Blocking off heater hose in L series??

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Venom
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Blocking off heater hose in L series??

Post by Venom » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:26 pm

hey guys,

As the title suggest i was thinking of blocking off the heater hose to the cabin with a tap so i can cut it off in summer. I've done this to most of the old cars i've owned (EH's and Valiant) and it does do alot to cut down the heat coming into the cabin. Is there any reason i shouldn't do it to the L series?

Cheers,
Rhys
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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:56 pm

The heater core is divided from the air flow when in cold mode. There really should be no need to turn off the water.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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AlpineRaven
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Post by AlpineRaven » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:10 pm

Suparoo wrote:The heater core is divided from the air flow when in cold mode. There really should be no need to turn off the water.
Unless the valve is faulty..
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:17 pm

The way you'd have to do it is to put in two taps (or three if you really wanted to isolate the heater core) and a H piece. In between the two hoses you'd install the H piece with a tap in the middle, the other one or two taps on the heater size of the H piece.

This will effectively isolate the heater core, especially with three taps, and still allow your motor to circulate the coolant to keep the thermostat happy, stop this circualtion you''re thermostat won't open in the EJ. Only down sides are:

1) if you need your heater you have to pop the bonnet to turn the taps around to use the heater core
2) If all three taps are off, you'll have no flow at all and your thermostat won't operate properly.

I've got mine hooked up as per factory without any heat issues in the cab, unless you've got a cracked heater core - I've solved that problem for some time by replacing the heater core with an all copper one ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:23 pm

AlpineRaven wrote:Unless the valve is faulty..
What valve?

Its a mechanical flap that is controlled by a vacuum servo. The water flows through the core whether its set to hot or cold
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:33 pm

Suparoo wrote:Its a mechanical flap that is controlled by a vacuum servo. The water flows through the core whether its set to hot or cold
Close. But it is controlled by a cable through a gear set. So trivial!

There must be something wrong with this mechanism if there's heat in the cab - or something wrong with the heater core as I've mentioned already.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:47 pm

Close. But it is controlled by a cable through a gear set
Hey you are right.

Thats the 2nd time ive corrected tonight. I must be having a bad run
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Venom
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Post by Venom » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:15 am

El_Freddo wrote: This will effectively isolate the heater core, especially with three taps, and still allow your motor to circulate the coolant to keep the thermostat happy, stop this circualtion you''re thermostat won't open in the EJ.
Thats exactly what i was wondering Bennie! Thanks for the responses guys. H piece is too much effort ;).

I am thinking my headers may also tranfer alot more ambient heat through the floor than the standard setup.

Cheers,
Rhys
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tex
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Post by tex » Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:23 pm

Dynamat it then that will not only cut down on heat transfer from the firewall but also noise creating a more comfortable ride all round.
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:27 pm

You'd be surprised how much heat comes through the floor, even with the EA!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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