow down, you get close or, if necessary, honk and resteer 'em as necessary. You can do this until they tire, you get bored, or (hopefully) you can steer them safely off into the bushes. I've chased one off a bridge like this.

- Horns don't work with wombats. They just stand, snarl at you, refuse to move until you shut up and then waddle off at their own pace. They win!

A lot of farm animals are like that too. I've been on some musters here in the SW.

Love that mate.

[NachaLuva]

Well can someone tell me which is the high beam wire because I cant seem to find a wiring diagram? 1990 carby L series.

Gannon was kind enough to post a modifed wiring diagram...

showthread.php?t=20176&page=2

wire codes are:
LW = Blue/white
R = Red
YR = Yellow/red
RL = Red/blue