What can be done with a 93 L Series?

[2nd Hand Yank]

I have a few ideas that I wanted to ask general questions about.
If there are any threads that discuss any of these, please feel free to re-direct me.

1) Jacking on sand/beach:
what do you recommend I should carry in the odd chance I need to jack it up on the beach?
Would a piece of plywood of a certain size be a good "shoe" for the jack,
or are there smarter ideas.

2) Recovery points
If I did manage to get it stuck, where can I safely attach a tow-strap or winch hook to extract a L Series.
I don't want to go ripping parts off of it, learning by trial-and-error.
Should I get my own recovery points and attach them somewhere to the chassis/body?

3) Does a L Series have a chassis, or is it a unibody construction?

4) LSD's
I've heard a lot of people mention adding in LSD's into the rear. Has anyone tried adding an "auto-locker" into the rear? There are many "plug-in" lockers available for rear drive trucks, jeeps, utes etc. that allow full locking when going straight, and unlocking of one or both sides around corners, with the only disadvantage a light clicking sound. A Limited-Slip-Differential works by adding friction, and this extra friction can decrease fuel economy, rob a marginal amount of power and you can have LSD clutch wear over time. An auto-locker isn't supposed to get much wear at all, plus it has no effect on friction in the drivetrain; no power/economy loss.

5) Aluminium bumpers
My L Series has an aftermarket front bumper with an integrated roobar. It feels very solid, has good looking welds and presently is in good shape. But aluminium is known for corroding VERY FAST in a salt-spray environment. Should I coat my front bumper with something to protect the aluminium? I would like something that is clear, so it looks the same. Does anyone recommend a product for protecting aluminium from beach environments?

6) Body & under-body
Do any of you use coatings to protect your subarus at the beach?
I think the reason my Subaru is in nice shape is it might have not seen much beach-duty and is from South Australia.

7) Interior Lighting
Is it easy to add lights connected with the interior lighting, so the floor can be lit up when the door opens?
I find the factory interior lighting pretty poor.

Engine Immobilizers
I might need to add one to my car when the SA Rego expires. Are there any cheap ones approved in WA that are easy for DIY installations?

9) Random electrical mods
Has anyone installed their own electrical modifications? I might like to add my own keyless-entry if it doesn't cost too much. It can save the paint from fumbling for the keyhole, plus it's great when your hands are full. I learned to love keyless-entry from owning a 08 Civic.

That's all I can think of for the moment.
I wanted to post it here rather than in multiple sub-forums in case I forgot what I posted.

Cheers

[GOD]

1) Yes, a piece of 12mm or so by 300-400mm square of plywood or hardwood is a perfect jacking base, both for tyre changing and for digging out a bogged car.

2) There are two loops under the front and two under the back of the car. These are only designed to be tie down points. Many of us have snatched off them, but do so at your own risk. Don't bother with real 4wd tow hooks - you'll have nothing solid enough to bolt them to.

3) Unitary, like all Subarus.

4) Lots of late model Subarus have a viscous LSD in the back, which will go into your L (assuming matching ratios). Leone RXs had a clutch pack LSD, but these are hard to find. I wouldn't expect power or economy losses to be significant. No lockers are available for the small diffs in Subarus, but Taza on this forum is working on one.

5) As aluminium corrodes it forms a protective oxide skin which stops the rest of the structure corroding. I'd be more concerned about the steel body. You could paint the alloy bar with paint or some sort of clear lacquer if you must to keep it shiny.

6) Dunno, don't go on the beach. Have heard of Lanotec and fish oil sprays. Definitely make sure you give the car a good wash after an offroad outing.

7) Yes, easy.

Yes, go to any car parts or stereo shop.

9) Yes, many. Keyless entry kits can be bought at shops or on ebay. Don't go for the absolute cheapest.

Dane.

[RSR 555]

1) Jacking on sand/beach:
what do you recommend I should carry in the odd chance I need to jack it up on the beach?
Would a piece of plywood of a certain size be a good "shoe" for the jack,
or are there smarter ideas.

I use and love the exhaust jack for the beach but can use in other places if you use a small tarp.. brought off Fleabay for about $60 del.

