ok so the engine is in the car ready to go only need to set the dissy up(old one/had been ripped off, was missing plug that connected to back of motor).
ok so is there a trick to it since the dissy has been out?
i have wasted a day trying to sort it to no luck, i have spark and belts are on correctly. i just need to set up the dissy correctly as in which way to point things when dropping it in.
oh and its 87 3 plug ecu
another Q? ea82t timing
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Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
You need to rotate the crankshaft so that cylinder number 1 is at top dead centre of its compression stroke. the easiest way to do this is to take out the spark plug and place finger over hole. rotate crankshaft till you feel the air squeezing out, but stop before it starts sucking air back in. you can also check with a torch.
Now take off your dizzy cap mark on the side of the dizzy housing where the lead to cyl 1 locates. Now position the dizzy so that the centre cap points to the lead of cly no. 1
Now take off your dizzy cap mark on the side of the dizzy housing where the lead to cyl 1 locates. Now position the dizzy so that the centre cap points to the lead of cly no. 1
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
I hate that method, also whatever the factory manual suggests too.
My next time will be get it on TDC of #1 using the non dizzy side timing belt cover off so I can see the timing belt lining up marks of camwheel to back plastic plate, rotate from TDC to the timing mark - being 20 BTDC in my 3 plug ECU case TURBO. At this point the dizzy is roughly in place and at 20DBTDC i can slip a 25 thou feeler snug between the rotor ramp and metal pick up (technical terms to follow) It is to be interpreted as 25 thou before the two bits line up when motor towards TDC from the 20BTDC
follow????
the RHS cam sprocket drivers side
the dowel pin on the inside pressing is pointing roughly to eleven o'clock
the small hole further out points about to 10 o'clock
the big hole is right at 12 o'clock
when i turn towards 20 Dbtdc the cam wheel sprocket then lines up one tooth valley around from where the pointer was on TDC
No1 on dizzy cap is roughly closest to the firewall when i used the 25 thou feeler the blade twanged onto the magnetic post off dizzy on end closest to head and the 25 thou is what it had to travel before actually lining the two bits up. with that 25 thou gap, fly on 20 degrees BTDC of number one, that is my firing point.
I took pics but just one is set at 1.9MB, not used to new software yet, and bit too big to shove up the pipe to imageshack and back
lost another pic somewhere too
hope i no confuse you
maybe just do what book says and try from there. that is line up dot on dizzy drive gear with mark on housing, shove in on #1 TDC or timing mark?
Always worked with my Mazdas but Subies... I get it wrong somehow
My next time will be get it on TDC of #1 using the non dizzy side timing belt cover off so I can see the timing belt lining up marks of camwheel to back plastic plate, rotate from TDC to the timing mark - being 20 BTDC in my 3 plug ECU case TURBO. At this point the dizzy is roughly in place and at 20DBTDC i can slip a 25 thou feeler snug between the rotor ramp and metal pick up (technical terms to follow) It is to be interpreted as 25 thou before the two bits line up when motor towards TDC from the 20BTDC
follow????
the RHS cam sprocket drivers side
the dowel pin on the inside pressing is pointing roughly to eleven o'clock
the small hole further out points about to 10 o'clock
the big hole is right at 12 o'clock
when i turn towards 20 Dbtdc the cam wheel sprocket then lines up one tooth valley around from where the pointer was on TDC
No1 on dizzy cap is roughly closest to the firewall when i used the 25 thou feeler the blade twanged onto the magnetic post off dizzy on end closest to head and the 25 thou is what it had to travel before actually lining the two bits up. with that 25 thou gap, fly on 20 degrees BTDC of number one, that is my firing point.
I took pics but just one is set at 1.9MB, not used to new software yet, and bit too big to shove up the pipe to imageshack and back
lost another pic somewhere too
hope i no confuse you
maybe just do what book says and try from there. that is line up dot on dizzy drive gear with mark on housing, shove in on #1 TDC or timing mark?
Always worked with my Mazdas but Subies... I get it wrong somehow