Some questions on Removing engine

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:56 pm

just preparing my checklist of what needs to be done to
remove engine from OBW.
0) remove bonnet
1) release fuel pressure
a) disconnect fuel pump. Connector under rear back seat.
b) start engine and run till it stops
2) disconnet fuel hoses to engine
3) remove coolant
4) remove radiator
5) disconnect heater hoses
6) disconnect brake booster vacuum hose
7) remove air filter assemblies

remove V belt
9) remove battery
10) disconnect alternator and remove
11) disconnect electrical connectors
12) detach air compressor
13) detach accelerator and cruise control cable
14) remove power steering pump from bracket
15)Remove pipe with bracket.
16) Remove bolts which install power steering
pump bracket.
17)Remove bolts to header pipes.
b) remove bracket holding header pipes rear of engine
c) unbolt from center exhaust pipe.
18)Remove nuts which hold lower side of transmission
to engine.
19)Remove nuts which install front cushion rubber
onto front crossmember.
20)Remove pitching stopper.
21)jack under transmission
22)remove bolts which hold transmission to engine
23)remove starter
24)lift engine

writing a list like this sure makes it look like a lot of work.
Anyway heres the main reason posting this topic.

The Subaru manual has in the remove procedure to "collect the refrigerant"
in removal of AC. Now I been looking at it for a bit, and I reckon the compressor could simply be detached and placed to where the battery
sits, am I right or missing something ?

The manual also seems to stress support the transmission with a jack. I mean at all times? there is a cross bar to support the transmission isn't there? I mean is it not sufficient in the OBW ? the reason I ask is that I
will need to push the vehicle minus the engine to another location for a while......

oh if you have corrections or added tips,advice to the list above please yell out.

Is it a good idea to get new exhaust bolts ?
exhaust bolts aren't Subaru specific are they? should be able to get some
from the exhaust shop cheaper and no need to order huh?

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:17 pm

remove the battery first when u start

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:17 pm

Yes, moving the air con compressor aside without disconnecting is fine as long as there's room to put it down.

PS pump and its brackets can stay on the engine. Just disconnect the hoses from the pump.

Exhaust can stay on the car, just undo the header pipe from the engine. Likewise, intake bits can stay on the car, just pull everything off the engine. Take note of where all the breather lines go.

In my experience, jacking up the transmission makes the job easier because it keeps the gearbox input shaft pointed in the same general direction you'll be pulling the engine

Which exhaust bolts are you talking about? Replace if they look bad, they don't need to be genuine.

I'd also drop the oil before lifting the engine.

Dane.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:49 pm

Somewhere after remove radiator and before remove battery I have written on my battery "undo crank pulley bolt"

I have a length of square steel tube 25mm that fits on top and between strut towers. It has a bit of threaded rod, a rod nut, fitted through a hole in the centre, this all hooks up to hold transbox in place, requiring one less jack underneath

Degrease and pressure wash from top of bonnet down first!

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:50 pm

Thanks for your replies!
I did mean header not exhaust.

steptoe wrote: I have a length of square steel tube 25mm that fits on top and between strut towers. It has a bit of threaded rod, a rod nut, fitted through a hole in the centre, this all hooks up to hold transbox in place, requiring one less jack underneath

so I do have to worry about it, this sounds like a excellent concept..
hmm more things to get a hold of.

I can drop the oil when on engine stand.....

that may be a good idea to loosen the crank bolt, even though I don't really need to for what I'm doing (replacing rocker cover gaskets, and theres a broken bolt to deal with)

but maybe I should replace some oil seals, I can think of the CAM seals (not leaking but they would be old)

hmm, whatelse useful should I think of doing? engine done 235kKm

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:05 pm

*watches with interest...*

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:39 pm

I normally unbolt and move th P/s pump to the side like with the aircon comp. I find it easier as i don't loose any oil/fluid. Its only three bolts. Also If OBW is a Subaru( L series or Gen1Liberty, And maybe other subies), You should not have to remove the bonnet.
If you look where the metal rod goes in the bonnet theres a smaller hole to the right. What you do is remove the rod from its place on the radiator support behind the headlight and place it in a hole next to the drive top strut housing, There is another hole in a ridge. Its allows the bonnet to open fully nearly to 90 degs and is held by the rod. I amazed and think that there is quite a number of suby ppl that don't know this. I'm pretty sure its been made and design for that purpose only.
I'll take some pics in the day light to show what i mean.

Also like God said it better to raise the Gbox either with a jack under it or a bar on top that holds it. Makes it easier to remove and put back in.

Those are two of my tricks when removing EJ22's :P

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:55 pm

guyph_01 wrote:I normally unbolt and move th P/s pump to the side like with the aircon comp. I find it easier as i don't loose any oil/fluid. Its only three bolts. Also If OBW is a Subaru( L series or Gen1Liberty, And maybe other subies), You should not have to remove the bonnet.
If you look where the metal rod goes in the bonnet theres a smaller hole to the right. What you do is remove the rod from its place on the radiator support behind the headlight and place it in a hole next to the drive top strut housing, There is another hole in a ridge. Its allows the bonnet to open fully nearly to 90 degs and is held by the rod. I amazed and think that there is quite a number of suby ppl that don't know this. I'm pretty sure its been made and design for that purpose only.
I'll take some pics in the day light to show what i mean.

Also like God said it better to raise the Gbox either with a jack under it or a bar on top that holds it. Makes it easier to remove and put back in.

Those are two of my tricks when removing EJ22's :P

Or you can get a bit of rope and tie the bonnet off to roof racks or a B pillar. That keeps the strut out of the way too.

Dane.

wrxer · Post by **wrxer** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:36 am

at step 18, remove nuts from gbox to motor, i remove studs from motor, you can leave studs in hole tho, easier to remove motor and heaps easier to replace

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:20 am

between 0 and 1 I would have put disconnect battery but thats just me

TOONGA

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:13 pm

TOONGA wrote:between 0 and 1 I would have put disconnect battery but thats just me

TOONGA

you need the battery to assist in releasing fuel pressure. first post edited.

Most troublesome parts.

bolt behind the AC compressor. 3/8" socket toolset does reach in though, still extremely annoying.

The driver side (RHS ?) lower transmission bolt, very hard to reach in.

Mating the engine back up to the transmission. Fixed position hoist and need to push car, OBW is much much harder to push than the old L series!