I put a weber carbie on my brumby on saturday - it was a nice straight forward swap over.
started it up and it purred beutifully - the best my brumby has run since i got it. let it warm up to tune a flat spot out of the carbie - revved it a couple of times (not over revving) and noticed a lot of oil coming off the fan.
it seems that an oil seal behind the pulley next to the fan (on the passenger side) has gone as that is where the oil seems to be coming from - it is leaking quite a lot of oil but other than that it runs fine. car has 284000k on it so its only expected that things will be wearing out i suppose.
can any one tell me if there is definitely a seal in there that is probably the cause of the leak (its quite bad - i won't be driving the car anywhere) and what is invovled in fixing it - does the engine have to come out or can it be done from outside the motor?
how much would you expect a mechanic to charge to fix it as the car is at my parents farm where i swapping the carbie over - about 100km from home so a bit inconvenient to try and fix it after work one night during the week etc.
any help most appreciated.
cheers,
trev.
Oil Seal Gone? How to replace
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El_Freddo
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It'd either be the crankshaft seal or the oil pump just under the crankshaft. Both can be replaced/changed/fixed with the engine in. The fans will need to be removed to get to the crank pulley to get it off so you can gain access to the seal and the oil pump.
With the oil pump, pull it all a part, there will be two screws that seperates the oil pump into two plates, you'll need to replace the seal between these two parts or you may still have a leak. Make sure you clean down all mating surfaces for best results.
For the crankshaft seal, pry it out with a screwdriver, don't worry if you destroy it in the process, just make sure all bits of the old seal arn't left behind. Tap the new seal in gently trying not to change its shape, just trying to get it in slowly and evenly.
Doing both of these should see a result that you're after - no oil spraying around your engine bay.
Also look around that general area to make sure its not coming from a plug with a hex shaped key slot, if it is, remove this plug, clean the surface, add some sealant and re-seal the plug. I'm not sure what the torque setting should be but someone will know
Cheers
Bennie
With the oil pump, pull it all a part, there will be two screws that seperates the oil pump into two plates, you'll need to replace the seal between these two parts or you may still have a leak. Make sure you clean down all mating surfaces for best results.
For the crankshaft seal, pry it out with a screwdriver, don't worry if you destroy it in the process, just make sure all bits of the old seal arn't left behind. Tap the new seal in gently trying not to change its shape, just trying to get it in slowly and evenly.
Doing both of these should see a result that you're after - no oil spraying around your engine bay.
Also look around that general area to make sure its not coming from a plug with a hex shaped key slot, if it is, remove this plug, clean the surface, add some sealant and re-seal the plug. I'm not sure what the torque setting should be but someone will know
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks El Freddo. It was the crankshaft seal.
Had a go at this on the weekend and got it done in a couple of hours. I had to remove the radiator to get clear access to the bolt that holds the pulley on (it was a tough one to crack! used everything from rp7 to a rattle gun to a really long pipe over a crack bar and it still wouldn't budge - then hit the crack bar with a rubber mallot and it gave way - wish i tried that first!)
Having the radiator out I was able to use a pulley puller - i don't think I would have been able to get the pulley off without it as everything was so tight. All back together now and car is running well : )
So for $18 in parts is was worth waiting a week to be able to get to it rather than putting it in the local mechanics and paying a fortune in labour.
Thank you.
Had a go at this on the weekend and got it done in a couple of hours. I had to remove the radiator to get clear access to the bolt that holds the pulley on (it was a tough one to crack! used everything from rp7 to a rattle gun to a really long pipe over a crack bar and it still wouldn't budge - then hit the crack bar with a rubber mallot and it gave way - wish i tried that first!)
Having the radiator out I was able to use a pulley puller - i don't think I would have been able to get the pulley off without it as everything was so tight. All back together now and car is running well : )
So for $18 in parts is was worth waiting a week to be able to get to it rather than putting it in the local mechanics and paying a fortune in labour.
Thank you.
Better way to remove pulley
Greetings,
A safer way to undo the nut is to remove the rubber cover that allows access to the timing marks on the back of the flywheel. In the back of the flywheel you will notice some holes about 6 mm in size place a snug fitting rod or screw driver in one of these holes, it will rest against the side of the opening allowing the nut to be undone with a socket or spanner.
Hope this helps.
cheers, Bushby.
A safer way to undo the nut is to remove the rubber cover that allows access to the timing marks on the back of the flywheel. In the back of the flywheel you will notice some holes about 6 mm in size place a snug fitting rod or screw driver in one of these holes, it will rest against the side of the opening allowing the nut to be undone with a socket or spanner.
Hope this helps.
cheers, Bushby.