Weber conversion going well..BUT!!!!

scoobymine · Post by **scoobymine** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 4:24 pm

Hi guys,

Just fitting my new weber, with everything going fairly smoothly until i got to the accelerator cable. The weber has the 2nut tightening system for the cable to thread throug a hole, so it meant cutting off the lead mallet shaped end that fitted the old carb. Disaster. As expected the cable flared with no hope of threading it AND there was none left to re cut, an inch too short So it looks like a new cable, one that will thread the hole on the Weber. So comes my question, what the heck do i do. Are there any generic cables, or any without the lead end piece that i could use?
Cheers
Rick

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 5:53 pm

If you want to replace with the same cable, L series cables are exactly the same (parts dept at local dealer looked at me funny when I said 1981, their parts catalogue doesn't go back that far) I haven't done a weber conversion but where is this hole? if it's in a plate separate form the carbie for the 2 nuts to butt up against, could you file a slot just wide enough for the cable to slip through? Failing that there are plenty of members who have done this conversion who could give some clues.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:13 pm

To all those weber experts.
What are you meant to do for the accelerator cable?
I have heard a rumor that the weber acc is on the opposite side to the hitachi one. True?
Hopefully this will clear done things up once answered.

Cheers Cam

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:23 pm

1.Unbolt the throttle lever (where your little mallet shape once lived) from your hitachi carburetor.

2.unbolt the throttle lever on the weber, place in a parts packet in case the hitachi one won't fit (it will)

3.bolt the hitachi one to the weber. make a setup to hold the cable in place and work out where your return spring will live.

hope this helps somewhere on the board is a picture of this done, but of course I can't find it.

of all places I find it on the justy board?

http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index. ... hread=3896

TOONGA

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:23 pm

i didn't have any problems with mine i have the weber on my 87 L and now on my 91 L the only issue is sealing that water jacket that is exposed when you remove the standard carboy, i keep making gaskets but they get soggy and leak between the spacing plate and manifold...not to worried tho..

scoobymine · Post by **scoobymine** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:25 pm

Hi Brumby Kid and Silver Bullet,
The 2 nut hole thingy is seperate. I think if you filed a slot it would weaken it too much.
Silver bullet, the cable is on the same side as the Hitachi, just does'ny have the "wheel" with the cable slot. There is some Weber cables available in the UK, but the pedal end doesn't have the "mallet shaped" head

scoobymine · Post by **scoobymine** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:30 pm

Mitchhsj, i noted that little bugger and actually thought the same thing. Even when i took off the Hitachi, that section was a bit corroded. I put heaps of gaskit goo, and hope for the best. The plate covers it well. Donn't know why or where the water goes.

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:37 pm

yea i tried blocking it off but needed flooding my motor 4 time before i worked out what is was.. u can't put anything on there [paste] because the fuel will break it down and will leak in no time just got to get some gasket paper and make one up. it comes up and in the little pipe on the passenger side and goes out down the back being part of the cooling system it has something to do with cold starts or cooling for the carb or somthing... bit of a pain.. but be car full with that gasket goo you might get caught out..

scoobymine · Post by **scoobymine** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:45 pm

Toonga, i'll give it a go. Need a new cable anyway. Who sells them?

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:12 pm

Frog sells them

(Subaru) The wreckers sell them, I have a second hand one somewhere you can have for the cost of postage.

I have even seen them for sale in parts stores, mind you there were way more wagons and sedans on the road then

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:27 pm

New genuine about $39 or, if you were to order from the US they actually come a bit longer for LHD versions - gives you more cable for accidents

I might ask again in this weber post : coz not think i had an answer
how do you get at the jets in a weber 32/36 DGV

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 2:40 pm

That hole at the base of the manifold neck I tok Steptoes advice when removing my custom manifold and tapped a 12mm thread in it and made up a frub screw with a little thread locak. No more water comes out. Problem solved.

As to accelerator cable too short by an inch try buying 3/32 copper tube from a hobby shop and soldering/crimping it on the cable.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 5:40 pm

Tweety wrote:That hole at the base of the manifold neck I tok Steptoes advice when removing my custom manifold and tapped a 12mm thread in it and made up a frub screw with a little thread locak. No more water comes out. Problem solved.

As to accelerator cable too short by an inch try buying 3/32 copper tube from a hobby shop and soldering/crimping it on the cable.

This cable isn't the easiest to solder to, I'm not sure what it's made of but the solder doesn't want to stick most of the time.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:39 am

I used to make up or repair handbrake cables on my pushies, so instead of chewing out the cast alloy blob on the end I'd just resolder the cable in place on a mild steel rod with 1mm hole I drilled in them. Was surprised just how strong they were taking handbrake force. Maybe 80's pushbike cable will solder better ?
Er, maybe that was 70's cable