difference between rear shafts on l and my
difference between rear shafts on l and my
as title states, is there a difference in length between l series and brumbys with rear driveshafts. are they the same at outboard ends and inboard ends.
was thinking if i have used l series lowers and shafts on front of my brumby, then front track is wider than rear. can i use the l series rear shafts and relocate rear arms wider out to widen rear track.
i was going to relocate rears lower anyway to give a bit of neg camber
was thinking if i have used l series lowers and shafts on front of my brumby, then front track is wider than rear. can i use the l series rear shafts and relocate rear arms wider out to widen rear track.
i was going to relocate rears lower anyway to give a bit of neg camber
- brumbyrunner
- General Member
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:00 am
- Location: SEQ
L series are longer than MY.
Early L series had DOJs both ends, later models changed to CV outer.
Wider front track is no cause for concern with regards to handling.
Widening the rear track on an MY without offset rims or rim spacers is a fairly major engineering task.
You'll gain negative camber if you reduce the torsion bar preload.
Early L series had DOJs both ends, later models changed to CV outer.
Wider front track is no cause for concern with regards to handling.
Widening the rear track on an MY without offset rims or rim spacers is a fairly major engineering task.
You'll gain negative camber if you reduce the torsion bar preload.
Settlement Creek Racing
thanks brumbyrunner, your ute is inspiring to me.
and i understand that lowering rear will give neg camber, now that youve said it and i had a look. with those rims i cant change offset to give rear same track as front, i cant use spacers and get over the pits. i reckon use the crossbred conversion for the rear (for 5 studs) and l series rear shafts, and reposition the trailing arm mounts outwards to suit, swap torsion plate to other side of bracket on arm, and use spacer if required. is there any advantage raising or lowering rear trailing arms mounts, perhaps for antisquat or something?
i think raising or lowering mounts will only affect neg camber at selected height, and may cause bind in rear suspension.
any thoughts?
and i understand that lowering rear will give neg camber, now that youve said it and i had a look. with those rims i cant change offset to give rear same track as front, i cant use spacers and get over the pits. i reckon use the crossbred conversion for the rear (for 5 studs) and l series rear shafts, and reposition the trailing arm mounts outwards to suit, swap torsion plate to other side of bracket on arm, and use spacer if required. is there any advantage raising or lowering rear trailing arms mounts, perhaps for antisquat or something?
i think raising or lowering mounts will only affect neg camber at selected height, and may cause bind in rear suspension.
any thoughts?
found brumbyrunners old post:
There are 2 types of L series rear shafts.
The early ones had 23 spline outside x 22 spline inside DOJs on both ends, the same as MY but, as Phizinza said, are about 30mm longer and cannot be interchanged.
Later L's changed to an outer CV and this continued through to the Liberty.
i have: my99 diff, abs rear shafts and abs rear hubs
so can i use my99 rear diff and inner joint, with l series shafts and dunno what as outers, but i want 5 studs(not game to mention i want abs too)
or do i use all lseries rear shaft and cut circlip ring.
is a lot of work for 30mm extra track.
thanks in advance
There are 2 types of L series rear shafts.
The early ones had 23 spline outside x 22 spline inside DOJs on both ends, the same as MY but, as Phizinza said, are about 30mm longer and cannot be interchanged.
Later L's changed to an outer CV and this continued through to the Liberty.
i have: my99 diff, abs rear shafts and abs rear hubs
so can i use my99 rear diff and inner joint, with l series shafts and dunno what as outers, but i want 5 studs(not game to mention i want abs too)
or do i use all lseries rear shaft and cut circlip ring.
is a lot of work for 30mm extra track.
thanks in advance
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Your calls I suppose but I wouldn't have thought a Brumby would be tail endy as in over steering . Everyone reckons that MY's and Brumbys have even more diabolical front suspension geometry than L's do so being typically understeering I'd attack the front geometry first .
One of the first things I did to my RX L series was to have larger diameter anti roll bars made and fitted and that made a big difference to it , the less they roll the less idiotic the geometry gets .
I can't praise the twits who designed the semi trailing arms location points on L's and MY's , the two pivots where the bushes are , aren't even on the same axis so the bushings deform out of shape as the arms rise and fall - really brain dead stuff ...
Datsun 1600s with semi trailing arm IRS from 1968 wern't like this ...
A .
One of the first things I did to my RX L series was to have larger diameter anti roll bars made and fitted and that made a big difference to it , the less they roll the less idiotic the geometry gets .
I can't praise the twits who designed the semi trailing arms location points on L's and MY's , the two pivots where the bushes are , aren't even on the same axis so the bushings deform out of shape as the arms rise and fall - really brain dead stuff ...
Datsun 1600s with semi trailing arm IRS from 1968 wern't like this ...
A .
- brumbyrunner
- General Member
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:00 am
- Location: SEQ
You would have to plan on moving the trailing arm mounts outwards about 30mm and that's a big spacer. You may want to consider grafting an L series rear trailing arm mounting tube (or crossmember, whatever it's called) onto the Brumby body mounts. This would basically give you a complete L series rear end including coilovers instead of torsion bar. Not a 5 minute job though. With regards to anti-squat, I wouldn't like to pretend I could offer you advice on the instant centre or roll-axis etc without first determining ride height.wrxer wrote:...i reckon use the crossbred conversion for the rear (for 5 studs) and l series rear shafts, and reposition the trailing arm mounts outwards to suit, swap torsion plate to other side of bracket on arm, and use spacer if required. is there any advantage raising or lowering rear trailing arms mounts, perhaps for antisquat or something?
i think raising or lowering mounts will only affect neg camber at selected height, and may cause bind in rear suspension.
any thoughts?
I don't know what spline your Liberty rear shafts are. The safest way is to pull them apart and check. If they're 22 spline then the MY or L series axle could be swapped in and you could use your Liberty diff and inner joint.wrxer wrote:...i have: my99 diff, abs rear shafts and abs rear hubs
so can i use my99 rear diff and inner joint, with l series shafts and dunno what as outers, but i want 5 studs(not game to mention i want abs too)
or do i use all lseries rear shaft and cut circlip ring.
is a lot of work for 30mm extra track.
thanks in advance
Settlement Creek Racing