EA81 Overhaul thread

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:07 pm

Silverbullet wrote:What can I do? there's no way I can accurately get the correct torque on it, actually I can't get ANY torque on it Do I need to go out and try to find some special tool to get in there?

Or buy another (size 14mm??) socket and shave the side out of it so that you can access and torque that headbolt properly

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:47 pm

you need one of these or the ground down socket

from your thread,picture supplied by Steptoe

TOONGA

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:17 pm

Yeah I remember, also thought I remembered something about it being a difficult tool to come by?

Might be able to get to supercrap tonight if they're open and get a cheap socket (17mm) to grind down.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:09 pm

Got a cheap socket and ground it down, ended up with below pic and that was only just enough to get about 1/8th of a turn

After that though the heads went on with no troubles, looks like an engine again! Next is the oil pick up tube (dread

) and oil pan. Right now the pickup tube is in the freezer so waiting for that to cool off a bit

While I was there I did the valve clearances, so much easier when you're sitting right in front of them

What's left of the socket

Head slid on nice and easy, installed the pushrods

Rocker arm assembly and bolts

Looking like an engine again!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:23 pm

Good work Silverbullet!

Probably a good idea to cover the intake ports, distributor hole and shove a rag in the water pump (just being pedantic) as well as the exhaust ports. This just insures that nothing gets into your fresh motor while your'e not around

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 5:24 pm

Good idea Bennie, all holes are now safely covered, and no rags this time

Just put the oil pickup tube and sump back together, not as hard as I thought. Once the tube was frozen I just tapped a block of wood with a hammer against the flange and it went straight in. Hardest part was cleaning the bloody sump, spent an hour and almost a whole can of degreaser and it still wasn't totally clean. Then I realized there was still a gasket on there, literally had to chisel that off it was so old

Good news too, just found a clutch kit for $99, thermostat for $15 and oil pressure sender for $8, all ready to pickup on monday, Autopro is now my new favorite parts shop

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:45 am

I give you credit for socket remanufacturing. I was sort of afraid if I did same it would be too weak to handle the torque. If it does fail a socket in impact style may work better.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:59 pm

Nah socket held up fine, it would take a hell of a lot to break even half a socket like I used.

Little bit more progress today, cleaned up the oil pump and installed it along with water pump. I'm debating what to do next, I wasn't going to put the manifold back on until the engine is back in the car, it would just make putting the engine back alot easier (won't have to worry about damaging fragile parts) Same with the alternator.

So I'm pretty much left with nothing to do until a few weeks time when I have a weekend when dad is off so we can go and hire a crane. Going to be annoying seeing the finished engine sitting idle in the shed all that time

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:01 pm

Silverbullet wrote: So I'm pretty much left with nothing to do until a few weeks time when I have a weekend when dad is off so we can go and hire a crane. Going to be annoying seeing the finished engine sitting idle in the shed all that time

I've lifted my complete EA82 in and out several times with two or three mates. It is a bit of effort but you don't need a crane if you've got some good mates who like to help out

It'll save you a couple of weeks if you're keen - and it's good fun too. The EA81 as it is would be easier to handle without the intake manifold etc on it.

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:03 am

You could get your roatry brush dremel style and polish up the block

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:50 pm

Sheesh that would take a while

do you mean a polishing wheel or a wire brush? Kinda wishing I got it all sand blasted while it was apart...oh well. It's still 100x cleaner than when I started.

Also turns out someone I know has an engine hoist, can borrow it whenever I like

So possibly engine in next weekend if I can find a way to transport the crane. Bennie if I waited until enough of my friends were all free on the same day it would probably be a longer wait than waiting for a crane

Some nice news too, got full time work starting tomorrow for at least a couple of months, can finally start doing some serious things to the car soon

Dunno what to get first...

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:25 pm

Been a while since last update, haven't had any time to do anything, and still waiting for a chance to pick up the engine hoist. Will definitely be next weekend and hopefully engine in on same day.

Today I just cleaned up the crossmember and scraped some grease of the engine mounts ready for next week. That was one filthy crossmember, had to soak the whole lot in degreaser and pretty much pour straight thinner onto it and scrub it with a toothbrush. Then used a whole t-shirt to wipe away the loosened sludge that was left.

