Push type clutch system.
I'm using an Outback Master cylinder, Outback slave cylinder, normal Lib clutch fork and clutch.
I have complete adjustment of the pedal, and even adjusted out for maximum throw, the slave cylinder simply won't push the clutch fork far enough to disengage the clutch.
I know the clutch isn't seezed or anything like that, I operated it on the floor successfully before fitting into the car - with a large bar on the clutch fork while spinning the tailshaft.
I think that the solution is to put a longer rod into the slave cylinder - thoughts anyone?
Hydraulic clutch
Assuming you have a NA lib based upon push type clutch???
AFAIK push type clutchs from the early NA Libs have a longer throw side on the fork than the hydraulic turbo and later model pull type clutches. Or at least the length ratio either side of the pivot is differant.
The hydro slave cylinder will not have enough movement in it to actuate the push type clutch
I know in my rally car whick has a hydro pull clutch operated by a L series cable that the fork had to be lengthened above the pivot to get enough feel in the clutch for it to operate correctly, otherwise it was "in" or "out".
Unless I have this really wrong it may be easiest just to use a cable clutch setup, not sure how else to get around it?
AFAIK push type clutchs from the early NA Libs have a longer throw side on the fork than the hydraulic turbo and later model pull type clutches. Or at least the length ratio either side of the pivot is differant.
The hydro slave cylinder will not have enough movement in it to actuate the push type clutch
I know in my rally car whick has a hydro pull clutch operated by a L series cable that the fork had to be lengthened above the pivot to get enough feel in the clutch for it to operate correctly, otherwise it was "in" or "out".
Unless I have this really wrong it may be easiest just to use a cable clutch setup, not sure how else to get around it?
85 Leone RX EJ20T Rally Car - plus spare rolling shell
91 Facelift 2.2 GX 4WD Legacy - SOLD
96 RSB Legacy
91 Facelift 2.2 GX 4WD Legacy - SOLD
96 RSB Legacy
It is a push type clutch. But it was setup exactly like this from the factory. Its from a 1999 Outback.
Push clutch + hydraulic from factory.
The master cylinder, slave cylinder, gearbox, clutch and pressure plate were all from the same car.
Only thing different is the clutch fork which I had to source from a wrecker. It's off "some kind of liberty". Is there any different between the slave cylinders in various Libs? Mabey i just need a different model of slave cylinder with more throw in it ? ?
It's all in an L series conversion, I've custom fitted the mastery cylinder etc.... I could swap back to a cable setup I suppose, but the clutch fork doesn't have any way of hooking a cable up to it.
Push clutch + hydraulic from factory.
The master cylinder, slave cylinder, gearbox, clutch and pressure plate were all from the same car.
Only thing different is the clutch fork which I had to source from a wrecker. It's off "some kind of liberty". Is there any different between the slave cylinders in various Libs? Mabey i just need a different model of slave cylinder with more throw in it ? ?
It's all in an L series conversion, I've custom fitted the mastery cylinder etc.... I could swap back to a cable setup I suppose, but the clutch fork doesn't have any way of hooking a cable up to it.
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tim_81coupe
- General Member
- Posts: 1693
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Perth
Perhaps we need to take a trip to a wrecker and start comparing slave cylinders.
Could you have a look at where the slave cylinder tip sits when its engaged then disengaged, ie measure the length of its travel, and check if its the same when off the vehicle all together? What I mean is check if the slave is actually using all of its travel on the vehicle. If it is then we need a slave cylinder with longer travel. If it's not travelling the whole distance then we need a different master cylinder or perhaps a longer throw pin or clevis attachment.
There is of course the other possibility you've brought up of the Liberty clutch fork being in some way wrong, but knowing how much of a pain removing it will be I'd have a look at that slave first...
Trust me, when I have my "subaru thinking session" at random points throughout my day this problem comes up. I don't think you should bail on the hydraulic clutch yet.
Could you have a look at where the slave cylinder tip sits when its engaged then disengaged, ie measure the length of its travel, and check if its the same when off the vehicle all together? What I mean is check if the slave is actually using all of its travel on the vehicle. If it is then we need a slave cylinder with longer travel. If it's not travelling the whole distance then we need a different master cylinder or perhaps a longer throw pin or clevis attachment.
There is of course the other possibility you've brought up of the Liberty clutch fork being in some way wrong, but knowing how much of a pain removing it will be I'd have a look at that slave first...
Trust me, when I have my "subaru thinking session" at random points throughout my day this problem comes up. I don't think you should bail on the hydraulic clutch yet.
82 MY Wagon, EJ20G
87 RX, EJ20G
89 Brumby, EA81
12 BRZ, FA20
87 RX, EJ20G
89 Brumby, EA81
12 BRZ, FA20
ive had trouble with this exact problem on a z i was helping convert. We ended up going to the wreckers and getting a whole pile of slave cylinders from various nissans and datsuns and found they all bolted and plumbed up pretty easy and all had different travel lengths. The smaller diameter rod was usually a longer travel with a slighty heavier clutch pedal.
