EA81 Hitachi carb baseline or what is wrong?

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 2:18 pm

I would say you could need a charcoal canister for a blue slip but I have no real idea

and with vacuum hoses I've found that hooking them up can actually make the engine run way better

TOONGA

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:47 pm

A point worth noting is the Weber DFV or Holley equivalent 1-238 180 cfm has the primary and secondary reversed.
The best you'll get with fitment is the primary will be at the rear of the manifold which makes mixture and speed adjustment not as easy.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 7:42 am

TOONGA wrote:I would say you could need a charcoal canister for a blue slip but I have no real idea

and with vacuum hoses I've found that hooking them up can actually make the engine run way better

TOONGA

Assuming the Subie motor had a charcoal canister setup originally then yes I do. The substitute motor needs to have all the original emissions equipment it was fitted with. I'm just pleased there is the tiny gap in the engineering requirements allowing me to do this without a certificate. When I figure out what I did with the Gregory's for the Magna I'll figure out if I can use it's canister.

littlewhiteute wrote:A point worth noting is the Weber DFV or Holley equivalent 1-238 180 cfm has the primary and secondary reversed.
The best you'll get with fitment is the primary will be at the rear of the manifold which makes mixture and speed adjustment not as easy.

Don't worry about that. I've dealt with that one before. Besides throttle cable is there any reason I can't turn it around anyway?
In the past I dealt with the screws facing the firewall in a few different ways, but then I just decided it was far easier to turn the carby around and shift the accelerator cable to the other side. Is there any reason I can't get away with that here?

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:49 am

normally the throttle cable is the problem, but you have about 3 feet extra from memory

TOONGA

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 9:05 am

Argh! My stupid ISP messed things up with one of their occasional intercepts to confirm details. I had replied.

I'll put some photos up, I swear!

In the mean time I paid for a Redline adapter and it is being sent USPS priority, so given the current state of int'l mail it should be here about 2017 I figure.

Accelerator cable is easy for me. I just need to reach up above the transmission, bend the cable tube over and thread the cable through the hole in the other side of the transmission mount. That puts it in a fairly good alignment with the throttle linkage.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 7:13 pm

RatCamper wrote:
Don't worry about that. I've dealt with that one before. Besides throttle cable is there any reason I can't turn it around anyway?
In the past I dealt with the screws facing the firewall in a few different ways, but then I just decided it was far easier to turn the carby around and shift the accelerator cable to the other side. Is there any reason I can't get away with that here?

I guess so, although the fuel bowl and fuel inlet plumbing are closer to the distributor than a DGV fitment.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 9:57 pm

littlewhiteute wrote:I guess so, although the fuel bowl and fuel inlet plumbing are closer to the distributor than a DGV fitment.

fffff.... The inlet. That's a problem. The bowl would probably clear without issue because all the stuff on the hitachi sticks out so far.
Well at worst the adapter plate should give me enough clearance that I can do an underslung linkage and have the adjuster screws facing the bellhousing. It just means I need a stubby screwdriver is all. I'm lucky enough to be able to lie on the bottom half of a bed while I'm adjusting the screws if they are backwards. This has the added advantage of keeping my fingers away from the pulleys and belt. I've already clipped them once.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:53 pm

I went to shift it in the yard today and she's weak. Not blowing smoke at least, but i needed to give it a bit of boot to get it going. possibly lean, who knows.
Bonus picture:

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:59 pm

thats a better shot of the carby 3 more showing the 3 other views would be nice

or even one showing the build numbers and you do have to remember that your motor was born in the early 80's and is in its mid 20's

TOONGA

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:32 am

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:33 am

What did you want to know about the motor? I know that knowing what model it came from would be awesome when trying to buy parts.

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:25 am

it wasn't so much about wanting information on the motor as saying it is a 20+ year old motor which is why it is a bit weak

did you ever get around to doing the valve clearances?

