Doing the heads on an EA81

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat May 07, 2011 5:35 pm

re-ring is going to be the way out if you can get a piston if that is what is rooted

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun May 08, 2011 6:36 pm

sven '2' wrote:EA82T in L-Series wagon (with discs all round) is ok because the RX was out here.

That is shite! As for the above quote, this is not allowed without engineering in victoria because the L series wagon didn't come out as a factory turbo in Oz... Go figure!!

Silverbullet wrote:I was reading a bit about re-bores and it seems you only need to if the bore is worn out, but on my bores you can still see the cross-hatching.

You may still be able to see the original honing marks in the bore, but it doesn't mean they'll work/seal with new ring like a honing intends them to.

Silverbullet wrote:Or is a re-bore and hone just part of the process for rebuilding any engine? And a related question, if you re-ring the pistons does the bore need to be honed for the new rings?
Just sending the block off the be bored and honed sounds like a lot of cash I can't spend unless I really have to

If you want your engine to go the distance with new rings a honing at the very least is a must to help the bore and the rings bed in together. If your pistons are all out of whack and need a new set of piston heads a re-bore (enlarging the diametre size of the cylinder) will be needed. This will ensure that everything matches and works as they should.

And what we're saying is that if you're going to the effort of putting in new rings and bearings to sort out what the problem is, you might as well go the whole hog and do it properly the first time. Not only will you have removed the problem, you'll have a fresh engine that will look after you for a long time to come.

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu May 12, 2011 5:46 pm

Cylinder heads came back today, all cleaned up, newly faced and heli-coiled, Looking great!

Also got a full gasket set (inlet, exhaust, head gaskets and rocker cover gaskets as well as some other rings and bits I can't identify) And the same shop will do the cylinder hone.

Picking up an ebay special engine stand tonight, hiring an engine crane tomorrow morning and pulling the block out tomorrow. Will probably start disassembly tomorrow and over the weekend. I was looking through the book and a few videos on engine rebuilds and was wondering what special tools do I need? is there one for taking piston pins out? circlips? I know about piston ring compressor, and probably will be getting a micrometer as well. What about lifter removal and anything around the crankshaft and camshaft?
And what can I get by without?

Cheers

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Thu May 12, 2011 5:52 pm

Special tools you'll need:
a 14mm 1/2 drive to remove the gudgeon pin plugs.

A slide hammer with a 90 degree hook on the end for the gudgeon pins.

3/8 and 1/2 tension wrenches.

And the special adaptor to torque up the head bolts with the rocker shafts in place.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu May 12, 2011 7:27 pm

littlewhiteute wrote:Special tools you'll need:
a 14mm 1/2 drive to remove the gudgeon pin plugs.

A slide hammer with a 90 degree hook on the end for the gudgeon pins.

3/8 and 1/2 tension wrenches.

And the special adaptor to torque up the head bolts with the rocker shafts in place.

Do you really need an adapter? a regular 17mm socket fit over the bolt just fine for me when I took them out. Other than that I just need the slide hammer, and ring compressor.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:08 pm

Silverbullet wrote:Do you really need an adapter? a regular 17mm socket fit over the bolt just fine for me when I took them out. Other than that I just need the slide hammer, and ring compressor.

It can be done, but it is easier and more correct to use the adaptor.

There is 2 headbolts which you can't get at as easily in the torque up sequence.

The sequence INCLUDES the rocker shaft bolts.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu May 12, 2011 10:48 pm

22mm socket on the front pulley before remove engine (or what you have left of it:) ) Crank her over with ignition off so it wont start (funny bugger) fuel fuse pulled and 600mm breaker bar jammed in under the LHS chassis rail.

14mm above is 14mm hex key in a half inch socket.
If you are lucky you will just pull the gudgeons out with suction of finger inside them. I have made a puller out of an old head bolt from EA Falcon? grinding things down so a lip sits over the back of the gudgeon and dragged engine halfway around the garage to get them out.

You know the good thing about this is that you won't have to service or clean the carby and inlet manifold as you have already done it. I would be cleaning out any PCV hoses and valves while at it.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri May 13, 2011 12:07 am

steptoe wrote:22mm socket on the front pulley before remove engine (or what you have left of it:) ) Crank her over with ignition off so it wont start (funny bugger) fuel fuse pulled and 600mm breaker bar jammed in under the LHS chassis rail.

Great idea! we were wondering how on earth we're going to get that nut off, was thinking about leaving it in gear and turning the nut anti clockwise but didn't want to turn the motor anti clockwise with it. That sounds good as long as the bar doesn't slip and fly out denting something...or someone

Yeah I still don't even know if I rebuilt the carb right, haven't had it running properly for about a month

And I won't need to buy inlet manifold gaskets for a while, the new kit came with a pair but I already had a pair from FROG

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Fri May 13, 2011 6:09 am

Silverbullet wrote:Great idea! we were wondering how on earth we're going to get that nut off, was thinking about leaving it in gear and turning the nut anti clockwise but didn't want to turn the motor anti clockwise with it.
That sounds good as long as the bar doesn't slip and fly out denting something...or someone

No worries about anti-clockwise, you can't hurt anything.

Gear driven single cam pushrod engine.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri May 13, 2011 9:49 am

With starter motor turning the motor its usual way, the long bar at the left handside of the rail, think it smacks on the concrete to undo. L Series have a tow hook I use to contain any loose handle stuff. Have radiator out first - just in case. Done it many times

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri May 13, 2011 3:52 pm

steptoe wrote:With starter motor turning the motor its usual way, the long bar at the left handside of the rail, think it smacks on the concrete to undo. L Series have a tow hook I use to contain any loose handle stuff. Have radiator out first - just in case. Done it many times

Oh you meant put it on the concrete, I just snugged it up to the tow hook and tied it with a bit of rope to stop it flying around. Didn't have a long enough breaker bar so put a piece of pipe as an extension. One tiny blip of the starter and the nut was loose, brilliant! I'll remember that tip for next time

And I'm happy to announce, the engine is out!

:D
Went and bought the trolley jack and hired a crane this morning, it was a bit of a fiddle getting the bottom flywheel housing studs free and clear but the whole thing took less than an hour.
It's out under the carport now on the stand dripping oil on the concrete, first task I think is scraping all the CV grease off of the underside and engine mount area. A few split CV boots has sprayed a decent amount of grease all over the back of the engine, crossmember and steering area.

Getting ready to lift:

It's out!

Backside, not looking forward to putting it back and getting the clutch lined up right

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat May 14, 2011 1:40 am

Doing really well with this.

To clean CV grease I find Pprepsol or wax and grease remover as it is better known is the ducks guts for clean up.

Depending on how tight or siezed the bolts are that bolt engine cross member to chassis I undo them an inch or so to last threads to give me more flexibility in access and line up of the lower studs in bellhousing to gearbox bell housing. If they are too tight can be a dirty swearing job to repair. Lube overnight and rattle gun them undone next day.