2) Recovery points
If I did manage to get it stuck, where can I safely attach a tow-strap or winch hook to extract a L Series.
I don't want to go ripping parts off of it, learning by trial-and-error.
Should I get my own recovery points and attach them somewhere to the chassis/body?

Like Dane said.. there is a few tie down / tow points on your L. Always a good idea to use 2 points when being snatched out of the sand, using the Y config.

3) Does a L Series have a chassis, or is it a unibody construction?

All use the Monocoque design.. the body is the chassis and major points are strengthened.

4) LSD's
I've heard a lot of people mention adding in LSD's into the rear. Has anyone tried adding an "auto-locker" into the rear? There are many "plug-in" lockers available for rear drive trucks, jeeps, utes etc. that allow full locking when going straight, and unlocking of one or both sides around corners, with the only disadvantage a light clicking sound. A Limited-Slip-Differential works by adding friction, and this extra friction can decrease fuel economy, rob a marginal amount of power and you can have LSD clutch wear over time. An auto-locker isn't supposed to get much wear at all, plus it has no effect on friction in the drivetrain; no power/economy loss.

Pretty much talked about animal and yes at one stage they (R160 Locker) were available but the cost of them was almost not worth it. As the RX turbo models came with the Clutch Plated LSD, they were hunted down. I think it all depends on what you're planning to use the car for.. if it's mostly beach work then you'll find that it's probably not need but if you're planning on doing some serious offroading (over rocks, ruts, etc..) then a LSD can help.

5) Aluminium bumpers
My L Series has an aftermarket front bumper with an integrated roobar. It feels very solid, has good looking welds and presently is in good shape. But aluminium is known for corroding VERY FAST in a salt-spray environment. Should I coat my front bumper with something to protect the aluminium? I would like something that is clear, so it looks the same. Does anyone recommend a product for protecting aluminium from beach environments?

There is some really good powder coating colours out there and some even look like Alloy.. I'd check them out. I'd recomment you make any changes (like tow tongues or jacking points) prior to your bar before getting it coated.

6) Body & under-body
Do any of you use coatings to protect your subarus at the beach?
I think the reason my Subaru is in nice shape is it might have not seen much beach-duty and is from South Australia.

Heaps of good products out there for this.. just pop down to your local auto store or paint shop, they should be able to show you. There is also those electronic units but never using one myself, I can't give any advise on them. And my best measure is.. to always washing it and spraying CRC all over it after every time I've return home.

7) Interior Lighting
Is it easy to add lights connected with the interior lighting, so the floor can be lit up when the door opens?
I find the factory interior lighting pretty poor.

Yeah.. heaps of products out there. I love the new LED products.. small and light and pretty easy to stick anywhere with a bit of doublesided tape. LED use very little power so wiring is usually pretty thin and can be hidden easily. Ask the auto parts stores while you're looking for underbody spray.

Engine Immobilizers
I might need to add one to my car when the SA Rego expires. Are there any cheap ones approved in WA that are easy for DIY installations?

You'll need one as soon as the car arrives in WA (unless you have a SA postal address) and there is heaps of them on the market.. ranging from cheap DIY for around $30 upwards

9) Random electrical mods
Has anyone installed their own electrical modifications? I might like to add my own keyless-entry if it doesn't cost too much. It can save the paint from fumbling for the keyhole, plus it's great when your hands are full. I learned to love keyless-entry from owning a 08 Civic.

Don't buy a cheap immobilizer then.. put the extra $$ in and buy a good quality unit that has keyless entry. Just do a google search for 'immobilizer keyless entry' then happy hunting. I use Auto Watch but it's a personal choice.

Cheers,
Paul

[2nd Hand Yank]

1) Yes, a piece of 12mm or so by 300-400mm square of plywood or hardwood is a perfect jacking base, both for tyre changing and for digging out a bogged car.

2) There are two loops under the front and two under the back of the car. These are only designed to be tie down points. Many of us have snatched off them, but do so at your own risk. Don't bother with real 4wd tow hooks - you'll have nothing solid enough to bolt them to.

3) Unitary, like all Subarus.

4) Lots of late model Subarus have a viscous LSD in the back, which will go into your L (assuming matching ratios). Leone RXs had a clutch pack LSD, but these are hard to find. I wouldn't expect power or economy losses to be significant. No lockers are available for the small diffs in Subarus, but Taza on this forum is working on one.

