Sleeving a EJ20 turbo

Get the most out of your Engine / Gearbox with these handy hints ...
Post Reply
User avatar
Morcs
Junior Member
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 10:52 pm
Location: Esperance

Sleeving a EJ20 turbo

Post by Morcs » Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:12 pm

Has any body heard of replacing the 2ltr (92.5mm)sleeves with 2.5s(100mm)

In an early EJ 20 (94) Thought these are a closed deck motor.

Looking at doing a rebuild or a 2nd hand motor thought if i rebuild it might see if i could push it out to 2.5l

Trying to weigh up which way is going to be the best way to go

As pistons and rods are the same price for both sizes.

Also going to put a Hi Flowed TD05h turbo on it.
So many optioins not enough time or money:confused:

User avatar
Outback bloke
Senior Member
Posts: 2103
Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Morayfield - Queensland
Contact:

Post by Outback bloke » Sun Jan 18, 2009 12:26 am

I looked in to it. It can be done but it is not recommended. Once the block is bored to fit the 2.5 sleeves it actually becomes very close to entering the water jackets.

You need to talk to Robin at Perfourmance Motorsports at http://www.pms.net.au/

He is the closest thing I know to a guru on doing this sort of thing. He is the person that fitted diesel sleaves to my 2.5NA and closed the deck on it.

User avatar
Gannon
Senior Member
Posts: 4580
Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW

Post by Gannon » Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:02 am

check out rslibertyclub.org
The guys over there will explain the best way to do it.

I think that an EJ22 with EJ25 crank give 2.35L which seems to be common over there
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------

User avatar
Outback bloke
Senior Member
Posts: 2103
Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Morayfield - Queensland
Contact:

Post by Outback bloke » Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:16 am

No offense but most of the guys over there buy their motors. They aren't actually the ones that build them. They simply buy what others have had built. Sure talk to them and get their opinion on how they run and what not.

PMS on the other hand has built all these sorts of motors and experimented with different combos. 1 bloke lots of motors sort of gives you the best idea on what is good and what is shit.

User avatar
AndrewT
Senior Member
Posts: 4777
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: WA
Contact:

Post by AndrewT » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:19 am

Yeah be careful of misinformation on there. However there are a few genuine gurus there too. Oversteer is a member, he used to frequent this forum too. He recently ran an 11.2 quarter mile in his Legacy on the EJ22 based motor he built himself. I think it's one of the fastest automatic libs in Australia now. Here are the specs for his motor;

2.2 stroked(with 2.5 crank) = 2.35 short motor
- High volume oil pump(JUN copy)
- ACL race bearings *special clearances*
- CP 2.35 pistons
- Argo rods
- Tomei baffle/block strengthening kit
- ARP 11mm stud kit

02 STI heads
- Ferrea valve train
- JUN 272 cams
- JUN cam wheels
- Genuine 22b head gaskets

Other bits
- Manifold, modified 02 sti, 64mm TB.
- GT3076R
- 44mm Tial
- Headers 4-1 un-equal
- Custom up-pipe&screamer
- Custom fuel system, Sard reg, Defi FP Gauge
- Motec M800

And the video of the run;
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zrinski/wags1125.wmv

User avatar
Morcs
Junior Member
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 10:52 pm
Location: Esperance

Post by Morcs » Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:26 am

I looked in to it. It can be done but it is not recommended. Once the block is bored to fit the 2.5 sleeves it actually becomes very close to entering the water jackets.

Thinking along those lines wanted to retain reliabilaty set of ported/cammed heads may be a better option.

Along with a set of forgies, good quality rods and stud kit.
So many optioins not enough time or money:confused:

Post Reply

Return to “Engine, Gearbox and Diff”