EJ18 -> MY Tourer cont. More Q's

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:54 pm

I just spent about 8 hours in the last few days cutting up my uncut harness, it is a PAIN!!! (Stupid me forgot to label the connectors before he unpluged them!) Also, using an AT harness on a MT is not advisable! Too many extra wires!

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:22 pm

Spent some time on it today, the auto box is now out of the tourer and laying on the floor in a puddle of AT fluid:

So know it's time for some engine bay clean up and preperation.

Good News:
One of the cv boots was torn so I ripped off the DOJ and tried it on the FWD EJ box, fit's like a dream YAY

Upon closer inspection discovered the engine is infact MPFI WOOHOO

Bad News:
The clutch plate is less than half a mm away from the rivets so it needs replacing, but the fly wheel and pressure plate look new, no grooves, etc.

Reckon I could get away with just replacing the clutch plate?

Jordan.

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:38 pm

Also would this do the job for the fuel pump? EBay Pump

The best price I could find in the bosch pump is about $220, between that and the clutch my budget is severely blown, no more AWD

(for now)

Is there any reason I would be better of going with a genuine subaru clutch kit over an aftermarket kit?

Prices I've got so far for a full kit are (haven't done much hunting yet):
$480 for genuine
$350 for aftermarket

Thanks again,
Jordan.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:52 pm

hey Jordan this is abit of topic but i noticed the telstra rope on the floor near the motor . i hope you're not using it for lifting the motor i did three weeks ago with some interesting results .last weekend i used a new bit and it worked better but it was a bit scary.

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:04 pm

I'd be replacing the entire clutch as a kit, including pressure plate, clutch plate and thrust bearing. No reason at all to go genuine, any well known aftermarket brand should do just fine. $480 is an absolute rip, I got my pull type turbo Exedy kit for less than $370! Surely a non turbo clutch kit would cost no more than $250!

$220 on the pump? I can get them for about $140! Maybe we should talk freight...

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:09 pm

hahaha good old telstra rope.

I used it for lifting my EA81 and EK42 (sherpa motor) but each time I used it doubled up, 2 pieces went from the motor over a beam and back to the motor, so there were 4 pieces of rope, did that on each end of the motor, so all up there were 8 pieces of rope holding the 80ish kg of the motor, gotta love truckies hitches, worked like a dream.

I would NEVER even consider using it for an EJ or an EA+gearbox.

Jordan.

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:13 pm

OK full kit it is, I'll do some more hunting, if that still turns up no better then we'll talk freight.

Whats the consensus on flywheel machining?

Jordan.

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:16 pm

I'd do it if you wanted to be safe, that said I have swapped at least 5 clutches without doing it and they were OK, including my two current clutches.

I only did it the other times because I could feel ridges, but as you said yours is smooth.

Non-essential is my verdict. Up to you.

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:20 pm

I'll pass on the machining then, maybe a quick rub with 1200 grit wet and dry to clean up the rust.

Jordan.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:13 am

For your wiring harness repair you just need a minimum 100W soldering iron and various dia heat shrink tubing, can make quite a neat repair. From the pic I don't see any shielded wires.......

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:48 am

BaronVonChickenPants wrote: hahaha good old telstra rope.

I used it for lifting my EA81 and EK42 (sherpa motor) but each time I used it doubled up, 2 pieces went from the motor over a beam and back to the motor, so there were 4 pieces of rope, did that on each end of the motor, so all up there were 8 pieces of rope holding the 80ish kg of the motor, gotta love truckies hitches, worked like a dream.

I would NEVER even consider using it for an EJ or an EA+gearbox.

Jordan.

I have used the same piece of $2 for 10 metres FDB's rope for several years to do all manner of things - INCLUDING towing my wagon around when I needed to move it when it had no engine...

Nothing wrong with using cheap rope/telstra rope as long as you use it responsibly ie, many loops!!!

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:36 am

fred-sub wrote:For your wiring harness repair you just need a minimum 100W soldering iron and various dia heat shrink tubing, can make quite a neat repair.

Yeah thats what I was planning on doing, glad I was on the right track.

From the pic I don't see any shielded wires.......

I noticed that to, I thought there might be some either inside the big ball of wires or in the wires that go through the firewall, if I do come across some sheilded wires I was thinking of using sheilded microphone style cable for them.

Jordan.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:58 am

thinking of using sheilded microphone style cable for them.

oh no not that cheap stuff from jaycar/dse. Best to repair them too

repair the inner with a heatshrink as b4, but strip enough to combine the shield too.
Then cover with Al foil over the shielding, and finally heat shrink.
If this works ok for rf cable joining its going to be ok for this

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 12:08 pm

Point noted, I considered doing it that way but thought it might have been a bit dodgy but if it shields rf cable than as you said it'll do the job I need.

Jordan.

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 2:19 pm

On my EJ20T there are about 4 shielded cables

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:26 pm

Mine has them for

Cam Angle Sensor
Crank Angle Sensor
O2 Sensor
MAP (at least thats what I think it is!!)
and a couple of other things that I don't know what they do, some aren't even connected....

Fredsub's method for joining the cable is complete overkill - I like it

But in the bush you can do it by undercutting the inner bit, join, tape, fold back over the shield, tape..... It'll be fine... But at home do Fredsub's way!