Wrong time, wrong place - cooling, leads and engine problems

[ScubyRoo]

After an extremely epic rafting trip, my trusty '92 Lib GX gave me the first trouble I've had in 2 years, a long 6 hour drive from the NSW/VIC mountains back to frankston.

a slow rise of the temperature needle signaled something was up as its never budged passed middle. Popped the hood and found that the engine to radiator main hose was steaming with a small split opened up. Duct tape sealed it up well and topped the radiator up with water.

10 minutes later car loses power and knocking sound from engine before whole engine stalls at 60kmph. Pull over and pop the hood, only a little smoke with very little smell. Check the spark plugs - yup, leads on 4 and 2 plugs have popped off. Strange, I think, as i've never heard of something like this happening. Shove em back on and make sure they've sealed on well.

A few hours later after the car was parked it refused to start again. I figured dead battery, so we jumped it and drove a few hours (we were returning from a rafting trip), with the car turned off and started a few times without any troubles. 100km later the duct tape gives up the ghost and the hole sends steam, coolant and water spraying. Tried another duct tape job, added more water but it only lasted a few kms before over heating again.

Replaced the hose at a subaru dealer in Seymore and had it checked by them - 'yep, all good now'. Temp gauge was steady middle. 20kms out of Seymore toward melbourne and the needle heads back up again - bugger. Waited for the engine to cool and put about 3 litres of water through the radiator, guessing there was a decent sized airblock in there somewhere. Did the cool, fill, run process several times. Had to push start on the last time it overheated to restart.

Spark plugs popped 2 more times, always accompanied with overheating.

Called RACV, he came and did the same thing we did. Car refused to start again, not a single tick. RACV said alternator is dead. Jump started by RACV, air settled out of radiator and temp guage stayed steady, so he sent us on our way. 10kms later we're on the side of the road again, over heated, dead battery and 2 spark leads popped (at the engine end). Called the flatbed and the car is now sitting in my girlfriends drive way waiting to get back to frankston.

There has been a slowing leaking of transmission oil over the last few weeks, engine oil is steady, not loosing power steering fluid. Small amount of white residue on inside of oil cap. Vapour in exhaust fumes. Scum on radiator cap and around opening. Radiator is OEM installed feb last year with coolant that was supposed to last 2 years before being replaced by the radiator service centre. Left inner-CV boot replaced last week.


Any ideas as to what the damage might be?

I'm in a shocking state as I just forked out for the body lift a few days ago and have just accumulated everything but OB trailing arm mounts and have a very empty bank balance. I'm a povo uni student and pretty much spent most of what i've saved up on the mods sitting in the garage atm.

I'm not very happy with my mechanic as I asked him to look into the leak when the CV boot was replaced and nothing was picked up. Does anyone know of a mechanic in the frankston area they've had good dealings with?

Is there anyone with the knowledge that would be willing to help me DIY? I can pay for your time with limited cash or slabs of your preferred beverage and many grateful thanks.

Thanks for any advice or possible help!

Owen, the very disappointed and impoverished subaru owner.

[tony]

I had an almost identical experience in my L series. for a few months after I had to check the water every day, then it finally overheated and stopped.
Got the motor out, one melted hole in piston, one cracked head.
Amazing how these splits in hoses are always on the bottom so you can't easily spot them.
Suggest you take action now before you get stuck somewhere 300 k from home, like I did, had to get tow 100 k to friends place, and still 200 k from home, (RAC paid for tow but not to home).
I was going to wreck mine out but due to finances am going to now rebuild, cheaper than buying another car I don't know the history of, also want to stay old school carby etc, hate electronics.so looking for ea82 motor to get some bits off.
As a side issue, I have been told that when an ally motor overheats the metal is softened and cannot be relied on for tightening bolts in etc, which sounds like bull dust to me, even ally takes 800 degrees to melt and the motor would have no chance of getting that hot, BUT can anyone advise if this is a fact or not?

thanks

[yarney]

Bugger but it is a blown head casket with white in the oil cap and scum in the rad.
It would be cheaper if you bought a 2nd hand engine and swapped it over, It would only take a day to do and there not that dear to bye.

Jan

[AlpineRaven]

Bugger but it is a blown head casket with white in the oil cap and scum in the rad.
It would be cheaper if you bought a 2nd hand engine and swapped it over, It would only take a day to do and there not that dear to bye.

Jan

bugger mate... thats not good news... could be a bad air pocket in the engine somewhere and possibly blown headgasket, ah um... i would get it checked, run the engine again and check if there is bubbles in the reservoir/radiator while its open, indicates blown headgasket or water in oil where you could see "milky chocolate" deposits on the dipstick. if its the headgasket - you could remove the heads and inspect them and get the heads checked by professional and get new headgasket, if the heads are warped/cracked will require attention, otherwise grab 2nd hand from wreckers. I know I've been naughty in the past is just replace the headgasket and put heads back on after blown headgasket (wasnt subaru) and same with another car with cracked heads and got a wrecker's heads fitted and was fine...
Cheers
AP

[libertarian]

Its a bummer when it starts overheating like that.
Mine kept overheating on the highway after half an hour and after 3 different mechanics,new radiator,hoses,thermostat and coolant still had same problem.
I bypassed the heater block and has never gotten hot again.
Sounds to me though like your head gasket is gone with the oil contamination that you speak of and like the others suggested it might be cheaper to find a s/h engine as they are cheap enough.

