1991 Subaru L engine just stopped and wonÂ´t start again

benster · Post by **benster** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:02 pm

Thanks all... nice to know I'm on the right track.

The haynes manual is a little bare in the way of instructions... doesn't really explain WHY you do something.

Parts are being delivered to my door tomorrow night... so the will be pulling down the front of the engine on the weekend.... fingures crossed.

I've put the Idler Pullies on the list too... may as well do them while I'm at it. Thanks Bennie. Love ya name

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:39 pm

Impotent...arrr IMPORTANT to undo the front pulley 22mm nut before going too far on strip. Leave battery connected, remove radiator bits to clear the way for a 450 or 600mm breaker bar to undo with starter motor assist - unkes you have one of those multiplier bar tools...

benster · Post by **benster** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:44 pm

Thats a little confusing steptoe

battery, radiator and right side timing cover have already been removed.

Thought I only had to take the starter moter out and throw in a screwdriver to undo the 22mm crank pully. Then the rest of the pull down should be reletavely easy. Shouldn't it? lol

benster · Post by **benster** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:46 pm

ahh.. i see what you're saying... turn the motor over to crack the pully nut.

Yeah... not a fan of that technique unless I have no other choice. Seen a mate stuff that up... won't get into it.. but it cost him a windscreen and a new crank :<

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:52 pm

well you got it, but subie gives us access to flywheel through timing hole too if that works for you, i also have a broken timing pointer due to same I believe;

From memory I shove long handle up against underside of the LHS chassis rail and snick,snick on starter. I see your point though

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:55 pm

the M6 [ 10mm head ] bolts that go into the brass threaded inserts cast into the plastic timing cover backs often just spin as the brass knurling has got away from the plastic. On reassembly i use little o rings to do the grip not just plain tight torque - for the next time/ fella on the good ones, longer bolts on the ones that are roo ted

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:59 pm

the reason behind the two positions is that on the side you fit the belt to first has the cam in no valve spring load to spin things off line. Get that snicked up and turn once in correct direction so not to trick tensioners and get the other side cam in same no load position

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:17 pm

Mini 998 main bearing shells do a great job stopping the crank turning - they fit nicely in the timing hole and they dont come out.

Hooroo

benster · Post by **benster** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:21 pm

what??? lol

NOt the case here... she's all fixed up as of today...

Pretty easy job too... thought it was more complicated than it was... loving this car more for doing it too.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:30 pm

benster wrote:what??? lol

NOt the case here... she's all fixed up as of today...

Pretty easy job too... thought it was more complicated than it was... loving this car more for doing it too.

Well enjoy it while it doesn't have any lifter tick. I can't stand the EA82's anymore - working on them mainly - but today my EA82 randomly started lifter ticking on all cylinders, I thought I was out of oil so put some in and a few minutes later it was gone. 10 minutes after that and it was back again. Its been driven all day today with the tick, even after sitting for an hour or so.

Bloody lifters!

End rant.

Bennie

benster · Post by **benster** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:32 pm

It has a rather loud lifter tick at the moment.

Was just looking up a fix for it now. Seems to be a few good fixes to try.