01 outback rpm sticks

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tambox
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01 outback rpm sticks

Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:18 pm

I have progressed ? from MY, L to an 01 outback
I have a problem with the engine management.
Its a manual, when i change gears it tends to hold the revs for for a couple of secs.
When the clutch is released (during gear change)it pulls the revs down.
When reved in neutral, it drops down to about 1100, then the ISC revs it to 1400, then it drops to idle.
Unplug the ISC and it drops down as normal.
Something is telling the ISC to keep the revs up.
The TPS has been checked and set.
I have been told this can occur with this model, and Subaru cannot fix it!!!
1. Does anybody have any ideas?
2. How can I get a wiring diagram for the engine management, with all the sensor specs?
Thanks Greg

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:22 pm

Is it an electronic throttle?

Most modern cars hold the revs and lower them slowly to reduce emissions caused by high manifold vacuum..
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:23 pm

No cable throttle.

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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:24 pm

This holds the revs for longer than normal, other ones of the same model drop much quicker.

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chubby37
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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:39 pm

just really have to learn to get use to it...i drove jordans gen3 and it does it too...did not really even notice it and i normally drive a series 1 lib
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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:44 pm

Yeah, but;
Due to the revs holding on each gear change the only thing that drops it is the clutch.
The car I just bought has a stuffed clutch, i can see why.
Plus it will not help economy.
I was chasing better economy, otherwise the turbo L's would have been ok.
As i have seen some do it and some not, I would like to sort it out.

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chubby37
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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:52 pm

you could try to replace the isc from another car and see if thats it..other then that i'm not sure as its been a point a lot have talked about with no real fix....you could also looking into re mapping the ECU...the ECU controls the isc so it sorta makes sense that if there was a bug in the programe it would just pass it on???
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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:16 pm

there is one other option that could work too....buy a gen3 2002/2003 ecu and just plug that in...it will reset and relearn the car within minutes and give you and updated ECU....as with most cars the fisrt in a new series can have problems...everything is new
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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:26 pm

The ECU seems like a good idea at the moment, but do they do it too?

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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:31 pm

if you mean hold the revs up then yes but its such a small thing you really dont even notice it....i never noticed it at all driving the gen3...it was not till jordan and i talked about your problem that he said his does it too....sunspares would have a gen3 2002/3 ECU i would think and they will post...
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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:39 pm

I should mention this detail as well.
If i have the accelerator flat to the floor, release it (at about 3000 rpm) and press the clutch in, the motor will actually rev up (500-800 rpm), the the clutch release loads it back down.
Is that common too?

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chubby37
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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:01 pm

if its an ECU issue and it could be then its all relative
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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:07 pm

Thats the path i was heading down, but i would'nt mind a set of factory wiring details and sensor specs, just check everything before buying a non guaranateed fix. I have meters and CROs to properly check everything and for personal satisfaction, i would like to do that.

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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:14 pm

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tambox
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Post by tambox » Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:19 pm

Thanks for that, am downloading, it says 2 hrs, good things come to those who wait?

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Post by chubby37 » Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:22 pm

not a problem....it should help....;-)
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Post by tambox » Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:29 pm

Thanks heaps for the help, especially the manual, its answered many questions.
As I mentioned earlier, the clutch was not good on the outback, so I casually (slowly) changed it yesterday, whilst checking out the condition of everything else.
The battery was disconnected for most of the day, when I went for a test drive the rpm drops smoothly and is no where near as "sticky" as it was.
In neutral it drops much more quickly and smoother.
When driving its much smoother and quicker to drop rpm.
The throttle cables were not touched.
Maybe the brain reset was all it needeed.
Thanks again. :)

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Post by bobbyjimmy » Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:55 am

I was going to suggest an ECU reset, do a search here or on OzLiberty.com tells you which wires to connect etc (the only part I don't follow is the "drive in 4th gear at 80", (thats for economy) where as I flog the p!ss out of the car (more performance).

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