MY shifter bushes

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:45 pm

Hey guys, sorry if this has been covered elsewhere but I've done a few searches and have heard mention of a step by step thread for this but I couldn't find it

The gearstick in the MY is very very floppy, I'm talking <150mm of play when its IN gear

I've taken the rubber boot off and the range lever and had a good look inside but I couldn't find which bushes needed replacing. The roll pin has already been replaced with a nut and bolt.

Basically I want to know which bushes are the ones to replace, and how I can find the part number to go and buy them. Or do I just take the below diagram in and point out which ones I want? Or maybe someone could point me in the direction of the instrucional thread

I was thinking they were parts 4 (bushing, rubber), 8 (bushing, rubber) and 9 (bushing, resin)?

Cheers!
-Sam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:10 pm

# 4, under 1 to 4 gear lever, and #14 and #42. Any Sub dealer parts guy worth anything will almost know the numbers and have them on the shelf - you will have that look on you when you open mouth and say my Brumbys gear stick is... and he or she will say "loose or sloppy?". Have fixed a few brumbys with the sloppy shifter with these about $20 worth ?. Also check your seal where 1 to 4 shifter rod enters box, good ime to replace if it is leaking.

My own old four speed some right spark did a temp repair that welded the shifter thing #13 to the un named rod, leaving a blob of weld to belt the seal every time. Bastartd of a job to alter so I could replace seals again. Glad to see that box gone - well it is not gone but not in service in my shed for last seven years or so.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:15 pm

And possibly the pin 14 where the linkage goes onto the shift rail.

The whole lot goes sloppy, best bet is to replace the pin with a bolt and nut.

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:59 pm

steptoe wrote:# 4, under 1 to 4 gear lever, and #14 and #42. Any Sub dealer parts guy worth anything will almost know the numbers and have them on the shelf - you will have that look on you when you open mouth and say my Brumbys gear stick is... and he or she will say "loose or sloppy?". .

BAHA HA
Dollar for every time Ive finished that sentance

I do a "kit"
which includes
#4 bush
#5 seal
#8 bush x2
#9 bush x2
#42 spacer
$35.88 plus postage to you
pm me here if you want
cheers Andy

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:02 pm

steptoe wrote:# 4, under 1 to 4 gear lever, and #14 and #42

Yeah I said roll pin I should have said #14 and #42 have already had the nut and bolt mod done.

And FROG that kit sounds like the bits I'll need, I'll send ya a PM

Thanks guys, once again you come up with the answers

Maybe I'll do a how to thread on this with pictures for each step for future reference.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:54 pm

Silverbullet wrote:Yeah I said roll pin I should have said #14 and #42 have already had the nut and bolt mod done.

If there wasn't a slot cut into the tube piece that covers the selector shaft I'd recommend cutting one into it as it helps it clamp the tube to the shaft thus reducing the strain on the bolt that replaces the roll pin...

All the bushes need to be done at once to eliminate the slop in the gear selector. Works a treat!

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:20 pm

El_Freddo wrote:If there wasn't a slot cut into the tube piece that covers the selector shaft I'd recommend cutting one into it as it helps it clamp the tube to the shaft thus reducing the strain on the bolt that replaces the roll pin...

All the bushes need to be done at once to eliminate the slop in the gear selector. Works a treat!

Cheers

Bennie

I'm not sure how cutting a slot would help clamp the tube to the shaft, but I'll have a look when I get there. I'm looking forward to seeing how worn out the old bushes are, they haven't been done since 1989

And I'm also looking forward to having a tighter shifter, the play in this one is shocking

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:27 pm

probably feels like a standard dak dak cable shifted gear lever ")

BBoypebs · Post by **BBoypebs** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:31 pm

All I do is cut two slots in the selector tube and crush it down in a vice.
Then I stick in a grade 10.8 bolt and do up bloody tight.
End result is very tight gears.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:01 pm

Oh do you mean a horizontal cut in the tube? that makes more sense, for some reason I was thinking vertical

mad_lib · Post by **mad_lib** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:29 pm

hey all,
i had a look at mine toady cause its very sloppy, some owner before me has already replaced the pin with a nut and bolt and cut the slot aswell but its still very floppy.
So i took the gearstick out to have a look at parts #4,5 and 6 and some dick has wrapped the whole lot in black electrical tape and jammed it back in there hoping it tightens things up, dodgy bastards. So i guess thats why my gearstick is sloppy

David D · Post by **David D** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 10:30 am

Hi Guys

Sorry to jump on this thread but does anyone know if this shifter slop will be an issue for a safety cert? Just so I know if I need to sort mine out before I get it inspected.

Cheers

David

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:28 pm

It would be wise to do so to avoid rejection or refusal to even test drive it. Could be opening can of worms every time we touch cars

brockharro · Post by **brockharro** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:30 pm

El_Freddo wrote:If there wasn't a slot cut into the tube piece that covers the selector shaft I'd recommend cutting one into it as it helps it clamp the tube to the shaft thus reducing the strain on the bolt that replaces the roll pin...

All the bushes need to be done at once to eliminate the slop in the gear selector. Works a treat!

Cheers

Bennie

I wouldnt recommend what benny said
i pulled myn out about 2 weeks ago and the slot was cut bigger and it was sloppy as shit
lucky a mate had an old MY that was had alot better condition one
we had to retap the the gearbox shaft and put a bigger bolt in and
the round tube bit also had a thread tapped in it but we put a nut on it just in case
its now the tightest brumby ive felt

David D · Post by **David D** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:46 pm

steptoe wrote:It would be wise to do so to avoid rejection or refusal to even test drive it. Could be opening can of worms every time we touch cars

Yeah, that makes sense. I'll ad it to my (ever expanding) 'to do' list!

Cheers

David