[ScubyRoo]

Attempted to fill radiator this morning but big ol' leak above thermostat and behind belts - I'm guessing waterpump is busted and/or its gaskets are blown? Anything else in that area that could be the culprit?

The car isn't drivable at the moment so am trying to organise a mobile mechanic to come and pressure test the system to check for the leak and see where that bloody air block is...

[El_Freddo]

Owen, I wouldn't bother with the mobile mechanic, all he'll do is take your money without you learning anything more about the condition of your EJ... I'm putting my bets on a blown head gasket due to a dodgy water pump.

I've just had my EJ donor motor up to temp and have found water coming from behind the cam belt cover where the water pump is and from under and behind the engine - think there's a coolant plug hidden behind one of the engine mounts. I'm not worried about the work that needs to be done as its sitting on the shed floor and not in the car.

Pick a part should score you a decent EJ for about $250 - I know its a lot of money when you're a povo student thats just spent all your money on mods (particularly when you've saved to get the mods). I was there a week and a half ago to pull a gearbox, I left a perfectly good EJ22 sitting on a tyre. That lib was in a front end accident, but the radiator still held its coolant. I would place my money on that being a good engine. If you were to get it you might have to swap the inlet manifolds over as the wiring on this EJ could be different. Any sensors that are missing could be scavenged from other EJ's in the yard if you can find any (there was an auto last time I was there), fit them and pay for the one engine. Or get a long block to keep costs down (you get block, and heads I believe).

Your biggest problem might be getting there as this was the Cambellfield PAP.

Best of luck with it! Not much you can do but fork out the cash

Cheers

Bennie

[AlpineRaven]

YEah... or could be leaky water pump seal or itself, worth checking before going next step - replacing heads or engine..
There was an EJ22 at campbellfield PAP but it needs parts on it as people has started taking bits off, there is another one at JollyRogers in Dandenong - i cant help with other wreckers that would have it.
Cheers
AP

[ScubyRoo]

A perfectly good engine for $250? I doubt it'd be complete...

I've never been to one of these pick a part joints, i know you need to bring your own tools, but do they have hydraulic jacks and engine stands available to aid in pulling out motors and the like?

If I call the PAP will they be able to tell me if the motor is still there? It's a fair hike from frankston and especially so as i'll have to rope in a mate to get me there, would be a waste of time and petrol if the engine was no longer there.

Quote from the subaru dealer had the costs of new heads at $190 for the pair, not sure about the water pump as i hadn't figured that bit out at the time.

Gut feeling is that the water pump gaskets/seals have gone, and when the pump failed the engine over heated... so for now i will inspect the pump and check the system for other leaks, then it'll be a matter of assessing what damage happened to the engine when it overheated.

Much food for thought....

[AlpineRaven]

A perfectly good engine for $250? I doubt it'd be complete...

I've never been to one of these pick a part joints, i know you need to bring your own tools, but do they have hydraulic jacks and engine stands available to aid in pulling out motors and the like?

If I call the PAP will they be able to tell me if the motor is still there? It's a fair hike from frankston and especially so as i'll have to rope in a mate to get me there, would be a waste of time and petrol if the engine was no longer there.

Quote from the subaru dealer had the costs of new heads at $190 for the pair, not sure about the water pump as i hadn't figured that bit out at the time.

Gut feeling is that the water pump gaskets/seals have gone, and when the pump failed the engine over heated... so for now i will inspect the pump and check the system for other leaks, then it'll be a matter of assessing what damage happened to the engine when it overheated.

Much food for thought....

You gotta be quick and lucky...
Last time I bought just the bare engine (block & heads) for $140 about 3 years ago (already had manifolds wiring etc etc) and engine is still running well now 480,000kms... anyway, these PAP joints wont help you "what they have in stock" because you have to drive there and check it out...

I'd check the water pump first if I were you to inspect, there is possibly the heads/gaskets are ok!? you never know, water pump is $125 genuine.
Cheers
AP

[El_Freddo]

Yeah, as AP said - you gotta be quick. There's another PAP at Kilsyth. You can check out the Pick a Part website to see if there's the model you're after in the yard. You'll also see the specials for the week on this page too. Two weeks ago they had a half price engine and gearbox day - this was when I got my gearbox... If the engine is not complete you make sure you're getting what you want PAP have crane jacks to lift engines etc. The cars are on "stands" off the ground so they're stable and you don't have to worry about jacking them up.

$190 for a set of genuine heads?! That sounds like a steal for once - unless its $190 each...

Engine problems are always fun - and a big learning curve if you're doing it yourself. Just make sure you have a workshop manual/mate who's good at pulling stuff apart and putting it back together

Cheers

Bennie

[bobbyjimmy]

I'd very highly doubt that is $190 for a complete head, let alone a set of heads.
Maybe a set of head bolts...