5) As aluminium corrodes it forms a protective oxide skin which stops the rest of the structure corroding. I'd be more concerned about the steel body. You could paint the alloy bar with paint or some sort of clear lacquer if you must to keep it shiny.

6) Dunno, don't go on the beach. Have heard of Lanotec and fish oil sprays. Definitely make sure you give the car a good wash after an offroad outing.

7) Yes, easy.

Yes, go to any car parts or stereo shop.

9) Yes, many. Keyless entry kits can be bought at shops or on ebay. Don't go for the absolute cheapest.

Dane.

1) Would "particle board" (compressed wood chips/shavings with glue) be okay under a jack, or should I try to find plywood? I have some particle board.

2) I'll have a look for them. Thanks for mentioning not to buy 4wd tow hooks.

4) Mine is a GL. Is the rear diff open, or LSD?

5) I'm mostly concerned with the structural intergrity of the roobar. I've heard of salt-spray destroying aluminium screen/storm doors in homes by the beach.

6) Was at an auto parts store today and they mentioned fish oil. Sounded funny. I'll investigate further.

7 and 8 Thanks. Funny how number 8 makes the cool smilie

[2nd Hand Yank]

Thanks RSR 555.

Something else I'd just thought of...

10) Spare Tire
Does it have to match the diameter of the tires you are running?

I have a spare that's 195/70R-14, the tires mounted are all 185/70R-14's and I hear the stock size is 185/70R-13.

I don't need a spare to last me 5000+km's,
but it would be nice if I had a flat somewhere like Exmouth,
I could drive it maybe 1000 km back to Perth to buy a proper sized replacement.
If that's safe to do then it's my preference.

I was warned at the auto parts store that running more than 80 km's on a different diameter tire can ruin some part of the drivetrain.

Cars usually come with ridiculously undersized compact spares, like 2-3 inches shorter in diameter.
If I can run a shorter tire for 500-1000km's with no dramas,
I might like to acquire a 185/70R-13 so I can mount it under the bonnet.

11) What is the largest size tire recommended for an unmodified GL?
I've seen 195/65R-14 on one and it looked good. Obviously my spare is even bigger. (70R)
My current tires have enough tread, but I think I'll be replacing them within a year.

[2nd Hand Yank]

My bumper is an aftermarket aluminium piece with an integrated (welded to bumper) roobar.

It would be unwise to try a vehicle-extraction with tow-straps around the roobar?

I probably wouldn't do that anyways, but it would be nice to know just in case someone asks.

[2nd Hand Yank]

Don't buy a cheap immobilizer then.. put the extra $$ in and buy a good quality unit that has keyless entry. Just do a google search for 'immobilizer keyless entry' then happy hunting. I use Auto Watch but it's a personal choice.

Cheers,
Paul

Streuth, this car is becoming expensive quickly.

I've never heard of a state/province mandating immobilizers,
but if I must, I must... and it would be stupid for me not to get the keyless entry
only to buy keyless entry 1 year later as an added expense.

You save a lot buying an immobilizer/keyless entry combo system, than individual systems?

I wonder if I can find a immobilizer/keyless system that will also do keyless boot entry.

[El_Freddo]

Check out people's build threads for ideas - loads of them floating around!

Immobiliser - I like the shadow unit by Jaycar, it has an add on that allows you to have remote keyless entry and it also comes with a second button on the remote that can be wired in for boot access. But if you're going the remote entry you won't need it on a wagon if you wire in a lock actuator.

Being that your subi won't have central locking it will make the installation process a little more tricky for the remote central locking. I put a factory central locking system from a touring wagon into ruby scoo - love it!

Snatch points - only ever use something off the body, not the front bar. There are pics on the forum somewhere of subafury with his roo bar (wrap over like mine) ripped off one side with the other through the headlight after an attempted snatch on the beach... NEVER snatch from the tow BALL, it can become a flying projectile that is very dangerous...

Lighting, pretty simple, just need to nut out what you want to do and what products are available at your local - or hit up fleabay. I've got a fluro tube which worked great until it burnt out recently, I have a new one to go in but it's too damn cold to install it at the moment!

