Welding EA81 Blocks

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 11:51 am

Does anyone know if you can weld a EA81 block? Does the alloy contain any lead?

As my latest problem with the Ute is 2 cracks beside the thread for the oil pressure switch, which need to be welded up. The ute is really giving me the s%^*'s with all the random stuff that keeps happening it! But thats another story.

rubisubi · Post by **rubisubi** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:08 pm

Welcome to my world

justincase41 · Post by **justincase41** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:50 pm

Any pics of the cracks?

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:27 pm

Yeah i have pics just been to lazy to put them up.

As i went to be on holidays...

Shot with u1050SW,S1050SW at 2009-12-17

justincase41 · Post by **justincase41** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:44 pm

Crickey, thats a decent crack as well!

tex · Post by **tex** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:49 pm

Welding cast metals is a specialist job but if its too much work to use a different block your not going to lose anything by letting them try!

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:34 pm

Unfortunately i have spent a little bit of money on this block and would like to keep it. (About 12 months ago, new mains, 1mm oversize pistons, rings, rebore / rehone, machined, etc)
With the wonders of Quick Steel i have managed to slow the leak down enough / stop the leak enough to drive it short term, i am guessing a month hopefully to get the block out and to a specialist hopefully. (and i will carry spare oil in the mean time) I may even have a play myself yet with some aluminium brazing / Soldering rods i have at home when i get home from my holiday. As i don't have much to lose. As i have a spare block at home.

Also the crack looks way bigger in the photo, it would be under 0.5mm at it widest.

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 6:19 pm

if u want to weld it up u need to tig it
first u need to clean it up as so there is no oil there .
cut the crack out and clean it up but cut out more them the crack so the u have got clean metal to weld too and build it all back
then preheat it to about 450c so that u burn all of the oil out .
wire brush it when it is hot and tig weld it up when it is hot and it will fix it .
try not let it cool down to much when u are welding it up .
that how i weld up this stuff as if u do not remove the oil in will leak the some ?

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 6:51 pm

Sounds like i was going to do Phill but unfortunately i don't have a TIG, it is on my wish list with a Lathe and Mill... LOL However i will be giving this fancy Brazing / soldering rods a go with the oxy so heat should be no drama, and cleaness is the only rule of soldering! LOL!

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:37 am

the best way i find to clean is used a "5" grinder with a wire brash on it'

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:23 pm

I was thinking a little bit harsher with a flapper disc but i will see how it goes when i get home.

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 2:48 pm

as all want to do is clean it .
if u flapper disc it u are just pushing the dirt into the thing and not removing it

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:55 am

Subaru uses a blend of 5 to 10% magnesium in their casting to help slow corrosion. You can actually see little sparks of it burning if you put a flame on it. So, not sure if that would make it hard to braze...

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:04 am

So keep an extinguisher handy then... This sounds like it is going to be fun job... LOL

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:07 am

So obviously you are going to try on a useless test piece first? lol

I tried welding a head with a mig and gas, no luck as I couldn't pre-heat it enough first...

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:06 pm

This is what i was going to play around with on it. It will be interesting to see how it goes.

http://www.ultrabond.8m.com/

http://www.ultrabond.8m.com/custom.html

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 6:02 pm

Interesting.. Looks like a good tool to use for the DIY cheap guy.

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:25 pm

just get a friend in the engine reco works, they tig them after heating. they have a cinder block style oven with bbq burners to heat the alloy befor welding.

tony · Post by **tony** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 3:32 am

use stainless steel brush as ordinary wire brush will leave residue which will make it hard to weld and will still leak. don't use anything like sandpaper/glasspaper it leaves residue. cleanliness is absolutely essential, clean every few mm.

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:17 pm

shuffbag wrote:just get a friend in the engine reco works, they tig them after heating. they have a cinder block style oven with bbq burners to heat the alloy befor welding.

The problem with that I see is you would have to rip the whole thing down and clean it. I think his hoping to weld it with the engine intact.