What to look out for in an L series?
What to look out for in an L series?
Hi I'm new here and I'm looking at buying an L series sportswagon.
I'm keen to find out any problems / issues or other things to look out for good and bad for when i check a few out.
I'm aware that Cv wear seem to be a common issue. What do i look for?
Timing belts every 100thou on later models is essential is this also the case for the L series?
What are estimates of the service costs on these major items?
Lots of questions I guess and I probably have heaps more but I just appreciate any feeback and opinions at all really.
Cheers, Marty
I'm keen to find out any problems / issues or other things to look out for good and bad for when i check a few out.
I'm aware that Cv wear seem to be a common issue. What do i look for?
Timing belts every 100thou on later models is essential is this also the case for the L series?
What are estimates of the service costs on these major items?
Lots of questions I guess and I probably have heaps more but I just appreciate any feeback and opinions at all really.
Cheers, Marty
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Welcome your more than welcome to ask anything.
L series are good beginners car to start off, has part time 4wd whereabouts liberty has full time 4wd.
Common problems with l series is the killer rust around front bottom windscreen area, if your a panel beater that is good! CVs is normal wear for any type of CV joints cars, do a circle at full lock and listen for cluck or click and do the same otherwat around.
Kilometres - depends how well it has been looked after, Subaru is well known to have high kms. That engine is pretty gutless but if your not gonna push it then it's a good engine.
Other option is to get early liberty instead. Liberty has better panels etc and shouldn't hAve rust (I've seen rusty ones but they weren't look after well enough/lived near the coast with salt all over)
good luck with your find and keep us updated.
cheers
AP
L series are good beginners car to start off, has part time 4wd whereabouts liberty has full time 4wd.
Common problems with l series is the killer rust around front bottom windscreen area, if your a panel beater that is good! CVs is normal wear for any type of CV joints cars, do a circle at full lock and listen for cluck or click and do the same otherwat around.
Kilometres - depends how well it has been looked after, Subaru is well known to have high kms. That engine is pretty gutless but if your not gonna push it then it's a good engine.
Other option is to get early liberty instead. Liberty has better panels etc and shouldn't hAve rust (I've seen rusty ones but they weren't look after well enough/lived near the coast with salt all over)
good luck with your find and keep us updated.
cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

- justincase41
- Junior Member
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:49 pm
- Location: Brisvegas
Check for blown head gaskets....... But at the end of the day, can be fixed.
As mentioned rust around front windscreen. My L series has 500,000km on the clock, body has nil rust, engine is in great condition..... They are bullet proof!
As mentioned rust around front windscreen. My L series has 500,000km on the clock, body has nil rust, engine is in great condition..... They are bullet proof!
Current :
1992 Brumby (Future EJ20 Conversion)
2007 Toyota Prado 120
2012 Great Wall V200 (daily driver)
1997 Subaru Outback
1999 Toyota Surf (Beach Basher)
Past:
To Many to list!
1992 Brumby (Future EJ20 Conversion)
2007 Toyota Prado 120
2012 Great Wall V200 (daily driver)
1997 Subaru Outback
1999 Toyota Surf (Beach Basher)
Past:
To Many to list!
- RSR 555
- Elder Member
- Posts: 6951
- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
- Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham
Pretty much like people have said.. Rust around the front screen but also look for rust on the front chassis rail. I see many L's now with rust start in the rails and this is obviously like the windscreen, a structual part of the car and wouldn't pass licence inspections if ever needed.
Must say it's one of the most fun cars I've used for 4WDing and fishing... Good luck with your purchase
Must say it's one of the most fun cars I've used for 4WDing and fishing... Good luck with your purchase