I found a 3 port cig lighter unit that replaces the ash tray very nicely - it runs a few different things from my engel (until I get my second battery wired in), phone charger, outside/inside temp unit (plus volt metre ) or a little cooler - just depends on what I'm up to as to what is used.

Driving lights are also a major advantage at night. Get a decent set and you won't look back!

That's all for now I think...

Cheers

Bennie

[GOD]

1) Would "particle board" (compressed wood chips/shavings with glue) be okay under a jack, or should I try to find plywood? I have some particle board.

Chipboard (that's Australian for particle board) will probably do, but you'd need about twice the thickness. In a pinch the lid of the toolbox under the boot floor can also be used as a jacking base.

4) Mine is a GL. Is the rear diff open, or LSD?

It'll be open, and probably a 3.7:1 ratio. There is (or at least there was) a sticker on the back of the rear diff housing showing the ratio and whether it's an LSD

5) I'm mostly concerned with the structural intergrity of the roobar. I've heard of salt-spray destroying aluminium screen/storm doors in homes by the beach.

I'm quite certain that will not be an issue. Look at aluminium alloy boats. And if you're spending that much time getting the car wet with salt spray, you have other things to worry about

Thanks RSR 555.

10) Spare Tire
Does it have to match the diameter of the tires you are running?

Matching sizes, brands, tread patterns and wear are best. When you have different tyres across a diff, that diff's planet (?) gears have to spin faster than they normally would, resulting in increased wear. If you engage 4wd with different sized tyres on, you also risk the fixed centre coupling, which requires the front and rear diffs to be turning at the same speed.

11) What is the largest size tire recommended for an unmodified GL?
I've seen 195/65R-14 on one and it looked good. Obviously my spare is even bigger. (70R)

I have 185R14 LTs, which fit perfectly, and the standard engine can dirve them without trouble. Some proper all terrain tread patterns are available in this size. You can fit anything up to 27", but the increased gearing will make your engine feel even more gutless.

My bumper is an aftermarket aluminium piece with an integrated (welded to bumper) roobar.

It would be unwise to try a vehicle-extraction with tow-straps around the roobar?

Yes it would be unwise. Use the tiedown points under the car. If you're snatching, tell the snatcher to start very slowly and if it doesn't work, try again slightly quicker.

Streuth, this car is becoming expensive quickly.

Yep, they do that.
[/quote]

I've never heard of a state/province mandating immobilizers,
but if I must, I must... and it would be stupid for me not to get the keyless entry
only to buy keyless entry 1 year later as an added expense.

You save a lot buying an immobilizer/keyless entry combo system, than individual systems?

I wonder if I can find a immobilizer/keyless system that will also do keyless boot entry.

Get a remote immobiliser to satisfy the WA rego requirements. The immobiliser will have provision to output to a central locking kit that you can add later on.

You can probably add an extra slave door actuator to a central locking kit to unlock the boot as well. Or get an immobiliser with two buttons on the remote and have the second button operate an actuator in the boot.

Dane.

[sven '2']

I am confused as which car you bought - it was the L for $3,800 from the other thread? - ie car number 1?

Is it being shipped from SA to you - so you have not driven it/seen it prior to purchase?

And yes, SA is kind to cars as it does not rain much, but I can assure you, there are plenty of beaches filled with salty goodness! Do not worry about the bar corroding - it will be there long after the car!

[El_Freddo]

I use and love the exhaust jack for the beach but can use in other places if you use a small tarp.. brought off Fleabay for about $60 del.

+1 I've been meaning to get one of these ever since helping an elderly couple that dropped a wheel over the edge of a driveway into the gutter (blue stone lined trench really) when entering the property. They had one for their lap when towing a caravan - very easy to use, can become unstable if not setup properly once at a high level of inflation...

Think I'm going to fleabay now...

Cheers

Bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

Immobiliser - I like the shadow unit by Jaycar, it has an add on that allows you to have remote keyless entry and it also comes with a second button on the remote that can be wired in for boot access. But if you're going the remote entry you won't need it on a wagon if you wire in a lock actuator.

Being that your subi won't have central locking it will make the installation process a little more tricky for the remote central locking. I put a factory central locking system from a touring wagon into ruby scoo - love it!

