fix rusted 8mm water outlets....

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:29 pm

Looking at a manifold with rusted/ corroded water inlet/outlet that was originally a pressed in mild steel tube with an expanded end on it.

Seen these a few times playing with Japanese cars and the problem always seems to be that there is no commercially available fitting to use to replace the mild steel pressed part. 5/16 is ~ 7.9mm. Always seem to be dealing with 8mm ID hoses, bypass or throttle body warmers.

Wouldn't you think if you can get a 1/4" barbed swivel tail with 1/8" BSPT you could get 5/16" same? No listing

Found my manifold has been repaired before! It had the pressed in mild steel tube drilled out, hole tapped to 1/8 BSPT and a mild steel fitting like from brake line screwed in, the nut was 10mm spanner like brake line. Its outlet tail was 1/4" (6.35mm) and already rusted through in one spot.

First one in the line up is the 1/4" barbed tail. Bit rude I think, using 6.35mm OD for a 7.5mm ID hose.
Next is the blank off plug, I'll be using stainless
#3 is the 5/16" pressure pipe fitting, was thinking make up a double flare on a length of 5/16" copper pipe
Last one is a Ryco 204 air line fitting, and looking at it, there is enough meat to machine it down to 8mm (or 7.5) and still not crush it under a clamp

Next time I am looking for something like this, anyone got a lathe to do small jobs?? This time I am bypassing the hose completely, 4 clamps and two hoses not to worry about in service or even fit in the Rubik pretzel of a spider manifold!!

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littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:14 am

Jonno, here you go:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8-Bsp-x-5- ... 1c1970fd21

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:45 am

Pretty close Gary. What s the difference between BSP and BSPT, the T?

I hear someone say, will it fit without screwing (the ruder version of the word) the thread? Anothr Ryco part there or almost anything else from memory. Well done.

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:34 am

T for taper, as opposed to parallel. I think if a part is labelled just as BSP, it'll be tapered.
http://www.fittingsexpress.com.au is pretty good for that sort of stuff.

Dane.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:11 pm

BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) and BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) are from the same family and share the same TPI (Threads per inch) of 27.
NPT (National Pipe Taper) has a different TPI of 28, and a different included angle of 55 degrees versus 60 of BSP.
NPT also has a smaller start diameter.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:13 pm

Ah ha, should get that tattoed somewhere. I tried the ryco fitting into the threaded hole and seemed to bottom out before the taper. No stainless plug avail from suppliers so goin' with the brass stuff in taper.

tony · Post by **tony** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:29 pm

also if you hit the local fasteners and nuts and bolts shop you should be able to buy a short bolt that will screw in, allow enough length and cut the head off get the plain bit turned down to the dia you want then get a hole drilled down the middle.
i could practice with my newly acquired mini lathe but a bit far away.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:30 pm

another bit of enginuity coming out on the board. Always been envious of lathe access. Tony, did you get one of the Jaycar $800 lathes?

If I have to in future, think I'd go with a 204 turned down to get same non barbed pipe and bubble on the end

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:27 pm

tony wrote:also if you hit the local fasteners and nuts and bolts shop you should be able to buy a short bolt that will screw in, allow enough length and cut the head off get the plain bit turned down to the dia you want then get a hole drilled down the middle.
i could practice with my newly acquired mini lathe but a bit far away.

I wouldn't bother, you need a taper thread.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:58 pm

I have sealed off manifold water holes with standard thread and gas tape before - EA81 LPG conversions by drilling and tapping straight down from top into cavity sealing off hole completely and taped grub screw on outer as well.
Think taper taps worry me

, only done a few on Diesel turbo conversions, no come backs though

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 1:46 am

steptoe wrote:Ah ha, should get that tattoed somewhere.

I can see you now Jonno in 10 years time - no wife (left you due to your tats) and a body covered in random subaru information that is good to no one other than yourself and other subaru enthusiasts!

I do like where you're going with this - makes sense to drill, tap and throw a threaded barbed tail...

Hope you find a product off the shelf that will easily used for these kinds of repairs!

Cheers

Bennie

tony · Post by **tony** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 2:03 am

steptoe wrote:another bit of enginuity coming out on the board. Always been envious of lathe access. Tony, did you get one of the Jaycar $800 lathes?

If I have to in future, think I'd go with a 204 turned down to get same non barbed pipe and bubble on the end

always wanted a little lathe just for cutting down those nuts and bolts and bits of steel that need adapting.could never afford one and happened to find one on gumtree , had about $400 worth of accessories so thought bugger it, spoil meself. don't smoke, given up drink, don't go fishing, need some reward! always get my money back if I have to sell.
its a carba tech one but they are all basically made by the same crowd and rebadged. wouldn't call it great quality but good enough for me and for the small use i will give it durability is not an issue.
I have used a lathe casually before but years ago and am very much a learner.