You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.
RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
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Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals
RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals
Thanks everyone. I will check for the rust in the above mentioned areas and check the cv's etc.
So do the timimng belts have to be changed with these every 100K too? If so I assume thats a $1000 like it is for forester etc.
Speaking of Forester that is what I initially started looking for and have test drove a few. The non turbo is quite gutless and I don't expect anything worse from the L series in trems of power to weight. The GT is obviously very nice to drive but I'm sure they have there own issues in terms of potential abuse and service needs. I'm trying to stay under $10K and so if I can find a good L series I'm going to save quite a few dollars for other things.
The early liberties is something that I haven't considered. I'm sure they are a great car an all, but to be honest they look pretty ordinary. Personal choice i guess. I should be open to all suggestions though and I'm happy to listen to suggestions for a manual all wheel drive wagon that can handle off the bitumen when required.
Cheers, Marty
So do the timimng belts have to be changed with these every 100K too? If so I assume thats a $1000 like it is for forester etc.
Speaking of Forester that is what I initially started looking for and have test drove a few. The non turbo is quite gutless and I don't expect anything worse from the L series in trems of power to weight. The GT is obviously very nice to drive but I'm sure they have there own issues in terms of potential abuse and service needs. I'm trying to stay under $10K and so if I can find a good L series I'm going to save quite a few dollars for other things.
The early liberties is something that I haven't considered. I'm sure they are a great car an all, but to be honest they look pretty ordinary. Personal choice i guess. I should be open to all suggestions though and I'm happy to listen to suggestions for a manual all wheel drive wagon that can handle off the bitumen when required.
Cheers, Marty
standard L series will be significantly more gutless than forester. have you driven one? Timing belts should be done before 100k to safe, but wont stuff your engine if they break. most home mechanics armed with a service manual find it an easy job. Noisy hydraulic lifters (tappets) is common, the sound will drive you bannanas
L series wagon EA82T (RIP)
'92 Liberty RS Turbo
GU Patrol Ute
Honda XR400R
'92 Liberty RS Turbo
GU Patrol Ute
Honda XR400R
a ej20 n/a forester is gutless, you are correct there.
i had a L wagon which was fine in standard form, but as soon as you go to bigger wheels..... forget about it. forever dropping down gears for small hills on the freeway to try hold the speed limit.
i then put a ej22 and its matching awd box into the L and it totally transformed it. faster than my forester? yes, but the forester is legal and has bigger (or the same) size wheels as my previous L.
L =
ej22'd L =
ej20 n/a forester =
i love my forester, don't get me wrong it is a great car with so many features and is more modern compaired to the L. it isn't as fast/strong as a modded L, but its a better car for day to day driving.
my L was so so so so fun to drive but i was always worried about copping a defect, of course engineering can be done but thats just more money.
forgot what the whole reason for this thread was.....
i had a L wagon which was fine in standard form, but as soon as you go to bigger wheels..... forget about it. forever dropping down gears for small hills on the freeway to try hold the speed limit.
i then put a ej22 and its matching awd box into the L and it totally transformed it. faster than my forester? yes, but the forester is legal and has bigger (or the same) size wheels as my previous L.
L =

ej22'd L =

ej20 n/a forester =

i love my forester, don't get me wrong it is a great car with so many features and is more modern compaired to the L. it isn't as fast/strong as a modded L, but its a better car for day to day driving.
my L was so so so so fun to drive but i was always worried about copping a defect, of course engineering can be done but thats just more money.
forgot what the whole reason for this thread was.....

- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Timing belt - They are 100,000kms, I normally change them on exact 100,000kms, but if you're a low km per year driver then its less - I dont know what the year/months that needs replacing, I think something like 48 months?¿ cant remember.
Timing Service - if you're mechanically minded - you can do it yourself, the recent 300,000km service was minor service and I paid $480 all up including bearings, water pump, belts, seals, sparkplugs, oil, filters etc etc. That was for 1996 Subaru Liberty.
Cheers
AP
Timing Service - if you're mechanically minded - you can do it yourself, the recent 300,000km service was minor service and I paid $480 all up including bearings, water pump, belts, seals, sparkplugs, oil, filters etc etc. That was for 1996 Subaru Liberty.
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

also check the bushes and just about every suspension component
got mine with a blown head gasket threw another motor in it.
then found full rear suspension needed to be done, bushes, rear cvs(think) shocks.
got mine with a blown head gasket threw another motor in it.
then found full rear suspension needed to be done, bushes, rear cvs(think) shocks.
if im needed for anything [email protected] and ill try and get back to you.
pickstock racing fabrication
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GETDIRTYCLOTHING
track day classics and customs
pickstock racing fabrication
pickstock racing photography
GETDIRTYCLOTHING
track day classics and customs
Go an MY, no timing belts to worry about 
If you really want an L-series, pick up one with a good body and then put an engineered low-km EJ20 into it with the EA82 5-speed box - best of both worlds, decent power in a light car. Good fuel economy, reliable, doesn't look like a blob on wheels. Will be way under your budget but you won't get the money back if you sell it.
Dean.

If you really want an L-series, pick up one with a good body and then put an engineered low-km EJ20 into it with the EA82 5-speed box - best of both worlds, decent power in a light car. Good fuel economy, reliable, doesn't look like a blob on wheels. Will be way under your budget but you won't get the money back if you sell it.
Dean.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.