Snatch points - only ever use something off the body, not the front bar. There are pics on the forum somewhere of subafury with his roo bar (wrap over like mine) ripped off one side with the other through the headlight after an attempted snatch on the beach... NEVER snatch from the tow BALL, it can become a flying projectile that is very dangerous...

Lighting, pretty simple, just need to nut out what you want to do and what products are available at your local - or hit up fleabay. I've got a fluro tube which worked great until it burnt out recently, I have a new one to go in but it's too damn cold to install it at the moment!

I found a 3 port cig lighter unit that replaces the ash tray very nicely - it runs a few different things from my engel (until I get my second battery wired in), phone charger, outside/inside temp unit (plus volt metre ) or a little cooler - just depends on what I'm up to as to what is used.

Driving lights are also a major advantage at night. Get a decent set and you won't look back!

That's all for now I think...

Cheers

Bennie

Interesting

Something to think about...

Thanks for mentioning not to attach to tow ball.
But that makes me wonder, are there any acceptable snatch points for the rear of the car?
(What if you don't want to pull the car forward??? )

I'll look into lighting the next time I'm in the auto parts store.
Btw, my boot's struts don't hold up well. Common problem with old subis?
I'm figuring it's an easy fix?

Ah, a 2-3way 12 V splitter... Back to the auto parts store!

Driving lights?
Do you mean fog lights, the ones that are mounted in, or under the front bumper?
Or do you mean the ones that are often added to roobars (big spotlights) that are meant for "off-road only"?

Back in Canada,
I installed some high-output low beam bulbs (globes to Aussies?) that were amazing.
If I hit a dip in the road and see reflective signs on the highway (freeway) light up from a kilometre away!

[2nd Hand Yank]

Chipboard (that's Australian for particle board) will probably do, but you'd need about twice the thickness. In a pinch the lid of the toolbox under the boot floor can also be used as a jacking base.

It'll be open, and probably a 3.7:1 ratio. There is (or at least there was) a sticker on the back of the rear diff housing showing the ratio and whether it's an LSD


I'm quite certain that will not be an issue. Look at aluminium alloy boats. And if you're spending that much time getting the car wet with salt spray, you have other things to worry about

All good ideas

Matching sizes, brands, tread patterns and wear are best. When you have different tyres across a diff, that diff's planet (?) gears have to spin faster than they normally would, resulting in increased wear. If you engage 4wd with different sized tyres on, you also risk the fixed centre coupling, which requires the front and rear diffs to be turning at the same speed.


I have 185R14 LTs, which fit perfectly, and the standard engine can dirve them without trouble. Some proper all terrain tread patterns are available in this size.

You can fit anything up to 27", but the increased gearing will make your engine feel even more gutless.

I understand that, but I was hoping I could use a mismatched tiresize for 1000-1500 kms without damage to the drivetrain.

My car has the 185/70R-14's on them now.
I'll probably keep them at least until the start of summer.
But when I do go tire shopping, I was curious if it made sense to go a little bigger.
Thanks, I was just curious what are common tire size upgrades for offroading.

Looking at my wheels turn today,
my 185/70R-14's clear the front mud flaps by at least 1 cm when I turn the wheel lock-to-lock.
I could try my OVERSIZE SPARE (? ) to see if that clears when I turn.

To fit 27's, you'd need to do some fender cutting?

My passenger side front quarter panel has a small hole at the bottom.
(I missed that, as the driver side is in impeccable condition )
Rather than repair the hole, I could use that as excuse to roll/trim the fenders bigger?

Get a remote immobiliser to satisfy the WA rego requirements. The immobiliser will have provision to output to a central locking kit that you can add later on.

You can probably add an extra slave door actuator to a central locking kit to unlock the boot as well. Or get an immobiliser with two buttons on the remote and have the second button operate an actuator in the boot.

Dane.

Thanks. Keep recommending brands that might be able to do that. I don't know how soon I'll have to convert it...

[2nd Hand Yank]

I am confused as which car you bought - it was the L for $3,800 from the other thread? - ie car number 1?

Is it being shipped from SA to you - so you have not driven it/seen it prior to purchase?

