fixing connector plugs

Post by **Alex** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:54 am

hey guys,

was changing out my knock sensor last night, went to unplug it and the pin on the loom side of the connector just fell out.

tried to shove it back in there, thought i had it back in good, but obviously not, it just came out with very little force again.

is there a trick to getting them back in nice and tight?

any help would be awesome!

thanks

alex

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:01 am

Alex short of cutting out the old plug on the loom and soldering in a new plug (what I would do) I have no other suggestions:(

TOONGA

Post by **Alex** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:25 am

yeah ive thought about trying to solder in a new plug, but it seems fairly impossible.

the knock sensor has its own special plug and trying to solder the existing one will only mangle it i think.

the wire on the knock sensor is more like a rca looking wire, i stripped my old one down and its full of insulated wiring and stuff. Abit too extreme for me to play with.

Im too scared to strip down the wire on the loom side of the sensor, just incase its a similar type wire.

I spose ill have to have a real good look this arvo is the daylight.

as usual such an easy thing to replace has turned into something way more complicated. Thanks subaru! haha

alex

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:12 am

I'd look at just using some supa-glue.. not too much or you'll block up the hole for the pin to slid in.

Post by **Alex** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:28 am

lol holy crap! how did i not think of that!

thanks paul!

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:32 am

Nps Alex.. sometimes I have those brain fads too.. mostly after the weekend of CC & Dry

Post by **Alex** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:37 am

makes me wonder if the sensor was actually dicky hey.

might have just been the connection all along!

will glue and tape and liquid nails and plastic weld and clamp the connector together tonight.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:09 pm

Narva part # 56230 are the females, 56231 the males -suit the L Series

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:59 pm

if the bodge job doesn't work then I'd advise to solder on a new socket on one side and a new plug on the other. Get some nice new connectors from Jaycar or Altronics, any pair of male/female should do the trick. If the knock sensor has a wire on it then this is really the best solution.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:28 pm

LOL.. coming from Mr Bodge himself

Post by **Alex** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:57 am

the problem with that andrew is that the knock sensor has a core wire, with heavy insulation, then a surrounding wire and more insulation. Much like an antenna cable or sumthing.

What i ended up doing was pulling the pins out of both connectors, throwing the connectors away and joining the two pins together, soldering, taping it up nicely and then conduit over the whole thing. Worked well for about 3km of driving, with no check engine warnings while it was cold, which is when it always normally throws the engine light on.

The light came on and stayed on until i got home, with a constant power retardation, it previously only flickered on and off for 15seconds maximum.

Got home, loosened off the sensor and wire, its quite a tight fit and gave the wire sum extra play as it was pulled tight previously(tight arse subaru wiring) On the next test drive the light was gone, for good this time hopefully!

Didnt realise how fiddly and tempremental this pathetic sensor is.

or MAYBE my engine has a knock...but it doesnt

alex

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:50 am

Good work then.....

saw with a smile ...Falcon six knock sensor bolts to block and has short wires come out of it in well protected location. May try it on my unit

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:15 am

lol, I love bodging things on my own L series, it's only an old shitbox and my budget is always $0 and 30 seconds of time.
Pity soldering isn't an option then Alex, hopefully it will stay reliable now anyways.