TOONGA

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:47 pm

I still have to do the valve clearances. Time has been a little short.
The motor wasn't weak when I got it. It could actually idle up ramps. It's not running stupidly rich now and the timing is roughly what it was. Roughly. So it could be either lean, retarded or both. I have replaced the distributor rotor and have the points sitting there ready to be installed. The only issue I have is that I kind of need the wire inside that connects to the points too but the Bosch kit only comes with the points, and no wire.

I realise the possibility is that it is just old and tired, but also even a relatively tired motor would be way ahead of the motor I pulled out which had a factory 65HP, and I'm certain had far less when I pulled it.
It's hard to ignore that it had more power when i got it. I think seeing what happens when I chuck a different carburettor on could be telling.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:10 pm

I put the replacement points in. After a bit of stuffing around and cheating with static timing I started it. Started fine, shifts back and forth with more power. Still seems to be running on three. not sure though. I think the power butterfly on that stupid hitachi jammed again because it started blowing smoke again once I did that. I forgot the radiator is just sort of hanging at the moment. Lucky I didn't dislodge it.
it also seems like the sump leaks where it meets the case near the bellhousing.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:10 pm

What can I say...

By the way when I pulled the Hitachi I noticed fuel sloshing around in the power throat held there by the butterfly. So, I'm uh... yeah.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:00 pm

Help!
So because I'm kind of stuck I figured cleaning out the hitachi can't hurt. Nothing blocked but a fair bit of loose carbon. Looks like someone had been in there before. Everything done up super tight and some damage to the screwdriver notches on some of the jets and an emulsion tube. Not too bad though.

So while I was cleaning a couple of bits became liberated:

I'm guessing the ball bearing goes at the bottom of the accelerator pump bore and is held in place with the tabby thing at the bottom of the spring. Correct?

I have no idea whatsoever where that needle valve goes. Help?

While I have it apart, does anyone know the float settings?

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:12 pm

RatCamper wrote:Help!
So because I'm kind of stuck I figured cleaning out the hitachi can't hurt. Nothing blocked but a fair bit of loose carbon. Looks like someone had been in there before. Everything done up super tight and some damage to the screwdriver notches on some of the jets and an emulsion tube. Not too bad though.

So while I was cleaning a couple of bits became liberated:

I'm guessing the ball bearing goes at the bottom of the accelerator pump bore and is held in place with the tabby thing at the bottom of the spring. Correct?

I have no idea whatsoever where that needle valve goes. Help?

While I have it apart, does anyone know the float settings?

Correct with the spring and ball, the outlet weight goes in the hole to the right of the primary air corrector.
You can see the accelerator pump nozzle in the pic. The taper faces down against the outlet seat.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:43 pm

My saviour! I thought that was where the missing bit went but didn't want to go shoving it in to somewhere it shouldn't be.

Now to put it back together and be once again horribly disappointed. Still kinda ticked about the adapter being wrong.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:41 pm

RatCamper wrote:My saviour! I thought that was where the missing bit went but didn't want to go shoving it in to somewhere it shouldn't be.

Now to put it back together and be once again horribly disappointed. Still kinda ticked about the adapter being wrong.

The adaptor you have is for 1400-1600 engines.

RatCamper · Post by **RatCamper** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:04 pm

littlewhiteute wrote:The adaptor you have is for 1400-1600 engines.

Yeah. I was told it was for an EA81. Sucks to be me. I'm guessing I need the two piece one?

Anyhow I put the carb back together best I could (the accelerator pump accordion bit is pretty rotten), shoved it back on, primed it and fired it up. After i got the engine limping on its own I readjusted the idle. The screws are more responsive now. I had to enrich the mix and back off the baseplate. I take that as a good sign. Unfortunately it has that uneven sucking a straw in an empty milkshake sound.
It still runs uneven too etc. and is smokey. I have a bad feeling about that. The smoke still seems like rich smoke, but I won't know until I put the Weber on. Could be oil smoke though. I hope not.