And yes, SA is kind to cars as it does not rain much, but I can assure you, there are plenty of beaches filled with salty goodness! Do not worry about the bar corroding - it will be there long after the car!

Yes car #1 and I paid $3800

No, the seller bought it in SA, worked in SA a few weeks or months, drove to WA and has been in WA for a few months. He was a backpacker who will be leaving Australia soon. I do have records of service from the owner before him though.

I'm just surprised that there's a difference between subis from Perth and SA, as your winters are similar and overall rain and humidity patterns are somewhat similar. Are SA cars usually in much better shape than cars from other Eastern states?

[2nd Hand Yank]

exhaust jack?

Jack fits under the exhaust, or inflates from engine exhaust?
Sorry, but both sound a bit dodgy, so I'm having a laugh, but I'd like to learn.

[GOD]

But that makes me wonder, are there any acceptable snatch points for the rear of the car?
(What if you don't want to pull the car forward??? )

Just under the rear bumper are two more tiedown loops, which people have been known as snatch points.

Btw, my boot's struts don't hold up well. Common problem with old subis?
I'm figuring it's an easy fix?

Yep, common problem. Easy fix is a broomstick. Better fix is regassing or replacing the struts.

Ah, a 2-3way 12 V splitter... Back to the auto parts store!

You can use a double or triple adapter, but I reckon they look untidy, and you have to be wary of pulling more than 10A total through the standard cig lighter. I prefer to have several lighter sockets around the car, each with a separately fused power supply off the battery.

Driving lights?
Do you mean fog lights, the ones that are mounted in, or under the front bumper?
Or do you mean the ones that are often added to roobars (big spotlights) that are meant for "off-road only"?

He's talking about driving/spot lights, i.e. the big roobar-mounted ones. They're perfectly acceptable and beneficial for on road use, they just need to be wired through the high beam circuit so they switch off when you dip the headlights for oncoming traffic. Fog lights (low mounted ones) are a waste of time for most Australians, despite what all the wankers with late model Commodores and Falcons think.

Back in Canada,
I installed some high-output low beam bulbs (globes to Aussies?) that were amazing.
If I hit a dip in the road and see reflective signs on the highway (freeway) light up from a kilometre away!

[/quote]
Yes, you can get high-output globes, just make sure they're still 55W. I like Narva +50s. You can also rewire the headlights to eliminate the voltage drop caused by crusty old cheap Subaru wiring.

stuff about tyres

Use that spare if you have to. I'd recommend putting it on the back.

To fit 27" tyres, you have to cut or fold in a tiny bit of the lower front corner of each wheel arch, remove the mudflaps and bash flat a pinch weld on the firewall.

immobilisers and rego

I think you have 12 weeks (or was it only 4?) to get WA rego, but most people just wait until the old rego expires. I had this mob put a remote immobiliser in one of my old cars. Are you aware the car will require a roadworthiness inspection to get WA registration?

exhaust jack

A big balloon that connects to the exhaust to inflate.

Dane.

[2nd Hand Yank]

Just under the rear bumper are two more tiedown loops, which people have been known as snatch points.


Yep, common problem. Easy fix is a broomstick. Better fix is regassing or replacing the struts.

Thanks

I might try the first one. I'm not on a miner's salary. (yet? )

You can use a double or triple adapter, but I reckon they look untidy, and you have to be wary of pulling more than 10A total through the standard cig lighter. I prefer to have several lighter sockets around the car, each with a separately fused power supply off the battery.

An even better idea. Might consider making extra power points.

He's talking about driving/spot lights, i.e. the big roobar-mounted ones. They're perfectly acceptable and beneficial for on road use, they just need to be wired through the high beam circuit so they switch off when you dip the headlights for oncoming traffic. Fog lights (low mounted ones) are a waste of time for most Australians, despite what all the wankers with late model Commodores and Falcons think.

I never knew they were allowed to be wired into the highbeams.
In North America they always have the warning "Off Road Use Only"
so I never thought I'd use them much.

Btw, I've heard a rumour that high-beams "stun" kangaroos and makes them more likely to stop in the road.
I'm thinking low beams aren't very good for seeing distance at night, so they are still safer.

Thoughts?

Yes, you can get high-output globes, just make sure they're still 55W. I like Narva +50s. You can also rewire the headlights to eliminate the voltage drop caused by crusty old cheap Subaru wiring.

