ive been looking inot building the EA82 as most of you know and yeah the plan was to do it all myself which i might still do. but ive also found a few suppliers of custom pistons and rods and the like so instead of paying huge amounts to have immense internals in an EA82 i was thinking about buying the internas for a EJ motors and waiting till i can get a block.
so my questions are
who has the specs for the ej20, ej22, ej22t motors?? and what are they
by specs i dont mean power output i mean bore, stroke, rods, cams that sort of gear.
my second question is if i get these parts in (mostly custom made from england or america) would anyone be interested in a well built almost race motor
EJ20/EJ22 specs
What are you aiming for? Forced induction? The weak point in EJ20/22s is the open deck, and all the forged internals in the world aren't going to fix that. And on some of the other forums, the consensus seems to be that the stock internals are good enough if you're not going for really high boost and mega horsepower.
Anyhow, specs:
EJ20 92.0mm bore x 75.0mm stroke
EJ22 96.9mm bore x 75.0mm stroke
There are some standard cam specs here, original source unknown: showpost.php?p=129170&postcount=7
Some dimensions for bigs and smalls cam be found in the ACL bearings catalogue, and possibly the Nason engine parts book too. I can't find these online, but any parts shop should have a copy.
The performance shops like Tony Rigoli and MRT might be worth a look too.
Dane.
Anyhow, specs:
EJ20 92.0mm bore x 75.0mm stroke
EJ22 96.9mm bore x 75.0mm stroke
There are some standard cam specs here, original source unknown: showpost.php?p=129170&postcount=7
Some dimensions for bigs and smalls cam be found in the ACL bearings catalogue, and possibly the Nason engine parts book too. I can't find these online, but any parts shop should have a copy.
The performance shops like Tony Rigoli and MRT might be worth a look too.
Dane.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project
1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project
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discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
From a bottom end perspective I don't think EA82's or EJ's are underengineered . Forged pistons are nice if expensive but you have to ask yourself if they are really needed .
A really serious race engine does but if you look after your engines and tune them properly you'd be surprised how far you can get with factory pistons .
EA engines struggle for breathing so it's hard to imagine super power from one , their pistons don't get a bad time unless you overheat them or detonate them . Detonation kills forged pistons just as effectively as cast ones too . Half of the advantage of custom pistons is a non standard crown form and compression ratio changes .
EA rods are not weak and come from an era where durability ment something in manufacturing . Same generally with the cranks , EA's look pretty hardy for most tasks .
Most people building an expensive engine like to get it done themselves so they know exactly whats going into it and who machined and assembled it .
You can't tell which bearings etc are there after assembly and you can't see what the oil pump/bores/water pump etc looked like . It wouldn't be the first time some dodgy sold a "full house engine mate , forgies steel rods oversized valves hot cams" and it was a shoddy build with std bits . Without gutting it you can't tell .
In most production engines the easiest and cheapest roads to power is the largest practicle capacity and heads etc that breathe . A 2.5 with good heads makes better power than a 2.0 with bling bits and std heads .
Strong internals are great if you plan to run high revs all the time but who does on the street ? The whole idea is to make TORQUE and street turbo engines can make lots without turning high revs .
The other tip is making the heads/manifolds etc breathe well and you don't need stupidly high boost pressure to make oodles of torque . Remember , boost pressure is merely a measure of resistance to airflow through an engine so if you can remove some of the restrictioins you don't need as much boost pressure to get the same air throughput . With the same flow (at lower boost pressure) suddenly the turbo doesn't put as much heat into the air it pumps and the fuel rail pressure isn't as high either - meaning less work and loss of volume flow out of your fuel pump . Suddenly lots of boring mundane looking bits from a bigger engine in the range do the job/look std/cost less .
Yeah I know , another epic but .....
A really serious race engine does but if you look after your engines and tune them properly you'd be surprised how far you can get with factory pistons .
EA engines struggle for breathing so it's hard to imagine super power from one , their pistons don't get a bad time unless you overheat them or detonate them . Detonation kills forged pistons just as effectively as cast ones too . Half of the advantage of custom pistons is a non standard crown form and compression ratio changes .
EA rods are not weak and come from an era where durability ment something in manufacturing . Same generally with the cranks , EA's look pretty hardy for most tasks .
Most people building an expensive engine like to get it done themselves so they know exactly whats going into it and who machined and assembled it .
You can't tell which bearings etc are there after assembly and you can't see what the oil pump/bores/water pump etc looked like . It wouldn't be the first time some dodgy sold a "full house engine mate , forgies steel rods oversized valves hot cams" and it was a shoddy build with std bits . Without gutting it you can't tell .
In most production engines the easiest and cheapest roads to power is the largest practicle capacity and heads etc that breathe . A 2.5 with good heads makes better power than a 2.0 with bling bits and std heads .
Strong internals are great if you plan to run high revs all the time but who does on the street ? The whole idea is to make TORQUE and street turbo engines can make lots without turning high revs .
The other tip is making the heads/manifolds etc breathe well and you don't need stupidly high boost pressure to make oodles of torque . Remember , boost pressure is merely a measure of resistance to airflow through an engine so if you can remove some of the restrictioins you don't need as much boost pressure to get the same air throughput . With the same flow (at lower boost pressure) suddenly the turbo doesn't put as much heat into the air it pumps and the fuel rail pressure isn't as high either - meaning less work and loss of volume flow out of your fuel pump . Suddenly lots of boring mundane looking bits from a bigger engine in the range do the job/look std/cost less .
Yeah I know , another epic but .....
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Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
I have seen on other forums that the strongest factory block is the US EJ22T, the second strongest being early EJ20T from the Gen1 Liberty RS. But unfortunately the heads arent all that crash hot. So get a set of later 98+ WRX heads (or even better, STI ones) and you should have a pretty hot motor
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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