Before, very blurry pic but you can kinda see how much was there (this was after I scraped the worst of the grease off though)

After, so clean!

I got the new clutch and thermostat as well and an oil sender. But this sender is slightly different to the old one, it fits in the hole but the connection on the other end is completely different, never seen one like it before don't even know what kind of connector would fit it

Also looking at the clutch fork and throwout bearing I've noticed the bearing is press fitted into a holder sort of thing, how do I separate the two? The book has no mention of it.

Not getting too excited yet but it would be great to have my car back, getting sick of catching the buses home every day

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:47 pm

Clean is good. Wax and grease remover does god on CV boot grease where degreasers do diddly squat. Oil sender connector does it look like a flat round button 6mm across on a thin 'neck' ? A female spade slips over them at 90 degrees, same female fits spade terminal.
Oh, was wondering what happened to the importance of the car ...public bus saves the day. Sort of why I have two cars - not been on a bus since I was 15.5 when it cost 20c a ride, 40c for dults, now $4.00 I'm told.
So...we have to wait another week ??

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:54 pm

the throw out bearing is "pressed" onto the caddy/ holder for want of words.

Take note of the way the old bearing is seated on the caddy/holder you will notice the base of the bearing can be seen from the back of the caddy/holder.
place the bearing on top of a vice so the caddy/holder fits loosely between the jaws of the vice then find a socket the same size as the top inner part of the caddy/holder and tap the socket on this. the caddy/holder should slowly slip off the bearing.

as for replacing the bearing I reverse the order (making sure the vice top is cushioned) and tap the caddy/holder gently into place

I hope that you can understand those instructions as the ones in the gregorys are worse

direct quotes from page 124 -125 in the clutch section of my 1979/1987 501 gregorys

removal...(6) on models with a clutch release bearing and carrier, support the bearing on its outer edge on the open jaws of a vice and using a suitable drift and alternate blows on the side of the carrier drive the carrier from the bearing.

Installation (3) on models with a clutch release bearing and carrier, using a suitable pressand press plates to supprt the bearing and press the bearing onto the carrier until it abuts the carrier shoulder. Check the operation of the bearing for smoothness

TOONGA

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 7:10 pm

Thanks for the instructions toonga, had a feeling I would need to tap it out in the vice or some such.

Jonno is this what you meant? New one on the right old on the left. The "circle" pin on the new one is the same width as the tab on the old one, but the connector would only be holding onto about 2mm at the most, seems a bit flimsy to me

And yes another frustrating week, luckily dad goes past my work on his way at exactly the right time so I only have to go one way on the bus, but it's either 2 x $2.60 singles or one $4.30 day trip, and that's student prices! Even though I'm not a student anymore as of a week ago

Oh and if all goes well during this week, I may have a nice little finishing touch for this engine

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 7:13 pm

yeah, sorry, only guessing as my eyesight ain't what it was ten minutes earlier - can't even see the one on the left or the right

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 7:20 pm

Yeah forgot to add link, have another look

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:52 pm

Right, Saturday is the day! picking up an engine hoist first thing in the morning, got all the bits I need (hopefully) and got 2 full days to tinker. Just one thing I've thought of, what do I need to seal the exhaust gasket surfaces? is there special high temp sealer for exhausts? Got the gaskets already.

So, watch this space over the weekend

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:59 pm

Yep, squeeze the female spade terminal to keep better drip. You can get both types just different part numbers.

Yeah, good, lets get this thread into the archives by next weekend eh?

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:18 pm

Silverbullet wrote:Right, Saturday is the day! picking up an engine hoist first thing in the morning, got all the bits I need (hopefully) and got 2 full days to tinker. Just one thing I've thought of, what do I need to seal the exhaust gasket surfaces? is there special high temp sealer for exhausts? Got the gaskets already.

So, watch this space over the weekend

The best thing to use these days is silicon RTV sealant.

You can use a high temp type like copper ( and pay for it ), or any normal silastic etc.
The stuff doesn't burn, I've used it for years.