Crusty wiring?
They rob power because of deterioration,
or that Subaru made their wiring not very efficiently?
I've seen this in car magazines for cars from the 1960's, redoing wiring for extra output.

Use that spare if you have to. I'd recommend putting it on the back.

So it's a bit too big for the front fenders?
A bump while steering could scrub my front mud-guards?
I understand the rear tires don't turn so there's always room.

To fit 27" tyres, you have to cut or fold in a tiny bit of the lower front corner of each wheel arch, remove the mudflaps and bash flat a pinch weld on the firewall.

I figured.

I met up with a mechanic today, he has a Brumby.
He looked at my car and said my tire's sidewalls are already sticking a bit outboard of my wheelwells... 1-3 cm is my guess.

So 195's would not be a good idea for WA rego, without different wheel spacing?

I think you have 12 weeks (or was it only 4?) to get WA rego, but most people just wait until the old rego expires.

I had this mob put a remote immobiliser in one of my old cars.

Are you aware the car will require a roadworthiness inspection to get WA registration?

It's actually registered in SA until Dec 2011.

Thanks

Yes, I understand that. Immobilizer would have to accompany that.
Hopefully I can keep the SA plates for a few months and not buy an immobilizer just yet.

A big balloon that connects to the exhaust to inflate.

Dane.

Where do you get exhaust jacks? Or do you make them yourself? (homemade)

[2nd Hand Yank]

And yes, SA is kind to cars as it does not rain much, but I can assure you, there are plenty of beaches filled with salty goodness! Do not worry about the bar corroding - it will be there long after the car!

I think I found out why it's less rusty than Perth's L Series;
the car was registered "somewhere" near the Murray/Riverina area of SA.
That area is practically desert, with what, 30-40 days of rain a year?

[2nd Hand Yank]

The same mechanic I met had a good look and said it's got a 2 inch lift,
both from body and suspension lift. 1 inch of each?

I like the ride height of my subi.
Just enough height it doesn't look like a normal 2wd car/wagon.

Should I post pictures of the lift, so they type of lift can be identified?

[GOD]

I never knew they were allowed to be wired into the highbeams.
In North America they always have the warning "Off Road Use Only"
so I never thought I'd use them much.

Btw, I've heard a rumour that high-beams "stun" kangaroos and makes them more likely to stop in the road.
I'm thinking low beams aren't very good for seeing distance at night, so they are still safer.

Thoughts?

Not only are they allowed to be wired with the high beams, they must be. The idea is that wherever you'd have high beam off, the driving lights are off as well so they don't blind anyone. Then when you've got the road to yourself, flick all the lights on.

Yes, bright lights will blind, confuse and sometimes stop a kangaroo. But that's the roo's problem, not mine - I'd rather have as much light as possible, then work on dodging or flattening (depending on which car I'm in) whatever beasts may appear.

Crusty wiring?
They rob power because of deterioration,
or that Subaru made their wiring not very efficiently?
I've seen this in car magazines for cars from the 1960's, redoing wiring for extra output.

Both. The idea is to use the standard wiring to trigger a new relay, which switches nice, new, good quality power wires to the lights. There are instructions floating around if you're not sure.

So it's a bit too big for the front fenders?
A bump while steering could scrub my front mud-guards?
I understand the rear tires don't turn so there's always room.

I was more thinking about keeping the odd size away from the steering, brakes and powered diff. Probably doesn't make a lot of difference.

I met up with a mechanic today, he has a Brumby.
He looked at my car and said my tire's sidewalls are already sticking a bit outboard of my wheelwells... 1-3 cm is my guess.

So 195's would not be a good idea for WA rego, without different wheel spacing?

Wheels hanging outboard of the guards is due to the offset (backspacing) of the commonly available 14" wheels. You'll have the same problem with any size tyres on those rims. Get rubber flares to make it all legal.

Where do you get exhaust jacks? Or do you make them yourself? (homemade)

4wd accessory shops. Or maybe you could make one if you're a master seamstress

lift kit

Show us some pics of the car, including the lift kit. It'll probably be a 2" body lift. Suspension lifting is uncommon with these cars.

Dane.