Retrofit a/c

Get the most out of your ride & how to make enhancements ...
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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Thu Jan 07, 2010 5:21 pm

Just found a patent for 3602005 on Free patents on line.
Description:
"Energization and deenergization of the magnetic clutch coupling an air conditioner compressor to an automobile engine is controlled automatically by a vacuum switch responsive to the vacuum level in the intake manifold"
Just to make it clear this unit was an after market switch not a Subaru part.

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:38 pm

Thank you to everybody so far for your responses to this thread. Half of the a/c gear is in (mainly engine bay side); some wiring needs to be completed and the dash put back together. Installation will be completed on Monday when the system will also be charged with refrigerant. Word is that the system has tested well and should work very effectively.

I will post back here once installation is complete. In the half-installed state the electric fan has been set up to run all the time...and the EA81 is NOT running any cooler (although it sounds very different without the crank fan). By the sounds of it the pulleys have not been lubricated as they are making a fat lot of noise!!

In other news somebody has put a ding in my car...not sure if it was the a/c people or whether it happened in the carpark at work today. I was ropeable when I noticed that!

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:33 pm

Well things are on hold at the moment...everything is installed but there is an electrical problem somewhere. The installer thinks the problem is the 6-pole relay on the drivers' side strut tower. None of the a/c gear will kick in and the blower fan will not come on.

I think that he has miswired something behind the dash but we shall see if the replacement relay works.

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:25 am

All the air conditioning gear is installed and it has tested very well. The car is visiting an auto electrician today to track down a few electrical problems. It blew a fuse this morning.

The system is not up and running yet but it will be very soon.

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:54 pm

I've already thanked dibs in another thread, but I will thank him again here for his invaluable assistance with this project. Thanks also to TOONGA, Bennie and justincase for your excellent replies and assistance in this thread. The air conditioning is installed and working - and could honestly be described as the coldest I have experienced in my entire life. It is COLD!! Like being in a freezer!

Unfortunately in getting the a/c happening electrical wise, they have stuffed up the wiring for the radiator fans. The slimline fan does not come on at all, and the big fan runs when the air conditioner is turned on. :confused: I know this was working previously...now if the black plug is plugged into the middle relay, the big fan runs at half speed and all my lights come on the dash dimly with the ignition off!! :rolleyes:

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twilightprotege
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Post by twilightprotege » Sat Jan 30, 2010 6:36 am

how much did putting gas in the system cost? did you use the new or old gas? and if it was the new gas, did they have to modify the system to accept it? and if they did, what did they modify? (sorry for all the q's)
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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Sat Jan 30, 2010 3:42 pm

I can't say how much the gas cost because my invoice is not itemised, it just describes all the work that was completed. Bennie's Brumby Sunnie got a gas service for $130 I believe. The new refrigerant was used, the only modification being to change the oil in the system to a type compatible with the new refrigerant.

Using the old oil and new refrigerant is a recipe for compressor failure as the older mineral oil is too heavy to be properly circulated by the lighter refrigerant. The guy said he has had no trouble at all with the new refrigerant and older systems - and he is VERY busy with a/c work.

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dibs
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Post by dibs » Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:06 pm

did you get the back of thr glovebox if not i will save it befor the car goes tothe scrappies
havnt had mine gassed yet prob this week as im starting 6 weeks nite work and will have a bit of daylite free. got wayne to do tunup goes gr8 now . talk later

ps nice turkey ty m8
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:22 pm

thanks phantomD just helping where I can

I got my wifes car re-gassed just recently it cost 130 dollars so it seems to be the standard price she is way happier as well when she drives it

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:36 am

dibs wrote:did you get the back of thr glovebox if not i will save it befor the car goes tothe scrappies
Yes I did thanks dibs. :)

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:50 am

I'm back again. Could somebody please describe for me in detail the operation/purpose of each of the three relays on the strut tower? I am especially interested in the purpose of the 3rd relay that connects to a previously unused connector on the vehicle harness.

I'm fairly sure I have tracked down what happens with the first two relays, but surprise me anyway.

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subybrumby
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Post by subybrumby » Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:38 pm

Just a few things in relation to this thread;

I got my daily brumby re gassed recently, $85.00. Guy in Toowoomba has a mobile business and comes to your house in does the biz here. Vacuums the system and re gasses.

Also there is a complete brumby here in Toowoomba that has been re-ended and written off. It has white mags and I also see that it has air conditioning. If anybody else wishes to install a complete system into their brumby, I can give them the details where it is. I know the previous owner but it is now in a 4x4 yard awaiting wrecking I expect.
1989 Subaru Brumby - EA82T 5speed box. 4wheel disc, electric Windows plus other goodies.
Future Plans- Seat upgrade and Possible EJ20T implant.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:17 pm

I don't know what each individual relay does. But I do know that when the AC compressor is in operation both thermos on the radiator should be in operation at the same time. These two fans should also be on when the thermo switch triggers the fans to cool the system down. I've found them to be very effective.

Sorry I don't know the individual job of each relay - I haven't needed to know this. I'm still yet to install a relay to cut the power to the AC system, we're currently turning the fan and AC switch off otherwise we get a flat battery within 4 hours. Fun fun.

Cheers

Bennie
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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:25 pm

El_Freddo wrote:I'm still yet to install a relay to cut the power to the AC system, we're currently turning the fan and AC switch off otherwise we get a flat battery within 4 hours. Fun fun.
What is different with your install that's causing this to happen? My system will turn off with the keyswitch as per normal. Is yours otherwise hooked directly into the battery or do you have a short somewhere??

My headlights go dim at idle and the dash lights pulsate with the indicator. Worse now that I have the air conditioning.

So far I've had my evaporator drain block up, cleared that and my passenger side would appear not to be flooding anymore. The other thing happening is that my car will idle too high after stopping until you rev the engine and it drops back to where it should be with the air con on. I'm not sure whether that means I just need to lubricate the idle actuator or whether there's something more sinister going on.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:24 pm

phantomD wrote:What is different with your install that's causing this to happen? My system will turn off with the keyswitch as per normal. Is yours otherwise hooked directly into the battery or do you have a short somewhere??
Sunnie's system is wired directly to the battery as I don't know where it sourced its power from in the factory setup. I originally wired it like this (fused of course) to get the twin thermo fans working when the motor temp needed them. We didn't have any problems with this before it was gassed, so I'm guessing the pressure switch has been activated thus triggering the power to the rest of the AC system...

Fun and games, I should look at the touring wagon parts car I've got out back - My brain just kicked in on that one...

Cheers

Bennie
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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:00 am

I have a leak in my a/c somewhere. It went warm within two days. :(

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:12 am

the will have put the fluro dye in to the system to find leaks take it back to the nice gentlemen who put the gas in and ask them to fix their stuff up

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:06 pm

I was half expecting this to happen, it is not their fault. I am off now to buy a UV light to see where the leak is coming from myself before I give the car to them again. It is booked in next week.

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phantomD
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Post by phantomD » Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:53 am

Well unless the leak is inside the evaporator, I can't see anything at midnight with a 100W UV light. Which means probably no leak.

So I'm thinking the flow regulating switch in the evaporator?? We'll see what the professional says. System definitely runs but there is no cold at all.

Time now to rest my sore eyes (darn UV light)...

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Mon Feb 08, 2010 5:39 pm

did you wear the groovy yellow glasses ?

please tell me you did as not only do the show the dye way better they stop the uv from damaging your eyes

TOONGA
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